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Thread: Pyrodex

  1. #121
    Boolit Mold MikeA's Avatar
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    Thanks Don McDowell. That's what I figured. Seems the more I read the forum I start second guessing myself in some areas. Not a fan of Pyrodex but I want to try it and see what happens. Seriously need to make my own. Note I just need an hour to shoot it and a day to clean it.

  2. #122
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    That sounds a little excessive.

  3. #123
    Boolit Master
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    I get mine cleaned in about an hour.

  4. #124
    Boolit Grand Master Don McDowell's Avatar
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    MikeA , if you used a 70 gr volume measure , that's the way Pyrodex was designed to be used. The amount you compressed it falls right in line with Hogdons suggestion to compress 1/8 inch.
    Long range rules, the rest drool.

  5. #125
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    there's just too much fuss and hearsay about bp firearm clean up.

    WATER is either the only, or the main, ingredient required.

    i like to add in a bit of ballistol, others use windex or washer fluid or whatever.

    that's it, that's all. water. who'da thunk. it's actually easier than messing with smokeless, and less toxic.

    ymmv.
    "Owning a handgun doesn't make you armed any more than owning a guitar makes you a musician." - Jeff Cooper

  6. #126
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    Rfd what do you use for the fixed carbon left behind? Water does not touch it.
    KW

  7. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by texaswoodworker View Post
    There are very few smokeless loads available for either of those cartridges. I have tried one smokeless load in my Vetterli. very light charge of Trail Boss. It didn't shoot worth a darn. It may have shot better had I increased the charge, but I don't see a point in risking it when I can just use a substitute that already shoots much better.
    Not a fan of Trail Boss. Way to much pressure for the velocity. Some good smokeless loads in post 19. http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/...ire-conversion

  8. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenny Wasserburger View Post
    Rfd what do you use for the fixed carbon left behind? Water does not touch it.
    KW
    kenny - there's Never any in the barrel and chamber, so ... "fixed carbon" (hard 'n' crusty?) left where? in the action and receiver? baked on because it was never addressed? or that the brass was too hard and so there was blowback into the chamber and action?
    "Owning a handgun doesn't make you armed any more than owning a guitar makes you a musician." - Jeff Cooper

  9. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-Tecs View Post
    Not a fan of Trail Boss. Way to much pressure for the velocity. Some good smokeless loads in post 19. http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/...ire-conversion
    Some folks seem to want to relate those very anemic velocities from Trail Boss with low pressure and indeed I have talked with people who thought TB was a BP sub! Nothing could be farther from the truth and TB produces waaaaaay more pressure at some velocities vs some other slower burning smokeless powders, a look at Hodgdon's loading data could come as a big surprise to a lot of folks. There are of course several suitable smokeless powders/loads that will give similar to BP performance at less pressure but Trail Boss is certainly not one of them!

  10. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldred View Post
    Some folks seem to want to relate those very anemic velocities from Trail Boss with low pressure and indeed I have talked with people who thought TB was a BP sub! Nothing could be farther from the truth and TB produces waaaaaay more pressure at some velocities vs some other slower burning smokeless powders, a look at Hodgdon's loading data could come as a big surprise to a lot of folks. There are of course several suitable smokeless powders/loads that will give similar to BP performance at less pressure but Trail Boss is certainly not one of them!
    This is why I didn't like it in my Vetterli. The velocity was way too low. It's easier to use a BP sub in that gun and get similar velocity and pressure to the real stuff.

  11. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-Tecs View Post
    Not a fan of Trail Boss. Way to much pressure for the velocity. Some good smokeless loads in post 19. http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/...ire-conversion
    I'm very cautious about what loads I put in that gun, but I'll look into them. Thanks.

  12. #132
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    Fixed carbon you can not see, it is there water won't touch it, it is a film that does and will build up.

    KW

  13. #133
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

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    Try some Goop hand cleaner. It took moly out of my barrel, it may work on carbon.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  14. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenny Wasserburger View Post
    Fixed carbon you can not see, it is there water won't touch it, it is a film that does and will build up.

    KW
    where???

    i never have that in the barrel/chamber. not ever. i soften and partially push the fouling out of the tube with brush and patch after every shot, and then a total clean within hours of the last shot.

    action and receiver can be a different story, and that's why i take it all apart on a regular basis and scrub out the krap with a mixture of water and ballistol.
    "Owning a handgun doesn't make you armed any more than owning a guitar makes you a musician." - Jeff Cooper

  15. #135
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    Reading all these replies, i sense that different climates leaves different issues with powder residue in the barrel. I live in a dry climate...i shoot with pyrodex, powder fouling buildup has never been an issue. When i do my full blown cleanup, i also employ a bronze bore brush. Giving alot of attention to the breech end of my muzzleloader..... And i scrub til there is no more black water draining from the nipple hole. I also use 0000 steel wool with some oil and scrub that some too. Barrel still looks shiny like new. Hmmmmmmmmm, what am i doing wrong?

  16. #136
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    so here is an experiment to do with all you WATER n SOAP [or whatever you mix with your water]. take a bottle of some sort of an ammonia gun cleaner [ shooters choice ect ] and apply to a clean patch ... swab your blackpowder/sub shooting bore and allow to set for 5 minutes ... then with another clean patch swab the bore and observe the black brownish color on that new white cloth patch ... now repeat till there be no color on your clean patch's ... this is the "fixed carbon" that is mentioned. it is in every fire arm that shoots a combustible fuel.

    this can be a accuracy ruination after so many shots and ignored in whole or part. important also is the barrel conditioning needed after such a cleaning is finished ... a good oil is a must and I apply some good ol Hopps #9 before I apply the good preserving oil to the bore and action. this way the BARE metal is continuously protected from all putrid applications of whatever residue is left behind.

    I did not believe it either until I did a deep clean on my modern rifle that had non other then GOEX thrown thru the barrel in a combustion application and was sure that I had it super clean and never put it away with any dirt whatsoever ... but I was wrong with the carbon ... now thusely I deep clean every 3 or 4 times I load and shoot the weapons I relish and love to continue to fool with.
    WHEN ALL IS SAID AND DONE...MORE WILL BE SAID THEN DONE

  17. #137
    Quote Originally Posted by GOPHER SLAYER View Post
    Anybody use Pyrodex and if so' what do you think of it?
    It works fine, gets the job done. Just started making bp now so I'll be using the real deal from now on

  18. #138
    Quote Originally Posted by usmc1963 View Post
    make the bp yourself its not hard to do
    Right on bud

  19. #139
    Boolit Master Walkingwolf's Avatar
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    I use both Pyro, and BP. BP is fun, but for me Pyro in hunting, or self defense loads perform. I use RS in both pistols, and rifles, and cartridges. All are a tightly compressed load. With my 1858 Remy I consistently get over 1000fps with the RS compressed load. The guns get cleaned after every use. If it is a SD shooting your gun is junk, it does not matter whether it is black, or pyro. The police will keep the gun for evidence, and it will be rusted to no repair after a month. So I don't see the fuss, ya like BP, use BP. Like Pyro, use Pyro, or use both. Pyro is easier to get at most LGS, it works, and gives the velocity I need. I use Goex and it comes no where close for SD, and hunting.

    America is the great land of free choice, well for now it is. Exercise that free choice.

  20. #140
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    I use C2R for getting rid of the fixed carbon.


    For fine firearms and shooting requisites visit my Web Site by clicking the link below:

    Pukka Bundhooks

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check