Swage for longer brass life IMHO. Found that out with 1950's 45 acp brass.
Swage for longer brass life IMHO. Found that out with 1950's 45 acp brass.
One more vote for the Dillon primer pocket swager. You can do a lot of cases in a relatively short period of time.
Nighthunter
RCBS bench swager or Hornady reamer, both work fine.
EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
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I prefer to swage than remove metal. I found a longer life if I swaged (primer pockets stayed tighter longer). I use the RCBS swager die set. Not as expensive as other options; but it does a good job. The RCBS rod can bend if you don't set it up correctly; but there are replacement rods on ebay that have a smaller diameter that makes it easier on .223 brass. Of course RCBS will likely send you a replacement rod at not charge. They are good folks.
I have used a hand powered countersink, when time was short; but results were inconsistent. Very easy to remove too much metal from a pocket, unless you have some kind of jig. I think the RDBS and Hornady pocket prep tools have a shoulder which keeps you from removing too much metal.
Fortunately, crimps only have to be fixed once. So to me, cutting meant less brass life, and more crimp fixing. Swaging gave me longer life and less fixing.
In the end, it was easier to get once fired non military brass. No crimp to deal with. I like the Federal brass.
I have the RCBS primer pocket swager. It worked reasonably well with most 5.56 and 7.62 brass military brass, but not with some that was particularly hard. I also then had a problem when trying to seat certain brands of primers, especially Winchester. Because of this, I stopped using it.
After that, I got the primer pocket cutter attachment for my Lyman Universal case trimmer, which I use with an 18 volt cordless drill. With the cutter in the Universal trimmer, I set the cutting depth with the bushing type stops on the cutter shaft, and all the primer pockets are cut to exactly the same depth every time. I also use a small leather pad to hold the cases to keep them from spinning between my fingers. Its probably not the fastest method, but I'm most concerned with precision. It works for me.
Dave
The Dillon swager is amazing. I had 3k 9mm to do and was able to swage a case every 1-2 sec. I figured I was doing about 500 every 15min. very easy on the hands and very effortless. I haven't gotten into my .223 cases except a few to get it set up, and noticed the case doesn't line up to the pocket as easy as the 9mm did, but will still be far easier then cutting and easier on the fingers.
I use the Dillon super swage and couldn't imagine using anything else. It is so fast and easy to use my 4 year old did about 100 before he got bored.
I've used and loved the Dillon for years. I just changed over, to a Small Base, RCBS AR15 size die. And now, it seems like the pocket is too small. I de primed and swagged before sizing.
Swage them in the Dillon, Small base dies do not swage the primer pocket. HUH???
I guess I'm the odd man out, as I use both. I use the RCBS swager to get the remove the crimp, and use a countersink on the drill press to create a small chamfer to make it easier to get the primer started. I've crumpled a primer or two in a swaged pocket when it didn't get started in just right, but haven't had any problems since added a slight chamfer.
In the past, I have used the RCBS swage kit for getting rid of the primer crimp, it has been OK, but still some of the primers went in a little hard. While looking at the RCBS catalog, I came across a primer pocket cutter for my RCBS Trim Mate. I ordered and got it installed it and it works great, but some of the primers were still were hard to seat, so right after I cut the military crimp out, then I just move it right to the inside bevel cutter tool and cut a little of the edge off (bevel it a little), Now my primers start very nicely and and I am very happy. Finding the right tool makes the job go so much easier.
CH4D priming and swage kit. Works well for me.
https://www.ch4d.com/products/equipm...ming-tools/psk
A #23 round stone setting bur is about 5.4 mm. A SR primer pocket is about 4.45 mm +or-.
I have these things around because of the stone setting I sometimes do.
I put this in the primer pocket and just take the very tiny bite off the ledge. NO MORE!!
One can grab about 20 at a time and do them in less than a minute. Swaging is probably the way to go, but I don't have a swage and do have setting burs. I have taken dull burrs about a 5mm #20, and burnish the crimp away. I can raise e some metal though.
Shiloh
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Less "odd" by one ........... I do the same!
I swage with the RCBS old school unit ......... and then bevel the mouth with two different case mouth debur units.
If I just use the RCBS swager ........ I still have a sharp edge that buggers up new primers I am trying to seat. So I use a RCBS and then a Lyman VLD case mouth chamfering tools.
Easy on the cutting though ...... you can cut it off all you want but it's tough to grow it back on. .......... and that's why I swage first. Save that brass in a most critical area.
GabbyM mentioned inside flash hole deburring ........ I do ALL my metalics with that treatment.
Three 44s
Less odd by two.. I use an RCBS swager on my press and then a quick pass with a countersink in my cordless drill if needed to break the edge a little. Thank goodness you only have to remove crimps once.. think I have enough brass for a good while now. I also deburr the inside flash holes on all newly obtained brass, rifle and pistol.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |