Load DataRotoMetals2WidenersMidSouth Shooters Supply
Titan ReloadingLee PrecisionRepackboxReloading Everything
PBcastco Inline Fabrication
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 28 of 28

Thread: Casting with my homemade lead hammer mold.

  1. #21
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Jeffersonville, Indiana
    Posts
    64
    I used the broken handle of a hammer upside down. Wrapped the end with friction tape for a grip and the other end wrapped with a thick rubber tape, then several layers of aluminum tape and then fiberglass tape for heat resistance. Drilled out the end with a 3/8 bit deep enough to tap three .38 special wadcutters in there then poured a bit of molten lead to seal them in. Makes a perfect thumper/sprue plate opener and bullet drop persuader for me.

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master GhostHawk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Fargo ND
    Posts
    7,070
    12" piece of 3/4" PVC tubing, clamped one end in the vise, heated with heat gun until I could bend it over to 90 degree's causing the pipe to pinch shut. Small piece of steel wool driven into the end as a stopper. Then added ladle fulls of hot lead until it felt right.

    Pvc takes some damage, but is easy on the molds. One rap on the sprue plate, another on the handles hinge and the boolits fall out. Quick, cheap, and if I need to I can grab a new piece of pipe, remelt the lead.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    TN
    Posts
    1,895
    I have an old axe handle that is still very solid even though it broke just below the head of the axe, rendering it useless for anything other than use as a heavy stick. I'm going to cut it down to a handier size one day but haven't done so yet.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master

    Rattlesnake Charlie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Victor, CO
    Posts
    1,376
    I save pieces of shovel/hammer/rake/etc pieces of broken handles. Work great for several thousand, then replaced by a new one. BTW, the beat-up-mallets make great firewood in the chimenea.

  5. #25
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,420
    There are diffrent hardnesses of rubber caps for cap hammers. I also have used a slimline 8 ounce dead blow hammer, it was really handy and useable. Carried a good puh thru type blow to the sprue plate. Im currently using a cap hammer with soft caps and its working good. I may play with a lead hammer here shortly I can easily make one up. My existing hammer mould is to big at almost 2 lbs wieght. But it wont take much to make one.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
    Lucky Joe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    533
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	039.jpg 
Views:	74 
Size:	20.3 KB 
ID:	162410I generally use a welding glove but I did make a Lead Hammer by drilling a hole in a 2X4 with a Forstner bit sticking a handle in and filling with lead.
    Lucky Joe
    "There's always a way."

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy Tazlaw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Conway, AR
    Posts
    193
    I’ve got some wooden table legs (oak) and plan on turning them down like a mini bat. Then drill out about a one inch hole in the top and fill it with melted lead. Then pin it in. Should work like a champ. When I make one, I’ll post a pic.
    Just knowing enough to do it, is not enough to do it right! -Taz

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,420
    The tee could be left intact and aluminum flashing wrapped around the ends and held with the pipe clamps use the same flat stock and c clamp to seal ends. lead shouldnt stick to the aluminum allowing it to peel of when cool. I would leave the lead ends 1/2"-3/4" proud of the tees ends. Utilizing the tee will support the head and the hammer socket will last much longer. Here a piece of flat stock 3/16" thick X size of tee wide drill several 1/8" hole thru end where its in tee and lead to lock in place I locking grooves can be filed or cut in with a hacksaw also) then attach wood scales to each side for the handle. Doing it this way I would consider adding a short piece of tubing in the tee to extend handle grip by an inch 1" to 1 1/2" for a better hold.
    A hammer seldom starts life with a flat face but is crowned so that te center is supported and higher. This last much longer. Making a couple caps from aluminum to the tee and have the crown in them would extend life.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check