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Thread: chaparral model 1876 in 45-60 help needed

  1. #1
    Boolit Master




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    chaparral model 1876 in 45-60 help needed

    I've got an 1876 in 45-60. Shoots very well with the 30" barrel. I'm having problems with light firing pin strikes. Like out of 30 rds shot yesterday 15 were light strikes. Cocked back the hammer and it'll go off the 2nd time. Can someone point me in the direction of instructions on how to take these rifles apart so I can take a look on what's going on with the firing pin. Thanks for any help.

  2. #2
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    First, make sure your primers are seated at least .004" below flush. If they aren't, that's the problem. The anvil has to be seated against the primer pellet and firmly against the bottom of the primer pocket. If not, then the first firing pin strike is seating the primer the rest of the way, and the second strike is setting it off.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred
    After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master




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    No Fred I've already thought and tried that from the last range session with this rifle. Only conclusion I can come to without taking it apart is the firing pin spring is weak or there's a rough spot preventing the firing pin from fully extending out. Only way to know is to tear it apart and look it over

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    The basic M1876 action is relatively simple to take apart. Now the caveat- a current repro may have some "safety" stuff in it that I have no experience with. The only experience I have is with original Win M1876s.

    You can look at the schematics of an M1876 and compare to what you have in hand to see about any differences of design.

    If I had a '76 that was balking like you are talking about, I'd look at hammer interference with the frame, interference with some part of the sear, rough spot on the cross pin/firing pin stop recess, broken firing pin, weak mainspring…. things like that. If it were mine, I'd take it apart and look at those things.

    There are probably those out there with an Italian '76 who have seen problems as you describe and could better take a better guess.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master




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    Quote Originally Posted by fouronesix View Post
    The basic M1876 action is relatively simple to take apart. Now the caveat- a current repro may have some "safety" stuff in it that I have no experience with. The only experience I have is with original Win M1876s.

    You can look at the schematics of an M1876 and compare to what you have in hand to see about any differences of design.

    If I had a '76 that was balking like you are talking about, I'd look at hammer interference with the frame, interference with some part of the sear, rough spot on the cross pin/firing pin stop recess, broken firing pin, weak mainspring…. things like that. If it were mine, I'd take it apart and look at those things.

    There are probably those out there with an Italian '76 who have seen problems as you describe and could better take a better guess.
    I found out this morning after rewording my Google search that the 76s are the same as the 73s just bigger on the toggles ect. So I can take it apart using the directions for the 73s. I'd really like to get this fixed as this 45-60 is a pleasure to shoot. .. just gets irritating having to recock the hammer so many times

  6. #6
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    Yes, the 76 is just a scaled-up 73. They are relatively easy to take apart and put back together. There is a cross pin in the bolt that fits in a slot in the side of the firing pin. Once you have the bolt out, simply punch out that cross pin, then the firing pin will come out for inspection. ----That is assuming the design of yours is basically the same as an original.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master




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    Quote Originally Posted by fouronesix View Post
    Yes, the 76 is just a scaled-up 73. They are relatively easy to take apart and put back together. There is a cross pin in the bolt that fits in a slot in the side of the firing pin. Once you have the bolt out, simply punch out that cross pin, then the firing pin will come out for inspection. ----That is assuming the design of yours is basically the same as an original.
    I'm assuming this Chaparral is the same. Only difference I know of is I bought this one 2 yrs ago with a 30" barrel. They were back then I was told stopping production of the 30" barrel models

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check