I want to drill out some cases to use 209 shotshell primers. What drill size do I use for the body of the primer? Or, if I mike the primers, how many K less should I drill to get a nice interference fit?
I want to drill out some cases to use 209 shotshell primers. What drill size do I use for the body of the primer? Or, if I mike the primers, how many K less should I drill to get a nice interference fit?
i would think 2-3 thou do you have a shot gun shell to measure?
Jim, #209 primers are tapered from about .2410"-.2390". This would require a 6.10mm (.2402") drill. You would also have to counter bore the recess for the rim, a 5/16" drill would be about right. These sizes should be tested in a block of scrap.
Why would you want to use these primers? In high pressure loads, the battery cup will have a lot of surface area under pressure, and the difference in primer strength and large flash hole will make any reloading data useless.
BE VERY CAREFULL!!
Morgan
Primer pockets are held to very tight tolerances, like .0001”. You’re not going to get that kind of precision from a drill bit. You would be having a good day if you did that well with a chucking reamer in a proper fixture.
Yes, primer pockets for Berdan and Boxer primers are pretty accurate, but I doubt they are held to a tenth. Shotshell primers are another story. The pockets were originally punched in a brass covered cardboard base, and are now punched through a brass plated steel casing, into a molded plastic or rolled cardboard pocket. Both of these materials are quite resilient, which is why the battery cup is tapered. Don't know what Jim plans to do with them, and gave him an average dia. of the primer. He'd have to experiment not to crush the primer cake.
Morgan
i assume that you plan to use these for propelling a pellet or roundball for a plinking load. i have done this with mixed results. it worked ok, but i got leading without any lube on the pellet or roundball. also, the primer left a hard coating of crud on the bore that was hard to remove. i used a drill bit, a straight chucking reamer, and a end mill, all in a lathe. i have the tools at work that i used to make mine and will check on sizes tomorrow.
..............Hey Jim! Use a #4 centerdrill to drill through the anvil and pocket. The body of this size centerdrill will also form the ledge for the flange of the 209 primer. After they're all done with the centerdrill, go back and drill through with a letter 'B' drill bit. Preferably a good new sharp one that hasn't seen any steel. But if it has, go ahead as it'll work so long as it's sharp.
32 ga conversion for the Comblain using 209 primers
209 Shotshell primer conversion on the 8x56R Steyr, back when they were all Berdan. Never had any leakage around the battery cup, but as the loads got kind of intense the primer itself did begin to pierce. Pressures well above normal scattergun levels.
All these Mag-Tech 24 ga brass shotshells were similarly converted from Berdan to 209's.
...................Buckshot
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Buckshot, I agree with the #4 center drill (5/16") for the flange recess, and to center the hole, but won't the letter "B" drill (.2380") be too small? Can the battery cups be compressed this much when being seated? Just curious.
Morgan
A old Lyman reloading manual I have has a set up for 38 specials for indoor target pratiac. Drill out the primer pocket for the 209 primer then take a 1/4 inch sheet of bees wax to press into the mouth of the case. The primer provied enough UMP to drive the bees wax 50 feet.
No I never tried it, never had a 38 special.
Al
Garden View Apiaries, where the view is as sweet as the honey.
I've done it to shoot .25 pellets out of a .25-20 and a .25-35. Did not need precision for that use and just drilled the pockets through with a 1/4" bit and countersunk with a 3/8" bit.
Sometimes you gotta wonder if democracy is such a good idea.
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"The Republic can survive a Barack Obama, who is, after all, merely a fool. It is less likely to survive a multitude of fools such as those who made him their president."
Shrink the State End the Fed Balance the budget Make a profit Leave an inheritance
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now this is some new stuff to me .it is very interesting.tanks gents.
I have seen some 223 Rem cases converted to use shot shell primers to propel 22 cal pellets for target shooting.
I did it to a 223 case to use with pellets in my Contender 10" barrel. Works great. I only did one so shooting pellets is time consuming but fun.
Paul G.
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The end move in politics is always to pick up a gun.
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If you can get a 5/16" drill to drill a precise.3125" hole, you are one skilled workman and also have some mighty precision equipment! In the case above, you need a hole that is .240", and the recommended drill is .238. This should work out about right, a little "waller" of a few thousanths and a *slightly*lobed hole is what I have come to expect from good quality drill bits, used with good lube and proper technique. Cheaper bits, those sharpened off-center(think "hand resharpened"), and such tend to "waller" somewhat more, but for some things this isn't a problem, really. If you need a precise hole, have closer tolerances(under .001, for example), a reamer or preferably a boring bar are the only way to go. But, for some projects and some materials, a drilled hole is "good enough".Buckshot, I agree with the #4 center drill (5/16") for the flange recess, and to center the hole, but won't the letter "B" drill (.2380") be too small? Can the battery cups be compressed this much when being seated? Just curious.
Morgan
lathesmith
Bill Jordan, the famed US Border Patrol Agent, describes how to load indoor practice loads for .38 caliber. Should work for most any caliber center-fire, pistol, revolver, or single-shot.
If memory serves me -
Enlarge the primer hole somewhat.
Mark the casing so you will never ever mistakenly load it with powder!
Melt canning wax, pour about 1/4" deep into a shallow pan and allow it to cool (harden).
Press the cartridges into the wax, loading a waxlit.
Prime the case, load into your revolver, and fire away!
Over the years I have lost, misplaced, or given the book away. Titled "No second place winner". Terrific read. He used aspirin tablets as targets, if I remember correctly.
Bob
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Μολὼν λαβέ; approximate Classical Greek pronunciation [molɔ̀ːn labé], Modern Greek [moˈlon laˈve]), meaning "Come and take them" is a classical expression of defiance reportedly by King Leonidas in response to the Persian army's demand that the Spartans surrender their weapons at the Battle of Thermopylae.
Father Grand Caster watches over you my brother. Go now and pour yourself a hot one. May the Sacred Silver Stream be with you always
Proud former Shooters.Com Cast Bullet alumnus and plank owner.
"The Republic can survive a Barack Obama, who is, after all, merely a fool. It is less likely to survive a multitude of fools such as those who made him their president."
Shrink the State End the Fed Balance the budget Make a profit Leave an inheritance
See my video of me doing this for a Berdan primed .577-450 case. Yes, a B drill works well. Do not forget to chamfer the case head so the primer lip is slightly recessed. I seat them with a wood ram I made.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CcefFu04V8
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |