Paper Patching

[Metalshaper]

Hello to the Gang,

New guy here, at least to paper patching. Have a Marlin TK model 30-30 and was wondering about the ins and outs of paper patching. Reading through some of the threads I wondered if it was absolutely required to size after patching? or, with a properly sized mold, could I patch and get to the right diameter that is needed?? Setting up to reload so I was considering what bullets I may want to use??

have no problem making my own mold if need be.. just trying to wrap my head around the finer points??

I could use a good shove in the right direction

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

[Dan Cash]

If you don't have one yet, get a 31141 or clone of same. You want the gas check shank but will not need any gas checks. Get a push through sizer .303; spray the casting with some thin case lube or a bit of dish detergent and push through the sizer. You could get a custom mould from Accurate that is shaped like the 31141 but drops at .303 and not have to size them, but should you ever want to part with the mould, you would take a beating as it is a freak size and you no longer have the option of shooting the bullet as a grease groove.

Obtain an 8 1/2 x 11 pad of Mead or other tracing paper from Wally World and cut strips across the grain (off the 11 inch side) and cut the strips down to your patch length. I patch wet but what ever pleases you. Two wraps of this paper will take your .303 bullet up to .311 or .312. Wipe some vaseline or similar lubricant on the patched bullet and load. No other sizing is required or desired.

With the 31141 bullet in a .30-30, 28-30 grains of Reloader 15 or an appropriate charge of similar burn rate propellant gives good results accuracy wise and about 2000 fps.

If your castings are good and your rifle in good shape it will shoot 1 1/2 inch or better groups at 100 yards with these bullets. You may need to fire 10 or 20 patched bullets to remove any copper fouling in the bore but you will soon have the cleanest bore in the country.

My neighbor, using a micro groove Marlin, killed a 5x5 elk last year with this load which I made for him.

[Dan Cash]

I forgot to add best wishes in your reloading and patching and Welcome to the forum. If I can be of further assistance, please PM me. Brouse the stickies at the head end of the Smokeless Paper Patching sub forum. There is a sorld of useful information.
Dan

[Nobade]

No need to size after patching if your boolit and paper are right to start with. But that's sometimes hard to achieve, so we can cheat and use sizers.

The #311041 mentioned is a very good choice, sized to .303" or so for a Marlin barrel to start. Recently I have been using a lot of RCBS 30-150-CB as well. Also very accurate, plain base, big grease groove. Works naked with smokeless or black powder, and sizes down nicely for patching. Useful boolit.

Give it a try, and keep us posted on the results. You likely won't find happiness right away but don't give up. Success will come and you'll be amazed at how well it works once you get there.

-Nobade

[Metalshaper]

Thanks to everyone for the HELP!!

I appreciate it and am moving forward with the plan to paper patch working on a mold and get'n a few more additional pieces made, to assist in the loading. I'll let you know more as I get further along in the process. mainly just Putzing along as I get a bit
of time here and there!!

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

[wmitty]

You may find it easier to patch dry with a tail to twist the patch tight; then clip it off w/ scissors and smear a little lube on the patch and run it thru a size die. I went nuts trying to wet patch and not tear the patch...

[303Guy]

You could also dry patch with a tiny overhang or skirt then put a dab of glue under the trailing edge corner and 'roll' the skirt over the base. I do a twist and turn thing with both fore fingers and thumbs to wrap it up tight. Rolling the short skirt over the base edge is done by shifting the fore finger and thumb to the base edge. I also run a small bead under the whole overhanging edge to glue the entire rolled in overhang. The dampness assists with the roll.

Then again with a tail-less patch, wet rolling the patch is easy anyway. The little dab of glue still works well with wet patching.

Perhaps try several of the techniques and see which works for you.

[edwin41]

i had some troubles with wet patching at first , the patches torn very easy.
now i wet a sponge , soaking wet , and put this in a container with some water in it.
i lay the patch on the sponge and gently tap on the patch with my fingertip , until i see some moist coming through the paper.
then i wrap , the paper is still strong enough for a tight fit , and i tear of the tail , wich leaves a small overhang .
this overhang i gently tap around the bulletsbase , then i let them drie.
the great advantage of wet patching in my opinion is that it shrinks round the bullet real thight.
then i put the patched bullets trough a sizer , and the lube in the sizer is a mix of 50/50 beeswax / vaseline.
it works great for me!

[edwin41]

oh, i forgot the most important step....at least for me.
you know those perforators that are used in offices for punching holes in paper so that the papers can be put in maps ?
well , its these discs of paper that are punched out that i wet and stick to the bulletsbase as a first step .
i use the discs that i punch out of some thicker paper , like those glossy magazines.
i truly believe that this is a very important step , i get great accurasy out of my patched bullets.

[Old Coot]

Metalshaper:
Before you start paper patching you should read the stickies at the start of this forum, particularily the one by Pdawg shooter.
If I may let me give you an idea on how to physically wet patch: I use tracing paper, and cut it on a paper cutter.
cut the strips across the bottom of the sheet (some do it long ways) about a 1/2" longer than from the start of the ogive of the bullet to the base. I cut about 30 degree angles (pointing opposite ways) of a length that will go just less than twice around the bullet. Wet the paper well. Tracing paper curls abominably when damp. Lay the patch on your rolling board with about the whole of the tail (angled section of the patch) hanging over the edge. Lay the bullet on the board at right angles to the patch with that 1/2" of paper sticking out past the base. Lift the angled piece of paper and lay it over the bullet. It should go about half way around. Put your finger on the paper and gently roll the bullet forward wrapping the patch around it as it goes. If the edges (angles) of the paper overlap start over with a shorter patch. The edges can come within about a 1/16" inch of each other , but must not overlap. Pick up the bullet and gently grasp the excess paper hanging passed the bullet base. Gently twist the paper or bullet until it gathers near itself and the bullet base. Twist too hard and you get to start all over again. Place the bullet upright in something that will hold it perpendicular and let dry over night. Trim the tail off -I use diagonal cutters- and load .
Good Luck
Brodie

[Goatwhiskers]

Ol' Coot explains it well. It's a gentle twist in the same direction as the wrap, just enough to keep the patch wrapped on the boolit. The one thing I do differently is to dry with a heat gun till the paper acquires a very light tan color, then allow to cool. I then give the dry tail a tight twist, clip, and twist down the remainder by putting the base of the boolit on a board and mashing down give the boolit a turn to tighten down the paper in the same direction as the original twist--hope that makes sense. I lube with JPW and done. GW