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Thread: Just the facts: Lube recipes

  1. #181
    Boolit Buddy

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    Here's my latest. For my own use, it has replaced the concoction in my previous post (#165), as it is cleaner to handle and works quite well:

    Bullet Lube #2
    8 oz Japan wax - melt, then add
    12cc of carnauba wax flakes (4 cc Lee dipper X3), melt,stir, add
    150 ml of Lubriplate synthetic worm gear oil, stir, add
    32 cc of cetyl alcohol flakes (4cc Lee dipper X8), melt,stir

    pour into lubesizer, store excess in paper hot cups

    This is roughly:

    63% Japan wax (the carrier)
    31% worm gear oil (the lube)
    2% carnauba wax
    4% cetyl alcohol (a surfactant, to help the mix)



    The Lubriplate worm gear oil is PAO based, ISO 460 (SAE140).

    Best regards, and good shooting! Bill



    P.S.
    When the lubesizer runs dry, you can put your stored excess in a Pyrex cup and nuke it a 1000W microwave for about 3 1/2 minutes - melts it nicely. Mamma won't care because it has no odor!
    Last edited by Bill*B; 03-10-2018 at 03:14 PM. Reason: New Information

  2. #182
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Lithium - Beeswax Lube
    Garth Choate made and sold this lube in the 1970's , he was kind enough to give me the recipe.
    I have never had a leading problem when used with handgun or moderate rifle loads.
    After trying many , this one is still my favorite.

    3 parts beeswax
    1 part lithium grease ( I use Lucas Red-N-Tacky ) Garth didn't specify a brand.
    Melt the wax first and then add the grease and heat very slowly, or the wax will start burning and is hard to put out.
    Make it outside and have a couple of fire extinguishers handy.
    Garth Choate
    Choate Machine & Tool
    www.riflestock.com

    Thanks Garth,

  3. #183
    Boolit Mold wraven's Avatar
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    Hi guys what's wrong with Carnauba Red wax? I see many use only beeswax because it is cheaper or what else? I use only CR wax with no add-ons.
    Reload them all!

  4. #184
    Boolit Bub rvenneman's Avatar
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    Where o where does one get bee’s wax in chunk quantity? If have looked and looked and only find small amounts for a small fortune?

  5. #185
    Boolit Master

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    Also checking to see if there any local aperies (bee farmer). They will sell you capping grade bee wax cheap. Mine sells it to me for about $5 a pound. Its easy to clean up with cheese cloth and sinker. Then boil it. The wax melts and floats leaving all the bees and crud in the cheese clothe.
    "Speak softly and carry a big stick; you will go far."
    ~Theodore Roosevelt~

  6. #186
    In Remembrance

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    Reviving this old thread.

    I'm looking to make my own Canauba Red.

    Have searched and searched and searched, and cannot find an actual recipe.

    Can anyone assist with a reliable recipe?


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  7. #187
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    I am fairly certain the CR recipe is proprietary info.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  8. #188
    In Remembrance

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    That may well be. However, I am thinking that someone, among the brilliant lube creators here, could have discovered a close resemblance thereof. The internet is chock full of clone recipes for things like Oreos, etc.

    So, one thought I have is to try a batch of Ben's Red, and just add canauba wax to it. Thoughts?


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  9. #189
    In Remembrance

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    Have had some side discussions, and am abandoning my efforts for Canauba Red.


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    Author of a book on reloading
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  10. #190
    Boolit Bub Stuckcase's Avatar
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    Beeswax and crisco
    50/50
    Si Vis Pacem Parabellum
    "For every tree that does not bear fruit is thrown in to the fire"
    Mathew 7:19

  11. #191
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    Carnauba wax is a vegetable wax obtained from the leaves of a Brazilian palm tree (Copernica cerifera) known as the “Tree of Life.” Carnauba wax is the hardest natural wax available. Commercially, it is widely used in the cosmetic, body care, food, pharmaceutical, automotive, and other industries.

    Next, Start by putting 1 part carnauba wax in the soup can, then place the wax filled can in a pot of hot water and slowly heat until the wax is melted (approximately 185° F.) Once the carnauba wax has melted, remove the can from the heat (it's hot, use some pliers) and add 4 parts beeswax and enough turpentine to cover all the waxes

    The 'red' is just a specific coloring additive
    Last edited by JonB_in_Glencoe; 07-22-2019 at 10:15 AM. Reason: removed ebay link
    Regards
    John

  12. #192
    Boolit Mold
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    Just made up my first batch of lee 175 tc 10 mm boolits using Barry Darr formula from early in this thread. I’m not shooting these too fast and have had good luck pan lubing 44 mag and special with this lube. Using lee alox on some 175 tl swc to compare. Hope the work as well as the 250 rn 44 mag loads I’ve made w Barry Darr lube recipe.

  13. #193
    Boolit Master

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    I never write down my recipe, but it's along the lines of

    2 parts beewswax
    1 paraffin
    .25 Alox
    .5 carnauba
    steal a few crayons from my kids to make it perdy.

  14. #194
    Boolit Master

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    I'm convinced you can essentially mix any ratio of the 25 common lube ingredients at any ratio, and then add enough paraffin and carnauba to get it as hard as you need. They all work!

