KLR:
Can you expand a bit on "take light cuts"? How small are you talking about here?
I am wondering how many passes was required to get to depth.
Thanks!
Pat
KLR:
Can you expand a bit on "take light cuts"? How small are you talking about here?
I am wondering how many passes was required to get to depth.
Thanks!
Pat
Great. Thanks!
Pat
Klr thank you for sharing! I may finally get a 32 win spec mold. I will do this to their round nose 324-175-1r.
Great job
The road less traveled ain't for the faint of heart
+1 for what Djones just said. All of my previous mold modifications involved shortening the cavities from the base end. Now that this example of shortening the forward end of the cavity has appeared, I be taking a 2nd or 3rd look at the molds now in hand. Thanks for sharing.
Thin Man
“Men occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing ever happened."
― Winston S. Churchill
Thanks for the comments, guys. Post up if you try this; I'd enjoy seeing pics and hearing about your results.
Update: Last night I tried out the adjustable "beagling" feature and opened my mold .003. I closed it on a .003 piece of tape and then slid one bottom bar over to close the gap at the nose. I cast few bullets, lubed, sized, and loaded them with the same load and at the same depth as before. The nose now lightly engraves in the rifling as the round is chambered and the body is .001 over the groove size.
I shot 4 tonight after work. Temps in the mid 30s and no wind. Distance is 55 yds, 1950fps, Winchester 94. Group size was .85". First two overlapping. I think this will work. Now to get rid of the .001" mismatch in the two halves.
BTW, it takes a lot of hand fitting, but you can do this mod to just one cavity.
I used this method to shorten a wadcutter mold. An end mill is run into the bottom of the mold to the depth you want, and a plug made from simple round stock is screwed in. You don't really even have to center the plug, as long as it's bigger than the cavity. I used a mill, but I bet it could be done with a drill press.
KLR, I am very impressed with the results from your modification, it's a great idea, and well done.
" Associate with men of good quality, if you esteem your own reputation: for it is better to be alone than in bad company. " George Washington
dubber123 - I originally tried your approach but I thought that the soft aluminum mold would round off as it rode over the steel plug. There is a lot of slop in a Lee mold.
JWFilips - The circle bull is about .4" id and .7" od across. I'm shooting 28.5gr of 3031. I haven't run these over the chronograph, but I did with the original bullet and same charge last weekend. The original bullet weighed 175gr and these weigh 163gr so I would imagine that they are marginally faster.
I put a plug like that in the mold pictured above where I modified only one cavity. My mold had so much slop that I had to file a taper on the edge of the plug so that the mold would ride up and on to the alignment pins. The sharp edges of the bullet nose were the first thing to make contact and I could see that soft aluminum riding on steel would quickly wear the nose. But it would be good for alignment. That's the next thing I'm going to tackle. I have a few ideas brewing.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |