Least corrosive BP substitute?

[marshall623]

I don't know about the least , but the worst was lost when that part of the plant that made it blew up ( from what I was told ) and that was Goex Clear Shot in the white can . That stuff is garbage soaks up moisture like a sponge , looks like Pyro fouling unless you leave it overnight then things will grow in the barrel . I still have a 1/2 can used for plinking and immediate cleaning , that's because it doesn't shoot bad at all with Maxi balls or patched RB's. I have a new can of Pyro which was free , so was the clear shot . I've shot 1 box of T7 pellets they shot great , but drew moister and where no good after a couple of years in the gun cabinet . It left the crud ring and like some said and damp patch and chip at it , and its gone in a few strokes . ( 1 solid stroke with a tight fitting patch will make it not fun for a little bit . I would try T7 again but only in loose powder . Thats my $0.02

[Motor]

I use 777 in my inline's. Yeah, it leaves a crud ring that you have to use a damp patch with and "exotic" cleaning fluid... i.e. water or spit about every 3-5 rounds. I keep reading about how awful it is, but it is nowhere near as dirty as holy black nor pyro. It isn't hard to clean either...a wet patch worked up and down as you go takes it out in about 20 seconds. I have not used blackhorn 209, it may work good but not good enough at twice the price of 777...around here they want $40+ for 10 oz. of the stuff.

I quoted this post because I'm lazy and this is what I would have posted anyway.

Rick is dead on !!!!

I still use Pyrodex too. It's great for inexpensive practice shootin. Even better when you find it on clearance.

BTW: Most of the 777 I have I got on clearance too. I just love those after season sales.

OP, I use Lee A-Lox with my 250gr REAL. I know some say it dosen't do well in muzzleloaders but maybe that's with black powder. I've had good results with it but the loads I use it for do not exceed 70gr Pyrodex RS in 50cal. rifle.

Motor

[lobogunleather]

My only experience with BP firearms has been with a TC Hawken .50 about 35 years ago, followed by some antique guns that I have added to my collection. I am still shooting these:

1. Colt 1860 Army revolver, mfg'd 1862, bore about 50% with some pitting.
2. Remington New Army revolver, mfg'd 1863, bore about 60% with some pitting.
3. Remington New Army revolver, mfg'd 1864, bore about 50% with some pitting.
4. Pennsylvania-style half-stock percussion rifle, Golcher lock, .41 caliber, 29" barrel (octagon to round), bore about 80% with very minor visible decay.

I have always tried to stick with good black powder in Fffg granulation for all of these. Starting about 5 years ago I have found it next to impossible to find black powder anywhere, at any price, leading me to try the Pyrodex P. As advertised, charges thrown by volume run just about 10% below BP in actual weight. 25-grain measure for the revolvers throws 22 grains. 40-grain measure for the rifle throws 35 grains. Performs just as I would expect from Fffg. Reliable ignition, complete burn, and the usual build up of residue and fouling (revolvers can usually provide 40 or 50 shots before fouling starts to affect functioning, rifle becomes difficult to seat a patched ball after about 12 shots). I use no lubricant for the revolver balls. Rifle patches are lubed with vegetable oil (cooking oil, right out of the bottle in the kitchen) which does a good job of keeping bore fouling soft and easy to clean up.

These are all antiques with some historical significance, so I am careful about maintaining and preserving them. My cleaning routine is done in two parts. First, immediately after use at the range or in the field, I remove the nipples then swab the bore, chambers, etc, with a dripping-wet patch of GI surplus bore cleaner (1960's vintage, bought years ago for $1 per quart) and let the piece sit for 15 minutes or so. Then 5 or 6 clean dry patches to remove the solvent and crud, pipe cleaners for the nipple ports and other recesses. Wipe down with an oily rag. Then the piece can be cased and taken home. I have found that this allows a day or two easily before a thorough disassembly and traditional soap and boiling water cleaning.

US GI ammunition continued using corrosive primers well into the 1960's, and even longer in the larger calibers like .50 BMG. The US military has probably spent more time and effort in dealing with firearms maintenance and effective cleaning products than all the commercial sources combined. The GI bore cleaning solutions were specifically developed for good maintenance under field conditions, including removal of corrosive residue and preserving exposed steel parts.

The surplus GI bore cleaner stinks almost as badly as black powder smoke and fouling. But I will continue to rely on the stuff to maintain my prized antique guns, and I'm sure it will do just as well with modern BP guns.