What cures have been found for the tendency for Ruger rings to work loose? I've had this problem consistently with heavy recoiling rifles and revolvers.
Thanks, Tom
What cures have been found for the tendency for Ruger rings to work loose? I've had this problem consistently with heavy recoiling rifles and revolvers.
Thanks, Tom
and be sure to use blue not red if you ever want to remove it
I think I heard that the red will release with heat, perhaps from a pen type soldering gun. Can anyone tell me whether or not this is true?
Thanks
Bill
Micah 6:8
He hath shewed thee, O man, what is good; and what doth the LORD require of thee, but to do justly, and to love mercy, and to walk humbly with thy God?
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Use heat , along with a proper fitting 'driver to break red locktite loose.... Jim
Lot o' heat! I think I'd start with blue first and see if you really need more strength.
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434-1
Purple locktite, I have had some Ruger rings tight for over 20 years now. No heat needed.
Lotta people die in bed: Dangerous place to be!
Getting the lugs on the lower half centered in the grooves is a must. If not in position, recoil can move to a looser spot. I only use a quarter to tighten and never needed Loc-Tite.
I would have to differ on Ruger Rings not being the best Machined Parts. I removed My Leupold 1-5X VXIII from my GSR. Removed the rings, Installed the scope on My Ruger Guide Gun using the rings included with that gun. Zero from the last rifle transferred exactly to the new gun.
This would not have occurred if the rings weren't virtually identical, and the mounting points on the receivers weren't in the same relationship to the bore of the gun.
Keep in mind this was two completely different guns, and two completely different sets of Scope Rings with a different distance between the mounting points.
The only thing in Common was the scope.
The machining on Ruger guns is pretty damn consistent from gun to gun. Be willing to bet that different bolts would headspace correctly in different guns as well.
as far as the rings coming loose,,, If you torque the ring mountings to like 25 IP they won't come loose. If you really want to make sure some Blue Loctite or clear nail polish on the threads will work. I haven't had any come loose just using the torque wrench.
I have had $150 Leupold Rings come loose, and that's why I don't use them any more.
Randy
"It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com
I've lapped a few that had maybe 60% contact. The ones on my #1 .375 H&H being one set. The set on my brothers M77 Compact were not much better, but then again, the barrel was screwed on crooked, or the ring cuts were wrong, and 3 separate scopes ran out of windage adjustment before it could be zeroed. Must have been a Monday gun.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |