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Thread: Arisaka

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy AZ-JIM's Avatar
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    Arisaka

    1) What is the best boolit design and weight typically for the 6.5x 50 Japanese Arisaka?
    2) What are some of your favorite loads for this round?
    Thanks for the input

    az-jim
    "You believe these people exist to provide you with position, I believe your position exists to provide these people with FREEDOM"

    FREEEEEEEEDOMM-William Wallace

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
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    Loverin style 266455 cast of linotype or 80/20 linotype/lead, WQ'd and left "as cast". GCs just seated and crimped on with no sizing to bullet; left at .267+. TL'd with straight LLA and loaded over 8 - 10 gr Unique.

    Larry Gibson

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    I know its not cast but I love hornadys 174 gr fmj with H-4895

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I have one of these also and bought a custom mold for it. It is back at the shop now as it was very difficult to get the gas check on the base and it dropped .003" oversized.
    I bought an RCBS 140gr Sillouete mold for my 6.5-06 and 6.5TCU and may coat it with /hi-Tek and try it in my Arisaka.
    I'll post after trying this.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

    TCLouis's Avatar
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    Slug your bore first, lots of variation in bore diameter in the Arisakas.
    Amendments
    The Second there to protect the First!

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy AZ-JIM's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies so far. I have picked up some bits and pieces from doing a forum search. I know the bores can run big, and some chambers can be tough on brass because of being oversize or out of round also. The tube on this particular piece looks pretty clean which is nice. I have seen some that were pitted pretty bad likely from corosive primers and then lack of cleaning.

    What is the best way to aquire brass? Privi from Graffs, make your own? I have read old Norma should be avoided, thier new stuff is ok but expensive.

    Keep the replies coming.....


    az-jim
    "You believe these people exist to provide you with position, I believe your position exists to provide these people with FREEDOM"

    FREEEEEEEEDOMM-William Wallace

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy histed's Avatar
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    From experience, making your own brass for this caliber is a daunting proposition. Watch the sale portion of the forum here (and any others you are on), put a WTB ad in the appropriate section, haunt the military gun shows in your area, and keep checking places like Midway, Graf... There's brass out there, just not so common as hen's teeth.
    All government without the consent of the governed is the very definition of slavery - Jonathan Swift
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  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    Huntington's have them listed. In stock?
    http://www.huntingtons.com/store/pro...cat=123&page=1

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
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    I use a NOE 269 mold. Haven't had a chance to shoot these but they look good. Slugged my bore it came out at .269-.270. Mold drops out at .270. Plan to just seat and size check but not the boolit.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
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    I also have the NOE 269-145-FN but just have not gotten around to trying it in the 6.5 Jap. Limited experience in the Swede......just too many other irons in the fire right now.

    Larry Gibson

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I bought brass from Graf & Son's. I have it loaded with Cream of Wheat to fire form as it is a little short from the base to the shoulder for my rifle.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master madsenshooter's Avatar
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    I make my own brass from .303 British, it isn't the hardest thing in the world to do. Wasn't an expensive proposition either. You'll need: A 308 sizing die body, a 7/08 sizing die body, and a 6.5 Jap set. I turn the rim down on the .303 to .480, after I've formed the brass. I use the .303 shellholder for forming. Later resizing can be done using a 41 magnum shellholder that has had the inside opened up a tad. You'll also need a way to trim the length of the brass. Don't worry a whole lot if you move the shoulder back too much, that nice thick rim is now your headspace, the case will fireform. Someday I'm going to find some of that Norma ammo with the case dimensions more like formed .303! Pic is from their website, after I wrote them suggesting they do something about the dimensions. With PRVI brass, I don't have to turn the necks of the formed brass, not even with .270 bullets.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 6,5japari.gif  
    "If people let the government decide what foods they eat and what medicines they take, their bodies will soon be in as sorry a state as are the souls of those who live under tyranny."

