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Thread: keep white wood white?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    nekshot's Avatar
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    keep white wood white?

    Are there any gunstock finnish's that would keep maple\ poplar\pine wood white when done rather than the typical yellow tint?
    Look twice, shoot once.

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy 2AMMD's Avatar
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    Google "AWLWOOD" It is a clear wood finish for wood on boats but I think it will do what you want. Not cheap, but very durable.
    2AMMD

  3. #3
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    YYYIKES, I could maybe afford a small bit of their reducer or brush cleaner but the product is outta my league!! I do believe it would do the trick.
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  4. #4
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    I attached a link to a good article about which finishes are clearest. It would be up to you to decide if they are what you would want for a gunstock. I use water passed poly to keep maple the whitest, but it doesn't exactly make the grain pop or provide the durability of a traditional stock finish.

    http://ebenistecreateur.fr/file/livr...ON%20SUITE.pdf

  5. #5
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    Ultraviolet light will eventually yellow pretty much any wood.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
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  6. #6
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    Awlgrip finishes are super, but horribly expensive. Being an escapee from the marine industry, I have had a bunch of experience with the stuff. If you do get your hands on some of the clear finish, be darned sure to wear a full face sealing respirator when spraying it. Not much more poisonous stuff exists to breathe in.

    Waksupi is right- those woods mentioned will darken anyway with time, the rate/degree of which to be determined by the UV protective quality of a finish.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    thanks for all input and as I never do a gun to show only but to take afield in any condition I will use my normal finnish and accept the amber white!
    Look twice, shoot once.

  8. #8
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    A water-based poly will give a slightly white clear coat.
    Many of them other than the cross-linked floor finishes are not very durable.
    IIRC JE-Moser's makes one that is pretty good. I will try to look it up.
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  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    A water-borne catalyzed 2 part lacquer is what I was thinking of.
    Pretty tough and a slight white hue.
    The Minwax water base I have used is not very durable, but I do like their oil stains.
    "Don't worry what they think. In the end it is not between them and you, it is between you and God."

    Je suis Charlie!


    "You won't know until you Actually try it"

    "The impossible just takes longer."

    "Don't let them beat you down with their inexperience."

    "You'll never accomplish what you don't try. " - Moldmaker

  10. #10
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    Clear lacquer might do it.

  11. #11
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    Nitrocelluose lacquer is almost clear and will stay that way for a long time. But.....it does NOT like moisture or water. Ever see those white rings on quality old furniture? That is laq + water. Not a good combo. Extreme temp swings will also make laq crack prematurely, as it cures hard. Poly finishes stay somewhat flexable and are semi water resistant. Oils or spar varnish are the best for exposed woods like stocks.

    And your white wood will turn yellowish anyway due to UV atmospheric exposure as said above.

    Good luck with your finishing endeavor.

    bangerjim

  12. #12
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    I originally was thinking lacquer might do it but I was sceptical of the whitesh haze or rings it can get but this can said it is for exterior so I figure if it doesn't work out I simply will sand it down and apply a oil finnish. I sprayed one coat and as soon tomorrow I will sand and recoat. When done I'll show it to you all and let you fellas barf!
    Look twice, shoot once.

  13. #13
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	124016well, here it is after 2 coats. I need to get some sorta pad for the rear and finish the scope mount and we are done-all 7 pounds flat of it!
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  14. #14
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    Looks good.



    Even the alphabet blocks, don't know whatever became of mine. Guess they just triggered somethin in my head.
    "Don't worry what they think. In the end it is not between them and you, it is between you and God."

    Je suis Charlie!


    "You won't know until you Actually try it"

    "The impossible just takes longer."

    "Don't let them beat you down with their inexperience."

    "You'll never accomplish what you don't try. " - Moldmaker

  15. #15
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    That's pretty cool.
    Ive made some pistol grips from hedge, Osage orange, bois darc or whatever you want to call it.
    An extremely yellow wood when fresh but after a couple years it turns the color of rosewood or light walnut.
    Im ok with that but I've always wondered if there was something that would keep it original.
    It is the light, under the grips is still yellow.
    Some people live and learn but I mostly just live

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check