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Thread: Calling Lyman All American Press Owners - Help

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold hamholfarm's Avatar
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    Calling Lyman All American Press Owners - Help

    Cananyone tell me how to remove the top knurled piece off of this press (see pic)?

    I removed the set screw on the side of the piece – and could see threadsunderneath. I tried un-screwing it, it is very tight – I used a chain wrench,only turned it about one or two full turns – it did not ease up or start tocome off. I also tried – gently – to tap it off with a hammer – no go.

    Anotherproblem I have is with the main toggle shaft. I don’t remember how I removedit, but it won’t go back together. The shaft will not fit back into the bore ofthe main casting. I don’t remember it being that tight, and I don’t want tobeat it back in – suggestions? I suppose, I could put the base on the mill andvery slightly open the hole with a boring bar – but I really don’t want to gothrough all that.

    I was given this press a little over ten years ago. It hadsat unused in an unfinished basement for a long time. When I received it, itwas stuck and would not cycle. I disassembled as much as I could at the time –mostly it was the main toggle shaft and link bars that I was able to remove.Now I’m trying to disassemble, clean, and then reassemble it.

    So, can anyonehelp?

    Thanks,

    Chip



  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Yes, there should be a Set screw visible. Unloosen and turn the top. it may be stuck or loaded with grease. use Kroil or another solvent type . do not loose the Ball and the spring inside. you will never get a replacement . clean and replace . Tighten enough to let the turret lock in place but yet move
    Thats it
    Sal
    NRA Endowment Member
    International Ammunition Association
    New York, the Empire State Where Empires were Won and Lost

  3. #3
    Boolit Mold hamholfarm's Avatar
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    Sal,

    I did remove the set screw. I also had been soaking it with Kroil for several days. As I originally posted, I could still barely turn the cap using a chain wrench. However, I wasn't sure how the cap came off, so I didn't muscle it. I'll give it another go with more gusto this time.

    I did notice the ball bearing, at first I wasn't sure what it was. At least now I've been warned - I'm sure I would have lost it in my shop otherwise!

    Thanks for replying, you saved me a lot of headaches.

    Chip

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    I have several machine. it is years of hard Gunk
    glad I could help
    Sal
    NRA Endowment Member
    International Ammunition Association
    New York, the Empire State Where Empires were Won and Lost

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    remove the set screw . depends on you model there could be 2. take a dead blow or a thin wood strip and hit the top of the round head <THEN hit the outside edge of the turret . make sure you don't use a hard hammer.
    it unscrews counterclock
    some have a detent ball so make sure you take the allen screw {S] out and look inside
    if the main shift has a allen screw on the left you can take that out too. If it don't -don't try its lock tighted in

  6. #6
    Boolit Bub
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    Someone at sometime probably tried to remove it without removing the set screw and bugard the cap threads. I had the same problem and had to use channel lock pliers to remove it. Then had to take something sharp and straighten out threads as best as possible. Ran it on and off a few times to clean threads. Used rag on cap and post threads to finish clean up. Lubed and now seems to do well enough!

  7. #7
    Boolit Mold hamholfarm's Avatar
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    About the main toggle shaft:

    I tried putting each end of the toggle shaft into each end of the bore on the main casting – I would set one end of the shaft on top of the bore and slowly rotate it to see if it would line up with the bore in a particular position to slide in – no success. I then set the shaft on top of one end of the bore, lined it up as straight as I could, and gave it a whack with a large hammer. It only went in a very slight bit and stuck, so I pulled it out and it had cut/shaved a ridge inside the bore. The ridge was maybe a 30* arc and enough metal that I wasn’t going to try hitting it anymore. I don’t understand how it came out but won’t go back in.

    Ideas of what I should try?

    Last edited by hamholfarm; 12-29-2014 at 09:20 AM. Reason: typing

  8. #8
    Boolit Mold hamholfarm's Avatar
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    I got it!

    I was able to get the top cap off. I left the press in myunheated shop for the last few days. I put a heat gun to the top cap for awhile, and then used the chain wrench to get the cap off. The threads on themain post are buggered up from the set screw. I don’t know how I’m going to cleanthem up as they are 28 tpi, and I don’t know if my needle file set is fineenough. I don’t want to just crank it down tight with the chain wrench; I wantit to be able to turn by hand.

    Suggestions?

    I also was able to get the main toggle back into the maincasting. I used the heat gun again on the casting, aligned the toggle and gaveit a few whacks with a big mallet to get it started. I then took it to the 20ton press and forced it in. It wasn’t too tight, in fact when it hit the middleof the toggle, it just fell in. So the ends are larger than the middle. Figures.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    A thread Chaser will work if you can find one big enough. also a careful job on the thread with a file as you said. may relieve some. They do make a thread chase that clamps on . I don't have the name I have seen it done @ an auto body. it work from the bottom up rather than top down
    NRA Endowment Member
    International Ammunition Association
    New York, the Empire State Where Empires were Won and Lost

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    wow bubba at work
    I love the bubbas

  11. #11
    Boolit Mold hamholfarm's Avatar
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    What's so bubba about what I'm doing?

  12. #12
    Boolit Man SGTM9's Avatar
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    You should be able to clean the threads with a thread file. It is what they are made for. It comes in several thead configureations usually 8 different threads on one square shaped tool. Should be able to find a 28 tpi.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master zuke's Avatar
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    I know the feeling about bringing an old tool back to life!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check