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  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy AZ-JIM's Avatar
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    Well I'm a little closer....found a set of dies at the gun show today. I guess now I have an excuse to buy brass. Or start repurposing one caliber to another.

    az-jim
    "You believe these people exist to provide you with position, I believe your position exists to provide these people with FREEDOM"

    FREEEEEEEEDOMM-William Wallace

  14. #14
    Boolit Master




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    220 Swift cases can be reformed and cutdown to be used as 6.5Jap cases. The military cases used a 140gr Round Nose jacketed bullet. I like using the Lyman 266469 Loverin Gascheck design as it matches the weight and profile of the original cartridge.

    Bruce
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  15. #15
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by histed View Post
    From experience, making your own brass for this caliber is a daunting proposition. Watch the sale portion of the forum here (and any others you are on), put a WTB ad in the appropriate section, haunt the military gun shows in your area, and keep checking places like Midway, Graf... There's brass out there, just not so common as hen's teeth.
    I would say to watch the dealers.
    I found bran new production Norma ammo
    on a site in Canada
    about a month ago.
    there may be some shipping in.
    I bought 3 boxes at an insane price.
    then looking for components at LGS found they had 4 boxes.
    bought them all.
    I find out now ..my rifle keyholes at 20 yards

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy AZ-JIM's Avatar
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    Today I gave a shot at trying to repurpose brass for the 6.5. I have been continuously reading and researching the subject and decided it is time to try it. The closest thing I have on hand is 243 WIN. I tried .308 but it takes an awful lot to size it down when you get to the neck. 243's go through the 6.5 die much easier. I went as far as I could, with the decapping stem removed. Next step was to remove the "belt" at the head of the case, this was done by chucking in the lathe and turning to just above the rest of the case. I then ran it through the sizing die again, full length. Next reinstalled the decapping stem and went one more time to expand the neck. All the dimensions look good, the rim thickness is about .006-.007 under at .053 but the rest looks good and it chambers snug when the bolt is closed. The mouth OD is .289 with about .014 wall thickness. I think it is good to go, what say the rest of you? There are a few dimples in the shoulder, likely from excess lube but they should blow out upon the first firing.

    az-jimClick image for larger version. 

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    "You believe these people exist to provide you with position, I believe your position exists to provide these people with FREEDOM"

    FREEEEEEEEDOMM-William Wallace

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    I use the RCBS 140gn `Silhouette` bullet, beagled to .268 in my type 38 Arisaka with some success.
    I have also used a Lee `Cruise Missile` bullet, cut down to 150gn.

    As previously mentioned, always best to slug the bore before making a bullet choice.

    ukrifleman

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    220 Swift is easy to form 6.5 Jap brass Now find 220 Swift ammo !

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy AZ-JIM's Avatar
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    Can any of you who use the Privi or Norma brass by chance, give me the H2O volume of the brass? I would like to compare it to the ones I made from .243's. I am going to guess mine would be thicker? I'm curious as to how much effect this will have on the type and volume of powder I should use. Anyone have any ideas, all are welcome.

    az-jim
    "You believe these people exist to provide you with position, I believe your position exists to provide these people with FREEDOM"

    FREEEEEEEEDOMM-William Wallace

  20. #20
    Boolit Master WRideout's Avatar
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    I have an Arisaka sporter in 6.5mm. Got the Lee Cruise Missile mold because it was available, and didn't cost an arm and a leg. It's a little long for my taste (bullet weight is approx 170 gr) but it does shoot ok. I have no idea what the rifling twist is on these, but it probably makes a difference. I tried small charges of pistol powder, but got keyhole groups at 25 yds. I finally moved up to 26.0 gr of IMR 4198, and that improved things considerably.

    I have one box of Norma brass that is at least twenty years old (I don't shoot the Arisaka much.) Recently I began converting 35 Rem cases. They only need to be run through the sizing die. The necks are a little short, but it hasn't hurt anything that I can tell. Every once in a while I lose a case from having the neck folded up during resizing, but it is so much cheaper than Norma factory brass, I just live with it. The Arisaka is, I think, one of the better military mausers.

    Wayne
    What doesn't kill you makes you stronger - or else it gives you a bad rash.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check