  15. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hanzy4200 View Post
    I'm convinced you can essentially mix any ratio of the 25 common lube ingredients at any ratio, and then add enough paraffin and carnauba to get it as hard as you need. They all work!
    Hanzy,
    This is very true.

    When I first started to play with homemade lube formulas, a friend who is a Commercial caster (and a member here) gave me some advice. One thing he said, he knew of one caster who just used 100% melted crayons (he got free) and that worked fine for 38spl loads.

    The problem is, "They all work"...until they don't.
    Some Lubes will not work in high heat conditions,
    some will not work in cold temperature conditions,
    some will not work in high pressure loads,
    some are more smoky than others, which isn't good for indoor ranges,
    some are very messy during the reloading process,
    some are real messy, especially when shooting revolvers, but if a greasy gun isn't a big deal...well, you get the point.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  16. #196
    Boolit Master
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    My first attempt at making lube was a 50% mix of gulf wax paraffin and white lithium grease. After a few shots you could barely hold onto a revolver! This was the lube that allowed me to experience first-hand the phenomenon of the purge flyer in rifles.
    NRA Endowment Member

    Armed people don't march into gas chambers.

  17. #197
    Boolit Master
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    It has become glaringly obvious to me after a year of research on the internet, purchasing and reading multiple publications, and participating in many online discussions, that the following conclusions can be drawn regarding bullet lubricant formulas.

    1. There is absolutely no consensus as to ingredients or the proportion of ingredients used to make bullet lubricant.

    2. Everyone’s specific recipe has been used to win local, national, world, and intergalactic competitions and is the best available.

    3. There is no agreement on whether using natural or synthetic ingredients work better. Synthetic ingredients are non-polar and natural ingredients are of course polar in their molecular alignment.

    4. There are no “new” recipes out there. The debate regarding the formula and use of homemade lubricants seemed to die on the vine a decade or two ago.

    5. Current online “discussions” on a host of pertinent pages are simply a rehash of a decades old debate and in fact, I see responses made to original posts from 2007 or older. Nobody seems to read the dates of the original post or read the 127 pages of “answers” and argument which arrive at no conclusion.

    6. Even the US Army’s bullet lubricant recipes from the 19th century are nebulous and all over the place regarding ingredient proportions. One recipe calls for 1-part beeswax to 1-part tallow and in the next year, 16 parts beeswax to 1-part tallow. With a 16:1 ratio, why even add tallow?

    7. There is today, absolutely no need to make your own bullet lubricant other than for the thrill of it. It is cheaper to purchase excellent lubricants online without all the hassle of locating, buying, shipping, blending, and storing your own lubricant.

    8. Having experimented with multiple recipes, I have discovered that the commercially available SPG bullet lubricant works better than any I have brewed up for my black powder cartridges. I use two versions of Confederate lube for my Cap & Ball shooting; either a 1:1 or a 2:1 ratio of beeswax to tallow depending on temperature, and the NRA 50/50 lube works best in all other cast bullet/smokeless powder applications for both handgun and rifle.

    I am sure that this posting will generate a decade of responses with no conclusions. I just find it amusing that we continue to generate discourse on a matter that simply will have no agreeable conclusion regarding formula, use, and purpose.

    What say you?

  18. #198
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    Tar Heel,
    you forgot to add, that a recipe without clear and specific cooking/blending instructions, will likely yield different lubes by different people, even though the lube contains the same ingredients.

    Case in point, 10 years ago, the very first lube I made was Speed Green. I had bought some Speed Green from the original maker (Bullshop) and liked it, so I wanted to make some. It's a very simple recipe. Just Beeswax and oil. How can you goof that up, right? Well, the first batch I made was much more sticky/tacky then the Bullshop made lube, which made me dislike the lube, even though it's a fine lube for many applications.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  19. #199
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe View Post
    Tar Heel,
    you forgot to add, that a recipe without clear and specific cooking/blending instructions, will likely yield different lubes by different people, even though the lube contains the same ingredients.

    Case in point, 10 years ago, the very first lube I made was Speed Green. I had bought some Speed Green from the original maker (Bullshop) and liked it, so I wanted to make some. It's a very simple recipe. Just Beeswax and oil. How can you goof that up, right? Well, the first batch I made was much more sticky/tacky then the Bullshop made lube, which made me dislike the lube, even though it's a fine lube for many applications.
    Good point. Another significant omission is ingredients by weight or by volume. That never seems to be specified. A cup (8 oz by volume) of pearled beeswax is a hell of a lot less than 8oz by weight of pearled beeswax. Liquids are closer and will generate the same approximate ratios of ingredients but this GLARING omission seems to never be addressed.

  20. #200
    Boolit Master
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    I measure my ingredients in grams on a digital kitchen scale and write down the gram weight of all the ingredients. I measure by weight solid or liquid because it is easier.
    This is particularly important if at the last minute I toss in something extra that wasn’t part of the original recipe.
    I take note of the order the ingredients are added to the blend and note the temperature with an digital thermometer.
    I try to be as scientific as I can so that whatever I create I want it to be accurately repeatable or avoidable in future lube making sessions.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check