The knife prices online are rediculous there only selling point is bushcraft in there name not there functionality.
The knife prices online are rediculous there only selling point is bushcraft in there name not there functionality.
Like what? There are all kinds of options out there from sub $20 to high end customs.
I agree completely! There are a lot of makers that have sprung up because of bushcraft's popularity, and some of the big boys have jumped on the wagon as well. I was ate-up with the bushcraft craze for a couple years, but have since recovered. I think most anyone could buy a quality American blade from someone like Buck or Kerhsaw (or a vintage Schrade) for under $100 and have enough knife for 3 generations of use. I'm not saying some of the high-end stuff isn't of good quality, but it's not worth what they're asking, that's for darn sure...
That was usually the first question I would ask a customer that wanted a custom knife made, "What do you intend to use the knife for once you get it"? Most of the customers actually had no answer for me with that question.Robert
In a word, Opinel!
Inexpensive, sharp as heck from the factory, carbon steel, easy to keep sharp. Safe to use, convenient and at 10-15$ each reasonably priced.
I drill a small hole in mine for a lanyard.
I have a #10 setup on a carabiner with a firesteel for camping.
A #8 on a carabiner for daily use.
Most people IMO who spend 200$ and up on a knife really don't even know what they want it to do, other than look cool.
I do also have an old old Remington Hammersmith that I modified heavily into what I consider a first class skinning knife.
Opinel
Mora
if you need heft and beefy knife, USMC KaBar fighting knife.
all under a hundred, opinel and moras can be found for under 20.
Or make your own.
Be safe
When you read the fine print you get an education
when you ignore the fine print you get experience
If you want, you want, and that is fine.
I accept that I am a knife freak, I like cool knives, I adore assisted opening, most of which however have the pocket clip on the wrong end.
But I am also a CHEAP knife freak. It would take something really special get me over 30$.
I recently bought a sort of mini scimitar from a pawn shop. Chinese chromed steel, sheath and grip had a Indian/ mid east feel. Saber type grip with a single bar protecting the knuckles. Now I have zero practical use for this. But.
A at 25$ the price was right
B Chrome plated blade, so it will last for years with zero upkeep.
C It was SHARP.
D It has a blade some 10" long so not what I would call useful.
E But it looked COOL, had a little chain to hang it on your side.
I go KACHING Cool toy, I can afford it, no one else is likely to have one just like it. Sold.
Opinel's, Mora's, inexepensive assisted Open knives with the pocket clip on the opposite end. Yeah, good stuff, worth the money.
150$ bushcraft knife? LOL I laugh and walk away. The guy who buys that is looking for status. Chances are will not have a clue on how to keep it sharp.
My cheap knives are all sharp. I prefer just short of shaving sharp as I have found they are much more durable. A shaving sharp blade needs constant attention to keep it that way if it is doing work. Cheap blades get a steel and strop when the job is done and I have time and are ready for the next job. That is what I think, what suits me, YOUR MILEAGE MAY DIFFER. And that is ok, tis a wide world with room for all of us.
Yepper! 10" chrome blade...great for edc! Just kidding but we like what we like.
I buy very few knives and still carry a Syperdco from the early 1990's. My criteria is mostly the quality of the steel used in the blade. Anyone can make a sharp knife but the real key is a knife that will stay sharp.
Knives are just tools to me and they can be very handy devices but to be honest, most of the knives that occupy tool boxes, go bags and other places - aren't terribly expensive.
I have an old Case knife on my bench but it sits next to an Italian sailor's knife that probably cost less than $10 and they are equally as useful to me.
I have spent more for kitchen knives (I prefer good German steel) than I ever spent for a working knife. In the end, it's just a tool.
Japanese and German steel will get my money on occasion but a good cheap "working" knife has some real value too.
Like reading glasses, I have many inexpensive ones strategically placed for easy access in locations most likely to be used/needed.
I find Kershaws to be of good value and quality.
There's a knife at every price point. Seems like most designs eventually trickle down. Few years ago the Emerson Wave design was 300 plus, now Kershaw has the rights and you can buy one for 20 bucks.
I recently bought a knife I said I had zero interest in... a Havalon Knife with scalpel removable blades.
last fall I helped a friend of a friend skin and butcher a couple deer. He was a newer hunter and had never fully processed a animal before. He had one and I used it a bit... Bought one for myself after Christmas. 35$ with dozen blades and sheath. Ill keep it ion my pack as a second/back up. its not a dureable knife, but scalpel sharp and so light. I was impressed.
CW
CW
NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.
Come visit my RUMBLE & uTube page's !!
https://www.RUMBLE.com/user/Cwlongshot
https://youtube.com/channel/UCBOIIvlk30qD5a7xVLfmyfw
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |