I'm sure this has been answered but what is the best way to open the NOE molds? The sprue plate does not have a handle and I know guys knock them open with a hammer or a heavy dowel. I kinda tried that and out felt like I was beating on it too hard. I know in missing something easy so please enlighten me.
I just use an old hammer handle.
Hickory i believe,doesn't hurt it a bit.
I use a rubber mallet on my NOE molds.
I also use a hickory hammer handle to open molds that don't have a sprue handle. I use that handle on The 3 NOE mold I have as well as many Lyman and Lee.
If you are having trouble getting your mold to cut the sprue, I suspect you are either casting too cold, not casting at a fast enough pace, or waiting too long after the sprue hardens.
I sometimes have that problem if I haven't let the mold heat up enough before I start but not after I get going.
I use a hickory handle to knock open the mold for the first few pours. After mold is up to temp I push the sprue plate open with my thumb. Gloved hand of course.
Brad
I had always used a wooden hammer handle to knock open sprue plates until I took advise and used a gloved hand. If the mold is up to proper temp, that's all that is needed. If i do need to use the handle, it's just to knock the bullets loose from the mold. And then it's just a light tap on the mold handle hinge bolt. I have started using molds from NOE , and what a pleasure it is to cast with these molds. With a gloved hand and the use of a PID, things are easy peasy.
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This is the same as what I do!!!Originally Posted by BK7saum
Welding gloves work great!!
I use a rawhide mallet as I have one to hand, piece of stick is just fine
If you feel as though you are having to pound the sprue plate open then you have let the alloy cool down to much, a light tap is all that is needed to open the sprue plate.
Gloved hand works as well but I don't wear gloves when casting so a quick tap with the mallet does just fine, I also use it for aligning the mould halves when closing and moving the sprue plate back into place.
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The first time I opened a sprue plate with a gloved hand during a casting session...I WAS SOLD.
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Once you find a rhythm it is real easy to open with a gloved hand. When I need to use a tool to get boolits to drop I use a hickory hammer handle that I wrapped old denim jean material around.
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since most molds don't have a handle to open them, I use a hardwood handle to lightly tap the mold and then guide the molds haves with it so that they close without misalignment.
This works for me too. Welding gloves, of course!
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Welding glove. If it's to cold, my fault, then I use a piece of 1" oak dowel. If everything is warmed up properly opening by hand is easy.
I think my problem then is too cool of a mold and letting the alloy cool too long in the mold. Thanks for the input.
Homemade lead hammer. The instructions are on this site somewhere. Works good won't hurt the sprue plate.
I use a small hammer that has plastic heads. It takes one or two light taps at most and it keeps my glove from getting so hot. After it is cut, I use my gloved hand to get it all the way open, then flip the mold and give it a light tap or two at the pivot of the handle to get the bullets to drop. It seems like there is always one cavity that a bullet will want to stick in just a little bit and it isn't always the same cavity. I have cleaned the mold as well and use it clean. The NOE molds are still my favorite.
I use heavy leather work gloves.
Dave
Gloved hand only on NOE moulds (...ove-glove)
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What JonP said. Welding gloves are it. It also allows me to gently finesse the mold closed again instead of clapping them shut. I DO still use a hickory handle to open the mold and get the bullets to drop though.
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