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Thread: Home made bore cleaner???

  1. #1
    Boolit Master taco650's Avatar
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    Home made bore cleaner???

    Anybody have any recipe's they'd be willing to share for home made bore cleaner fluid? I don't want to blow up my house or rot the rifling's out of my barrels but if I could save a few $$'s and make it myself I would. I'm trying to get the bore on my 30-06 cleaned up after years of shooting j-words so it will shoot cast better and my old standby, Hoppe's #9 just isn't getting it. Thanks!

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


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    Ed's Red,should be on here somewhere(I don't know how to post links,my son won't show me).It works pretty good,but not good for wood or bluing.The recipe makes quite a bit,enough to last a long time.
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  3. #3
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    eds red will get rid of fouling and protect the bore but not copper fouling.
    I mix mineral turpintine/kero/atf fluid by 3rds.
    I leave out the acetone as I don't need it.


    Some of the amonia based brews can be quite agressive.
    and you better clean out the barrel with hot soapy water and scrub it all clean and oiled before leaving it over night.

    Frogs pages or something or other is what you are looking for.
    google eds red.

    I got some hoppes#9 for my hornet and leave it in the bore till I next gunna shoot it.
    It seems to work better with time.
    I have come al'cheapo stuff that smells like amonia and if more gelly like which works o.k. if I need it.

    Some of the newer copper stuff is supposed to work great.
    But you could be going though layers of powder residue then copper.

    Clean up best you can the shoot paper patched unlubed bullets through it for a while.
    I should clean and hone at the same time.
    my 2 cents worth.

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  5. #5
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    I mix mineral turpintine + Hoppes#9 + a touch of ammonia
    I finish with straight Hoppes#9 to make sure no trace of ammonia is left
    I used this on my old 1930 vintage Win30-30 and got all the built up crud and fowling out...
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  6. #6
    Boolit Master Baron von Trollwhack's Avatar
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    After years of shooting jacketed bullets you need a good commercial bore cleaner to get the copper fouling out. Eds Red is not the stuff to do it.
    Once you have the bore clean and shoot cast, Eds Red if fully successful. Contrary to advise above it will nor hurt blueing. Likewise if your Eds Red does not have all components it is not Eds Red.

    It is great for carbon fouling, as a follow up to using a stong brass fouling solvent, for 22 rimfire rifles, bolt soaking and the like. Just put a rag over wood finishes to cover for possible drips.

    BvT
    Every lawbreaker we allow into our nation, or tolerate in our citizen population leads to the further escalation of law breaking of all kinds and acceptance of evil.
    Since almost all aspects of our cultural existence are LIBERAL in most states, this means that the nation is on a trajectory to dissolution by the burden of toleration and acceptance of LAWBREAKING as a norm, a trajectory back to the dark ages of history.

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  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    All I need for lead alloy bullet shooting...."Ed's Red"

  8. #8
    Boolit Master


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    The lanolin additive makes Ed's Red a fine blue protector. I wipe off my cowboy guns with it after bore cleaning and they have laughed off being rained on at the loading table.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    Here is the original source material as it appeared on Fidonet

    BBS: AirPower BBS
    Date: Sat, 01-10-98 (19:26) Number: 7969 Refer: 0
    To: ALL
    From: ED HARRIS
    Subj: Ed's Red Revisited
    Conf: FIREARMS (286) Read: No Status: Public
    "Ed's Red" - - Revisited
    By C.E., "Ed" Harris
    Since I mixed my first "Ed's Red" (ER) bore cleaner five years ago, hundreds of users have told me that they find it as effective as commercial products. This cleaner has an action similar to military rifle bore cleaner, such as Mil-C-372B. Itaner, such as Mil-C-372B. It is highly effective for removing plastic fouling from shotgun bores, caked carbon inn semi-automatic rifles or pistols, or leading in revolvers. "ER" is not a "decoppering" solution for fast removal of heavy jacket fouling, but because is more effective in removal of caked carbon and primer residues than most other cleaners, so metal fouling is reduced when "ER" is used.
    I researched the subject rather thoroughly and determined there was no technical reason why an effective firearm bore cleaner couldn't be mixed using common hardware store ingredients. The resulting cleaner is safe, effective, inexpensive, provides excellent corrosion protection and adequate residual lubrication. Routine oiling after cleaning is unnecessary except for storage exceeding 1 year, or in harsh environments, such as salt air exposure.
    The formula is adapted from Hatcher's "Frankford Arsenal Cleaner No.18," but substitutes equivalent modern materials. Hatcher's recipe called for equal parts of acetone, turpentine, Pratts Astral Oil and sperm oil, and (optionally) 200 grams of anhydrous lanolin per liter into the cleaner.
    Some discussion of the ingredients in ER is helpful to understand the properties of the cleaner and how it works. Pratts Astral Oil was nothing more than acidg more than acid free, deodorized kerosene. Today you would ask for "K1" kerosene of the type sold for use in indoor space heaters.
    An inexpensive, effective substitute for sperm oil is Dexron III automatic transmission fluid. Prior to 1950 most ATF's were sperm oil based. During WWII sperm oil was mostly unavailable, so highly refined, dewaxed hydrofinished petroleum oils were developed, which had excellent thermal stability. When antioxidants were added to prevent gumming these worked well in precision instruments.
    With the high demand for automatic transmission autos after WWII, sperm oil was no longer practical to produce ATFs in the needed quantities needed, so the wartime expedients were mass produced. ATFs have been continually improved over the years. The additives contained in Dexron include detergents or other surfactants which are highly suitable for inclusion in an all-purpose cleaner, lubricant and preservative.
    Hatcher's Frankford Arsenal No. 18 used gum spirits of turpentine, but turpentine is both expensive and also highly flammable, so I chose not to use it. Much safer and more inexpensive are "aliphatic mineral spirits," which are an open-chain organic solvent, rather than the closed-chain, benzene ring structure, commontructure, common to "aromatics," such as naptha or "lighter fluid." Sometimes called "safety solvent," aliphatic mineral spirits are used for thinning oil based paint, as automotive parts cleaner and is commonly sold under the names "odorless mineral spirits," "Stoddard Solvent" or "Varsol".
    Acetone is included to provide an aggressive, fast-acting solvent for caked smokeless powder residues. Because acetone readily evaporates and the fumes are harmful in high concentrations, it is recommended that it be left out if the cleaner will be used indoors, in soak tanks or in enclosed spaces lacking forced air ventilation. Containers should be kept tightly closed when not in use. ER is still effective without acetone, but not as "fast-acting."
    "Ed's Red" does not chemically dissolve copper fouling in rifle bores, but it does a better job of removing carbon and primer residue than most other cleaners. Many users have told me, that frequent and exclusive use of "ER" reduces copper deposits, because it removes the old impacted powder fouling left behind by other cleaners. This reduces the abrasion and adhesion of jacket metal to the bore, leaving a cleaner surface condition which reduces subsequent fouling. Experience indicatesrience indicates that "ER" will actually remove metal fouling in bores if it is left to "soak," for a few days so the surfactants will do the job, when followed by a repeat cleaning. You simply have to be patient.
    Addition of lanolin to ER is optional, because the cleaner works perfectly well and gives adequate corrosion protection and lubrication without it. Inclusion of lanolin makes the cleaner easier on the hands, increases its lubricity and film strength and improves corrosion protection if firearms, tools or equipment will be routinely exposed to salt air, water spray, or corrosive urban atmospheres.
    I recommend the lanolin included if you intend to use the cleaner as a protectant for long term storage or for a "flush" after water cleaning of black powder firearms or those fired with military chlorate primers. This is because lanolin has a great affinity for water and readily emulsifies so that the bore can be wiped of residual moisture, leaving a protective film. If you inspect your guns and wipe them down twice yearly, you can leave out the lanolin and save about $10 per gallon.
    At current retail prices you can buy all the ingredients to mix ER, without the lanolin for about $12 per gallon. I urge you to mix some yourself. I ame yourself. I am confident it will work as well for you as it does for me and hundreds of users who got the "recipe" on the Fidonet Firearms Echo.
    CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
    • 1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
    • 1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
    • 1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits
    • CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.
    • 1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
    • (Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

    MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:
    Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are OK. Do NOT use HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will slowly evaporate. Acetone in ER will attack HDPE over time, causing the container to collapse, making a heck of a mess!
    Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the otherainer to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved. I recommend diverting up to 4 ozs. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix to use as "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining mix. Label and safety warnings follow:
    FIREARM BORE CLEANER
    CAUTION: FLAMMABLE MIXTURE -- HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED -- KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN
    Contents: petroleum distillates, surfactants, organometallic antioxidants and acetone.
    1. Flammable mixture, keep away from heat, sparks or flame.
    2. FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician immediately. In case of eye contact immediately flush thoroughly with water and call a physician. For skin contact wash thoroughly.
    3. Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or spray mist. It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with itsonsistent with its labeling. Reports have associated repeated and prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and nervous system damage. If using in closed armory vaults lacking forced air ventilation wear respiratory protection meeting NIOSH TC23C or equivalent. Keep container tightly closed when not in use.
    INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE:
    1. Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is still warm from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it back into the bore.
    2. Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its action.
    3. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled service rifles, leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine use.
    routine use.
    4. Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for 1 year under average atmospheric conditions.
    5. If lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm from rust for up to two years, even in a humid environment. (For longer storage use Lee Liquid Alox or Cosmolene). "ER" will readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene.
    6. Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun. While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood finishes.
    7. Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag. First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as described.
    8. I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is used exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not wiped between shots and shots and areand shots and are heavily caked from black powder fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a flush with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from residual moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all the corrosive residue out.
    This "Recipe" has been placed in the public domain, and may be freely distributed provided that it is done so in its entirely with all current revisions, instructions and safety warnings included herein, and that proper attribution is given to the author.
    --- msged 2.05
    * Origin: Home of Ed's Red (1:109/120.3006)

  10. #10
    Boolit Master GabbyM's Avatar
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    Sweets ammonia cleaner. Then head the warning to not let it set longer than five minutes IIRC in the bore. JB bore paste to polish bore after it's all clean. If you have layered fouling of carbon and copper. An electronic cleaner like Outers Foul Out or a home made setup may be the best way to get it. Of course no matter what. You need a proper bore guide, bronze brush and one piece cleaning rod. Plenty of patches and a good jag. Montana Extreme is high in ammonia also. Sweets is nothing but ammonia gel.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    This is a bit slower than Sweet's but I have had good results with it and it is much cheaper than Sweet's

    --"Humpy's White Bore Cleaner"
    This modification of the "ammonia solution" thickens the liquid and helps to keep it in the bore for more efficient cleaning. You can if you like omit the 1-part sudsy ammonia
    2 parts - 10% ammonia,
    1 part - standard household "sudsy" ammonia (optional)
    1 part - Ivory liquid dishwashing detergent (It has been reported that "Formula 409" can also be used though the resulting mixture is probably thinner.)
    This formula yields about a 6.5 percent ammonia solution. If you omit the sudsy ammonia the solution is about 7.75 percent

    You will probably have a bit of an issue finding 10% or stronger ammonia but usually an industrial cleaning supply place will have it. I got mine from ACE Hardware through a special order..
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  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    by the time you buy all the stuff you need for these concoctions, you could buy a big bottle of buths bore shine, and a can of kroil. mix kroil into the butch's 70-75% butch's and the rest kroil. works great on powder fouling, moly, and copper fouling. a million times better than hoppe's#9. and as a bonus, having the rest of the kroil sitting around the house is always handy.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master Baron von Trollwhack's Avatar
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    Thanks to Outpost 75 for posting that original information. Many here would otherwise never be aware of it.

    BvT
    Every lawbreaker we allow into our nation, or tolerate in our citizen population leads to the further escalation of law breaking of all kinds and acceptance of evil.
    Since almost all aspects of our cultural existence are LIBERAL in most states, this means that the nation is on a trajectory to dissolution by the burden of toleration and acceptance of LAWBREAKING as a norm, a trajectory back to the dark ages of history.

    BvT

  14. #14
    Boolit Master taco650's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the replies and links. I'll let you know how things work out.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master

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    Ed's Red is all I use.
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    Boolit Master wistlepig1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pworley1 View Post
    Ed's Red is all I use.
    One more for Ed's red, for heavy copper, Elec. cleaner

    www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm
    Last edited by wistlepig1; 12-15-2014 at 07:33 PM. Reason: add link

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  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by lefty o View Post
    by the time you buy all the stuff you need for these concoctions, you could buy a big bottle of buths bore shine, and a can of kroil. mix kroil into the butch's 70-75% butch's and the rest kroil. works great on powder fouling, moly, and copper fouling. a million times better than hoppe's#9. and as a bonus, having the rest of the kroil sitting around the house is always handy.
    Kroil is some pretty sweet stuff! I did an Ed's Red inspired recipe substituting Kroil and Coleman fuel (naptha) for the acetone and kerosene. It seemed to work well enough. However, I am a bit particular about keeping things clean. There wasn't much crud or fouling to begin with.

    Both my time in the Army and being a machinist have left me with a moderate case of OCD when it comes to maintaining tools and equipment. My tool box and lathe are the neatest and cleanest in the shop.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master

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    For copper fouling my vote goes to Barnes CR10! ( think Sweets on steroids) It will pit a barrel if you don't follow instruction to the letter! After you get the bore clean use Butches Bore Shine and Kroil 75/25 mix to keep it that way.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master

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    For copper I have always used Sweet's 7.62.

    Ain't nothing scary about using Sweet's, put it on a patch or swap, run it through the bore so it is nice and wet, let set a couple of minutes and patch out the blue/green copper fowling. When you get no more blue green on your patches, swab out the barrel real good with Hoppe's and patches a couple of times to remove any traces of Sweet's. Then add a good lube or rust preventative.

    JUst don't leave Sweet's in the bore for extended periods of time or use it with copper bore brushes.
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  20. #20
    Boolit Mold
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    It appears there are about as many ways to clean rifle bores as there are folks doing the cleaning. More'n one way to skin a cat, eh?

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BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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