Why not?Originally Posted by 6bg6ga
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Why not?
They are toast in as little as a minute of being on, depending on brand. Plus it is going to take a lot of time for the heat to cross that air gap to the case.
I don't want an argument, I've never timed on out in the open to know for sure but I work on diesels everyday and would have thought that they were more durable than that.
Read up on induction heating and you will have your answer.
I lathe-turned a hollow copper bit, chamfered to approximately fit the case shoulder, for a large electric soldering iron.
Your large soldering iron may work but its not going to be as fast or accurate as induction heating. In induction heater acts to heat up the metal that is inserted inside the coil. This happens very fast. Placement inside the coil doesn't need to be accurate either and generally a coil that will do the job is in the neighborhood of 1" inside diameter.
I built an induction heater based on http://www.rmcybernetics.com/project...ion-heater.htm a couple of years ago. It is not the most robust setup but will work within its limitations, and water cooling is a must, even with a low duty cycle.
Then built a case feeder like shown on many youtube videos, used a couple of stepper motors, a gripper, and an arduino inside an old computer case to build a functional automated annealer. More of a proof of concept and playing with an arduino type thing than something production worthy. In other words, it works but is borderline Goldbergian and isn't going to win any beauty contests.
I defer to you sir.
As I pointed out in a prior post the coil is going to need to be cooled. This means a pump, coolant lines, and a radiator. Also the work coil needs to be redesigned. These improvements along with a decent power supply and a few circuit modifications WILL result in a workable induction heater.
The bottom of that website has a taking it further section with a cooled coil using a repurposed cpu cooler as a pump and radiator.
A cpu cooler isn't going to do it
I didn't think the coil got that hot...
I watched a video on Savage actions where they used induction to heat treat the receivers. FAST! only seconds to get the receiver glowing! Heavy coils and HIGH Power!
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on my Uncles IH tractor, I'd hit the glow plug and count to 300 before hitting the starter. On my 560, I'd count to 200. Never had one burn out.
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I'll bet the glow plug would take a long time to try to heat anything up.
Last edited by 6bg6ga; 02-01-2015 at 05:39 AM.
As a certified skinflint, I am always looking for the cheap way to do things. When my wife wasn't home, I tried using the flat glass-top stove to anneal cases. I just stand them upside down on the burner, turn it on high, and let the cases cook until there is some color change just to the base of the neck. It happens much faster than you would think, and takes some careful observation. One time, I had a batch of 30-06 cases I let go too long, and they changed to a bluish color, all the way to the head. Reluctantly, I consigned them to the scrap bin, since I couldn't trust them to have the strength they used to.
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timers are not that hard , but no point these Aduino http://www.amazon.com/UNO-Board-2012...o+uno+r3+board
open source controllers are so cheap and easy to program that my 11 year old son had his first program written in 30 minutes and allow for .001 second adjustment just by changing the value in your program , plug in the usb cable re-download and change is made you can also use sensors and automate it , it is all very low voltage but you just use it to control the relays that handle the real power , some delay in relays but much less than the variation limits you will need.
you find a coil that will heat the brass to the desired temp , figure out how long that takes automation isn't hard probably can even make it with a solenoid so that when the heat cycle is over it drops it into the water as part of the timed event
I did a lot of relay logic stuff back in school then learned Alan Bradly programmable logic controllers they were awesome you could do just about anything with them , obviously that was their point to control prossesses through electronic input output switching of industrial machines , but they were cost prohibitive , these UNO boards program a lot like an Alan Bradly PLC but are under 20 dollars you have limited input outputs but enough for simple tasks
my brother got me started on these he uses one to control his automatic beer bottle filler
An induction heating coil runs on AC power not DC. Most circuits floating around the net show converting higher amp DC to pulsed AC for the coil. 200Hz or so seems to be good.
Sticking a neck in a glo-plug is NOT induction heating. No different than sticking it in a toaster or putting in on top of a stove heating element. Any heating there is by radiant transfer, not induction.
A transformer is an induction device and, as you know, will not function on DC power. Same with the induction heating process. The alternating field created inside the coil excites the molecules of the brass (or whatever you stick in there) to a higher temp. You don't really even need a timer. Just a pushbutton for the oscillator circuit power and count 1001 -1002 - 1003 until you get an idea of how long to hold the button down for annealing required. Now that IS cheap!
What's next? Someone trying to heat brass necks with one of those induction cook tops? Not gonna work. Those require ferrous metals in the pan to trigger the circuit and then heat it up with AC induction power.
The small circuit and coil in the web link above is about the best I have seen for very little money. And the coil itself should not get overly hot if the thing is designed right. No need for fancy liquid cooling loops, radiators, and the such. After all, the whole idea is to put the EMF power into the thing you are heating, not the coil.
I have not tried brass annealing in a home-brew induction heating coil. Since brass is non-magnetic, some experimenting will probably be in order to make it work efficiently. But there are videos showing home-brew set-ups doing it quite well. Commercial induction soldering of non-ferrous metals works very well.
banger
The circuit that was posted relies on a transformer whos output is rectified and filtered to power it. To go past that is to confuse most here. The circuit inputs a single 15vdc supply and ground. The circuit also used a regulated 15 VDC supply for the fets.
Saw a video on Ruger handguns. Showed an induction heater that heated the barrel when they attached the front sights. That section of the barrel was red hot long enough for the solder/silver solder or brazing compound to melt and then the barrel and font sight are basically one piece. And looking at the breech end of the 10-22 rifles in some pics shows heat discolorization most likely done with an induction coil. Frank
shooters at our range have gone together as a group and purchased one of the manufactured units. It works very well and they are excited about the bullet pull consistency of the annealed necks contributing to much better accuracy.
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