You never know what most guys are sizing with their recommendations.
You can lube straight case with almost anything and make it work.
Forming cases may require multiple dies and a good lube to get there.
You never know what most guys are sizing with their recommendations.
You can lube straight case with almost anything and make it work.
Forming cases may require multiple dies and a good lube to get there.
EDG
Another Bag Balm user here.
http://www.bagbalm.com/
Bag Balm is a Hydroxy Quinoline Sulfate 0.3% (an antiseptic), in a Petrolatum Lanolin base.
- Bullwolf
Hornady Unique for rifle brass. works fine for reforming 300 aac from 223.
Lee lube for tumble lubing pistol brass that is push through sized. (push .40 brass through a FDC or cut off sizing die, depending on if I'm loading cast boolits or FMJs) it dries best and doesn't attract dirt. I DON'T wash it off, just lube, size and then load.
I just use rcbs with the lube pad. Does the job for me.
I used to think that as well and I'm a big fan of Imperial. A friend brought his .500 S&W brass and dies to me to diagnose a problem. I sized a few, with substantial effort, using Imperial. I tried some pure lanolin straight from the bottle rubbed on like the Imperial. It was unbelievable how much less effort was required to size the big cases with lanolin. YMMV.
David
Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris
Never tried Bag Balm for sizing, but I have a couple of bandaids on me right now with Bag Balm. Been using it/had it used on me better than 60 years that I can remember (and more I can't remember).
For sizing masses of cases I use Frankfort or Hornady One Shot sprays. Line them up in a loading block 50 at a time, even 7.62 haven't been a problem for the Lee Classic Cast (I must be begging for my first stuck case since 1967 boasting about that). Imperial for everything else. I'd give Mink Oil a shot (have it for my boots), but I need to use the Imperial I just started, which might be passed on to one of the sons or grandsons not quite finished.
Ed
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Last edited by WRideout; 07-04-2015 at 06:41 AM. Reason: grammar
What doesn't kill you makes you stronger - or else it gives you a bad rash.
Venison is free-range, organic, non-GMO and gluten-free
I started using vaseline jelly for case lube about 15 years ago, it works great and I have never needed to try anything else because it worked so well.
A small jar lasts forever, a little dab on thumb and fore finger is all it takes, it also cleans cases nicely when you wipe the stuff off.
To make sure I have it all off, I take a rag with a bit of alcohol to remove the rest of the lube residue before chambering and shooting.
The 45-70, the only Government I trust.
The Gospel of speed is accuracy.
Use Imperial for everything unless it's going on the Dillon then I use Dillon spray. I switched to Imperial when forming 6.5-06 cases and the old RCBS stuff was giving me fits. Haven't looked back and form 40-65 cases from 45-70 was a cinch.
Curt
though i've tried a bunch over the years, haven't found a case lube better than good ol' imperial wax.
Hornady "one-shot" spray for resizing. Lasts a long time
I like Hornady one shot for normal reloading and imperial sizing die wax for forming cases
OK, I'll chime in but I'm going WAY off the norm...
I've used the commercial stuff, made some of my own, etc etc... but then I found Royal Case and Die Lube from sharpshootr.com (http://www.sharpshootr.com/royal-case-die-lube/) and I am hooked... This is the slipperiest, most reliable stuff I've ever used...
I like to clean my bottleneck brass after I form it, so I give it about 5 minutes in hot water and a cheap degreaser I buy from a Box Store, then rinse a couple times and tumble dry for an hour... My brass is beautiful and I never worry about a stuck case...
And, as always, a little dab'l do ya....
Not sure if it is the best lube but I am using 50-50 mix of castor oil and red turkey oil (AKA sulphonated castor oil). I made up the mixture based on the idea that the castor oil provides the lubricant while the red turkey oil is a detergent/dispersant that allows me to wash it off the cases with water.
The mixture does separate back to its raw ingredients so has to be made up just before you use it. It also semes to form a gum/wax over time in air but this still works as a lubricant.
Ran out of my RCBS STP and put a can of Bag Balm on the next Vermont Country Store order. Using it now to up-neck 8x57 to 9.3x57.
I have, for years, used graphite in a medicine bottle of shot to lube the inside of necks. Found out it doesn't work at all with new brass. Now using a q-tip and Bag Balm.
Wayne the Shrink
There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!
I use a homemade spray lube that's the equal to Dillon's spray lube.
16:1 liquid lanolin and 99% alcohol.
Case forming, I get out the Imperial.
Lanolin/alcohol mixture for sizing and case forming. Don't lube the inside of case necks as I replaced the steel expanders with carbide. 223,300 Blk,7.62x39 and 308 just glide with the carbide expander.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |