Cleaning the 357 cylinder after an afternoon of 38 specials.

[tazman]

I spent quite a bit of time cleaning the cylinder of my 357 after an extended range trip with a bunch of 38 special loads. I put about 250-300(I wasn't counting) rounds of 38 special loaded with 158gr SWC and 3.5gr of Bullseye through the revolver. The powder fouling between the 38 case mouth and the 357 cylinder throat had built up so much a 357 cartridge would no way go in.

I started cleaning the cylinder using Hoppes9 and a copper brush. I wet patched the cylinder with a soaked patch and left it set for about 20 minutes to loosen the fouling before using the brush in the chambers. I repeated this cycle 5 times before the fouling was cleaned out enough I could easily drop a 357 cartridge into every chamber of the cylinder.

Is there a cleaner/solvent that works better on powder fouling than Hoppes9?

Or I should just buy a 38 special and not have to worry about this?

[LUCKYDAWG13]

Or I should just buy a 38 special and not have to worry about this?


or just load 357 at a reduced load is what i would do

[ReloaderFred]

You can use the Lewis Lead Remover, or just chuck a bronze brush in a cordless drill and wrap a few strands of stainless steel wool around the brush and run it into each chamber. It only takes a few minutes to get them clean again. Just make sure you use real stainless steel wool, not some of the Chinese pretend stainless steel wool.

My wife and I shoot thousands of rounds of .38 Special through our .357 revolvers for SASS matches, so I clean a lot of cylinders. I prefer the brush and drill method myself, but either will work.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[DougGuy]

That stuff is hard as glass. I have used the small cup type wire brush in a dremel tool that works GREAT for getting the chamfers cleaned up of carbon. It's fast, and it doesn't scratch anything since you are using the side of the brush, doesn't take the bluing off.

[35remington]

Better is a real soak in a metal coffee can full of gas such that the fouling in the cylinder stays submerged. A large enough brass brush to clean the cylinders as the usual .38 caliber is undersized for the chamber......build it up with some steel wool of fine grade.

Done.

[bhn22]

I use Eds Red for most carbon removal. I suppose Kroil might have possibilities too. I keep stainless chamber brushes around for this sort of thing, but I normally load everything in 357 mag cases and adjust the lighter loads upward a mite to keep velocities where I want them.

[texassako]

I cleaned one up recently after shooting some .38's. Foaming bore cleaner works best for me since it sticks to all sides, but that stubborn carbon ring is why I have finally accumulated enough 357 brass to stop shooting 38 specials.

[Went2kck]

I spent quite a bit of time cleaning the cylinder of my 357 after an extended range trip with a bunch of 38 special loads. I put about 250-300(I wasn't counting) rounds of 38 special loaded with 158gr SWC and 3.5gr of Bullseye through the revolver. The powder fouling between the 38 case mouth and the 357 cylinder throat had built up so much a 357 cartridge would no way go in.

I started cleaning the cylinder using Hoppes9 and a copper brush. I wet patched the cylinder with a soaked patch and left it set for about 20 minutes to loosen the fouling before using the brush in the chambers. I repeated this cycle 5 times before the fouling was cleaned out enough I could easily drop a 357 cartridge into every chamber of the cylinder.

Is there a cleaner/solvent that works better on powder fouling than Hoppes9?

Or I should just buy a 38 special and not have to worry about this?

I use Mpro-7 works really good for carbon fouling. Also seams to not smell as bad as Hoppes. Wife complains about hopes but never said anything about M pro-7. I think it is water based so it should be good for corrosive stuff to.

[Murphy]

After decades of living with the same dilema (crud ring removal where the 38 Spec cases ends), I have found a very simple way of dealing with it.

If you have the time during your shooting session with 38's in a 357 revolver, purchase a good .40 caliber bore brush for your range box. Carry a straight length of cleaning the rod the .40 Caliber brush fits and simply run it a few passes through each cylinder after every 24-30 rounds. Works fine for me.

Best of luck,

Murphy

[tazman]

I have 3-4 thousand rounds of 38 brass and maybe 250 pieces of 357mag. The range where I shoot gets really nervous if some one is using mag cases on the range regardless of how they are loaded. They have a sign on the wall saying "absolutely no magnum loads allowed". I prefer not to worry them or get in an argument about loads.
Almost all my shooting is trying to clean up my form and trigger control hence the 38 special loads.

If I can get a gun cleaner or cleaning system that takes care of the carbon buildup easily, I will stick with the 357. Otherwise I may just get another revolver in 38 special.

Looks like I have a few suggestions to work with.
Thanks

[cheese1566]

I like to use a tight patch covered in jb bore paste soaked with kroil.
For occasional tough jobs I have a stainless steel cylinder brush.

[Hammerhead]

I've had good luck chucking a .40 caliber bronze bore brush in a cordless drill wet with FP-10. FP-10 seems to be a terrific cleaner for carbon fouling (and a darn good cold weather lube).

[imashooter2]

Slightly bell .357 brass such that it is an interference fit in the cylinder. Press a case into each hole. The brass will scrape off the majority of the crud. Finish with a .40 pistol or .375 rifle brush. I like rifle brushes as there are more bristles in play on every stroke.

[chill45100]

I use Mpro-7 works really good for carbon fouling. Also seams to not smell as bad as Hoppes. Wife complains about hopes but never said anything about M pro-7. I think it is water based so it should be good for corrosive stuff to.

1+ on M-Pro 7. It was developed AS a carbon remover for military aircraft rotary cannons. Works well for me.
Chill45100

[Char-Gar]

The stuff is more than powder fouling for it also includes bullet lube. Ed's Red and a tight fiting brush every 50 to 100 rnds. keep it from being a problem.

[azrednek]

I've had good results using PB Blaster to remove the 38 ring in my 357's. At the range a few passes with a dry brush usually removes enough crud that stubborn 357's go all the way home.

[bruce drake]

A swipe with a ATF/10W30/hoppes soaked .40 cal bore brush on a pistol length rod every 40-50 shells is what I do. I also prefer to use 38 Special cases in my 357.

[Dale53]

I regularly shoot my S&W .357 Model 520 with .38 Special wadcutters. I have learned that running a chamber brush (plastic bristles) through the chambers WHILE THEY ARE STILL WARM will easily remove the crud. I do it about every forty rounds. When I am through, I do it again. It only takes a couple of minutes and they are "good to go". The key is to do it before the "stuff" sets up.

FWIW
Dale53

[Mk42gunner]

I've never really had a problem cleaning the cylinder of a .357 after shooting .38's through it; but that may be because I habitually used a GI .45 cal brush while cleaning .38's. Just for information, a .50 cal bore brush does nicely in a .45 cal bore or cylinder also.

Seems like I had hundreds of free brushes when I really started shooting center fire handguns.

Robert

[GP100man]

imashooter2 hit the nail on the head !!

I`ve cleaned many a 357mag revolver this way & it works dry or wet soaked.

A word on brushes , using a correctly fitting brush will work better as on oversized brushes the working part of the bristle gets layed down & then depends on the tightnes/sides of bristles of the brush to do the mechanicals of the cleaning.