I didn't think it through, work out the circumference then divide it by X slots to get the spacing.... It just shows how different people tackle jobs like this. I seem to go the difficult route, you go the logical way
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I didn't think it through, work out the circumference then divide it by X slots to get the spacing.... It just shows how different people tackle jobs like this. I seem to go the difficult route, you go the logical way
Just the simple way. Many ways to do things, more often than not my solutions are the ones that are what I can do with what I have, cheap and as little work as I can get by with.
I like your thinking. Ill cut up some plastic and spin it in the lathe to get it round then work out the spacing.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
I have seen that one, I remember being curious how he collated them hollow base up.
If you have a bunch of different length/diameter bullets you might want to invert, that is more work and material, for each one.
On the drum style you could drill the drum oversize and just make bullet specific "bushings" that drop in and once inserted into the flipper housing could not fall out.
Something like below, except you wouldn't need a shoulder even. Drill out the drum to say 3/4" and that would be wide enough that it is always riding inside the hole that it rotates in, no way to get hung up on the in/out holes for the bullets.
Last edited by jmorris; 11-26-2014 at 07:05 PM.
From what i remember on youtube, there was a setup where the projectiles were collated on their side, not standing up. There was a pin on the "sprocket" that made it so they could only sit in the slots one way, if they were the other way around they would sit high and the rejecting plate knocked them off.
There are so many different ways people are using that all seem to work. I was going to do mine years ago by machining the disc do it had the shape of the projectile i was casting so it would only ever sit flush if it was the correct way around and any others would be knocked out with a rejecting plate or pin. I like the flipping way better though, it seems more reliable as you don't need to rely on the rejecting plates to knock them out, they simply roll over if needed.
I think that is the concept GSI is/was using for their collators and the only time I messed with one it was not working correctly. Much more time/equipment involved in making something ogive specific and much more temperamental.
I would think the flipper style would be more reliable, you aren't as reliant on rejectors being set just right for them to work properly. Most flippers that i have seen don't have any, they just rotate and flip them over as required, simple yet very effective.
Hopefully i will get some time to myself to play on the weekend.
In have a hornady collator that I want to use. Just need time to mess with it.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
Sadly not a lot to report. I got a paying job that took priority, so that got done over the bullet flipper.
I roughed the circles out of some nylon sheet with a jigsaw, mounted them in the lathe and made them round, that went far better than i expected actually. Now to work out angles and make a jig and drill them. I figured it would take the same time to do one as it would 5, so i did a bunch of them so i can do different profiles later for different projectile sizes.
The only issue i have is, just how much room should there be between the housing and the inner part of the disc? Nothing i have seen shows a set figure for this.
I could measure some of the ones I have built but it is not that critical. Enough that the wheel doesn't rub the "housing". PVC is not a very precise material to work with. I will say that you should machine the base plate and install it into the PVC first. Deep enough that it makes the tubing round and you can get an ID measurement. If you just measure the ID relaxed (nothing to keep it round) you might wind up with more gap than you need, might not be a problem anyway.
The width of the notches would be somewhat more critical than the diameter of the wheel. An 1/8" gap between the wheel and housing (more than I have for sure) would not have as much adverse effects as an extra 1/8" width where the bullets could go sideways (or not) into the part that draws the nose out, and put them base down.
I actually did just that. I found the PVC was not at all round. I did the same with some MDF, rough cut with a jigsaw then mounted in the lathe and turned it down to be a nice fit. Made a mess of my lathe......
There isn't a big gap between the PVC and the wheel, but there is enough so it does not touch. I will have to be mindful to not cut too deep as to allow bullets to lay on their side. From how i understand the concept, the idea is if it is the wrong way up, the nose is drawn out then flipped back on it's base.
I'm sure i will have some trial and error doing this, hopefully i will be victorious with it though!
What caliber are you starting with?
Attached is a photo of one of the 45 feed wheels. You can see one of the top teeth is thinner than the rest, because I didn't make the jig perfect but it has no effect on function.
Looks like around .035-.045 between the teeth and ID of the PVC.
Looks like the photo didn't upload at the same resolution that I took it in. Send me a pm with your email address in it and I can send you one that you can read the calipers if you need it.
Last edited by jmorris; 12-01-2014 at 01:08 AM.
Thanks, i'll pm you my e-mail address.
I'm casting 9mm projectiles. Sadly the government wanted my .45 more than i did....
I sent you photos of both.
Thank you, i got them
Hopefully i will get time this afternoon to have a go at making a jig. I'm going to try working on 20 degrees. It will give about the right gap between slots, just a little more than yours, but i figured that would not be a real issue.
So if one were to attach a Mr. Bulletfeeer to a Star sizer, and was doing Hi-Tek boolits with no wax it seems all that would be left is a simple motor (or pneumatics) to crank the handle. Or am I missing something?
Sounds like a few grand less than buying a BC Mk V
unless you got one of those prototype models that drop the boolit nose first, you would need a bullet flipper to flip them around.
But yes... you just need a way to automate it.
There is a thread done by wyman that shows how to do pneumatics
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
The only part your missing is that the bullet collator is designed to put the bullets base down in a tube and you need them nose down.
That takes a device like the ones in post #28.
Jim that was so 1 minute ago..... LOL
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
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