Very nice, when's the next build
CD
Very nice, when's the next build
CD
De Oppresso Liber
Irag: 91,03,04,05,06,08,09',15', 16',22-23'
Afghanistan: 09,10,11',14',17'-21'
You got enough rail to be any type of Mall Ninja you want
Nice rifles.
"Don't worry what they think. In the end it is not between them and you, it is between you and God."
Je suis Charlie!
"You won't know until you Actually try it"
"The impossible just takes longer."
"Don't let them beat you down with their inexperience."
"You'll never accomplish what you don't try. " - Moldmaker
That black gun looks scary 6bg6ga and at the moment scarring the bejuzuss out of me. <shuddering>
Will the black color make it more dangerous and deadly? Is that that that! one of those banana clip thingies I here so much about on the news? <very scared>
Also could someone explain why if someone has 30 rifles like this one, it's considered an arsenal, when most here can only shoot one gun at a time.
The news also says they can go off all by themselves even when not loaded as they can drag themselves to a box of dedicated ammo and load themselves while the owner is away. .
Last edited by Just Duke; 01-05-2015 at 10:53 PM.
very cool looking guns, much deadlier than others with that black paint! I need to keep things lite wt for health reasons. Is a poly bottom ok for good shelf life or should you stay with a metal of some sort for longevity. I have a 300 bo for a bolt gun so that would be my cartridge and possible 6.5 grendle if my ship ever came in.
Look twice, shoot once.
From what I have read the poly lowers do not hold up over time. This isn't from experience but from reviews I have read. Google the poly manufacturer for reviews.
I don't have a good answer about the longevity of Poly lowers but with Brownells selling Bushmaster lowers for $49.99 and some of the other brands selling for $40.00 if I had any Poly's I would replacing them.
No more than stripped aluminum AR lowers weigh. It's always been hard for me to figure out the appeal of a poly lower.
I am in agreement with Duke. I am getting my first upper tomorrow from the big brown truck. Its going directly into the closet so I don't scare the wife.
There is no need for a forged lower. a T6 6061 aluminum one is good enough.
Poly seems to work fine from what I have seen. What is its function anyway? It houses the trigger group and magazine. Its under no pressure. I wouldn't be afraid of one. I know a guy that just bought a AR-15 pistol with a plastic lower and it works fine and shows no wear.
I've shot thousands of rounds through my 6.8 SPC that has a polymer lower. I have noticed no wear issues and nothing to indicate it won't stand up to 10's of thousands of more rounds shot through it. I've also shot well over a thousand 300 BO rounds using the same lower. It is noticably lighter than an aluminum lower.
I prefer forged 7075-t6, however, the only stressed part of the lower is the buffer tube thread area. (This is made worse by direct blowback actions like the 9mm ar) If properly reinforced you should have no issue. The take down and pivot pin holes are usually under little to no stress.
the one area they seem to be lacking is in magazine fit, but this seems to be on a case by case scenario, if your mag of choice drops free with no play I see no reason to not use one for a range gun.
Obviously my vote goes to building a 300blk rifle BTW.
ΜOΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
It's worse than ebola, I'm tellin ya! LMAO
I have built several, rifle, pistol, 223, 300aac and 308. I got bit bad and had to run to beat the crazy legislation that goes around here in MD, but I have had a blast building up my AR's.
FWIW, I use cnc'd 7075T6 lowers, get them as 80's and finish and cerakote them. I have to back off for a while due to financial issues, but I have amassed all the AR's I need for a good while. Now learning how to brew boolits to feed some of them..
One of my lowers...
I'd stay away from the poly lowers. I watched one break into 4 pieces. Never seen that with aluminum.
If you think your a hammer everything looks like a nail.
Well I just finised my first build. And have a question. I have cleaned & degreased the BCG and all of the upper internally. What is the best lube to put back on any moving parts. Powdered Graphite, Cilicone Spray, Some kind of pastey
Other than wear. Is there a way to eliminate the gritty feel and sound as the BCG slams forward?
50/50 automatic transmission fluid And 10w-30.
heat in a double boiler low heat and add as much red bearing grease as the solution will hold.
Scrape out any remaining globs. (That's the technical term... Globs)
put into bottles of your choosing. Can make about 1 quart for 15 bucks.
Saturate bolt and bearing surfaces. Wipe off any runs. A wet AR is a happy AR.
The 10w30/ grease adds all the lubrication you will need. And auto transmission. Fluid contains detergents that help keep the bolt free of stuck carbon.
Its not not the super tactical 15 bucks/ 1/2 oz. lube. But it works better.
hope this helps.
ΜOΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |