Always with the spirit of experiments i am made another daring gift bullet mold of custom marketing is like a Miss Universe with fishnet stockings and miniskirt underarm.
This is a bullet mold nose pour molds adjustable to make patched bullets manufactured by KAL Tool & Die - Canada
This a good shot
Last edited by Saltner; 11-22-2014 at 04:50 PM.
Weapons are like money ... no one ever has enough
Nice shooting.
When did you receive your KAL mould?
CM
Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.
Very nice! How often can you group them like that?
The mold i bought in May but had temporarily abandoned the experiments with the bullet patched because it gave me the best results of the New Postel i use.
I was stubborn to cast bullets with various percentages of tin (60,40, 30, 20, 16: 1) and loaded with heavy doses of powder.
I will continue the experiments in February because now the shooting range closes for the winter season.
Weapons are like money ... no one ever has enough
I bought a mould like it used on E-Bay about three years ago or so. It looks very good but the parting line flashing are a
Last edited by Pressman; 02-24-2020 at 04:25 PM.
Possible remedies for that ...Originally Posted by Keith Andersen
To start, remove the handles and press the mould halves together.
Look into the cavity to find out if any light shines through.
If it does not, reinstall the handles and check that again.
If there is light with the handles and no light without the handles, there is some interference between the mould block(s) and the handles. An inspection should find it and a file should cure it.
If ther is light visible when the handles are removed:
Check the mould faces for any 'obstructions' to closing.
Check the alignment pins for excess protrusion.
If there is never any light:
Cast at a lower temperature.
Don't 'pressure cast'.
CM
Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.
Cm.
You might also suggest; learn to cast. Been told this also by the guy that made the mould. I read that others are having this problem. The only good thing with that mould was the handles. Very good handles!
I got the problem solved and I had Steve Brooks make one for me that is very good mould with no problems.
I am glad you got the problem solved with brooks,,
kals mould was designed to cast with lead not lead tin alloys , lead is hard to cast with, these moulds cast lead good.finning is a result of casting too hot , too high of tin content , and pressure casting, sorry you had a bad time with yours , mine is great.
lover of 74 sharps
MYWEIGH scale merchant
" i'll tell the story 10 different ways before I'll lie to you."
Well not all of us want to shoot pure lead bullets. Alloyed bullets are more commonly used in black powder type cartridge rifles.
Yes it was a little tough getting the alignment pins out of the block. I left one pin in so the haves lined up and the dykem blue told the story.
When tin is added to lead, the melting temperature gets lower, so lead/tin alloy can be cast at a lower temperature than pure lead. By holding the temperature down any finning problem should disappear.
I have to say "should" because I do not get any finning with my KAL mould(s) even though I use alloys as rich as 16 to 1.
I did have a fight with the mould over poorly shaped bases.
During that 'contest' I had the alloy up to 800 and was pressure casting. That caused some 'tits' where alloy protruded into the vents a little. But those were too short to see, and could be scraped off with a fingernail.
I cured my base fillout problem without the high heat and high pressure, so now I just set the pot thermostat for 725 and use 'cadence' to keep all tempreatures in sync.
I have never tried any pure lead in a KAL mould ...
CM
Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.
charlie , they will cast anything just like any other mould with a little practice , they were just made to cast easy with a high lead alloy,sounds like you got yours sorted out. good
lover of 74 sharps
MYWEIGH scale merchant
" i'll tell the story 10 different ways before I'll lie to you."
i think every mold should be bought a couple of thousands over sized then the cast bullet is pushed through a push through resizeing die to the size you want. every bullet will be round and of the same size, its a simple way to fix creases seams and slightly different diam sizes. every one is a better caster than me and this is my way to make good bullets. just weigh them and put in same groups, recast those that are too far off.
You're right, as precise a bullet is cast, it is always better to give a slight resizing to standardize not only that bullet but to make them all the same, what must weigh all the bullets and split them for weight eliminating the lighter ones, usually keep the bullets with a weight range of between 3 grains and use the lighter the first shot in order to dirty the barrel.
Weapons are like money ... no one ever has enough
A shot bullet three thousands out of round will be round by the time the bullet clears the muzzle and probably in better shape then one pushed through a sizing die.
With the soft bullets used jn BPCR rifles and Black Powder wether sized or not bullets will swell to fit throat and lead of chamber so the actual "final sizing" is being done when the round is fired. This may even close fill some small voids inthe bullet from casting as the lead moves around under the pressure of firing it. I cast from 20-1 alloy and they are a soft bullet that casts well in my luman and brooks mold. Great fill out and good wieght consistency. The way I cast ( ladle 700* pot and a slightly slower pace) I get very good bullets. I use lyman 510 grn round nose, Lyman 535 grn postell ( mould is converted to nose pour now), a brooks adjustable Paper Patch in 45 caliber and Lyman 400 grn postell and Old west 400 grn Nasa bullet in 40 caliber, last is the lyman 335 grn 38 caliber. I believe the obtration is te sizing that is required more so. A sized bullet is easier to load into cases but on firing it changes due to elasticity and pressure. This is why bore riding PP works on firing the bullet swells into the rifling.
I am in complete agreement with this.A shot bullet three thousands out of round will be round by the time the bullet clears the muzzle and probably in better shape then one pushed through a sizing die.
In Farrow's book he told of running out of bullets for his Ballard while shooting a match in France. So in order to get enough rounds put together to finish the match he says he took his pocket knife and trimmed down the diameter or some of the bullets he borrowed from the guy that was in contention to win the match. He claims to have won that match, so when you think about how out of round a batch of bullets shaved off with a pocket knife would be and yet still be able to win a match, one has to wonder if we don't go a wee bit overboard about how round a bullet is.. And one also has to take into account , is the bore and the grooves of the rifle as perfectly round as the bullet coming out of the size die.
Long range rules, the rest drool.
Then agin, it was Farrow telling this fable.
History does tell us he won that match in France...
But be that as it may, when you can take a bullet that is .440 and send it rattling down a .450 bore with decent accuracy to 800 yds, one does have to give pause and thought to many things..
Long range rules, the rest drool.
a damn good shot, and a better BSer - well known for it.
Done that a lot have ya?But be that as it may, when you can take a bullet that is .440 and send it rattling down a .450 bore with decent accuracy to 800 yds, one does have to give pause and thought to many things..
On occasion, and you?
Long range rules, the rest drool.
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