I wanta get a uberti/taylor and start learning this.
http://www.waxbullet.com/
I wanta get a uberti/taylor and start learning this.
http://www.waxbullet.com/
I used to shoot those years ago with regular magnum pistol primers they were quite cool! Go right slam through 5-6 layers of cardboard box. Can only imagine what they would do with a 209 primer!
A buddy used to cookie cutter cheese into his primed cases, bout the same.
Hmmm I bet you could firelap with those!
Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.
A LP primer will drive a wax bullet plenty fast just open the flash holes up to around .100 or so. Another trick is seat the bullet before priming. a primed case airlocks and pushes the bullet back out. Make a tay the depth as the length of the bullet chamfer case mouths and cut bullets out with the cases. I loaded alot of wax bullet 38 specials, only comfortable load in my smith scandium titanium j frame lol. Cases normally dont need sized just deprime clean seat bullet and reprime. Also mark cases so they dont get mixed in with powder loads as the flash hole mod is an issue. The flash hole mod keeps primers from backing out anf tying up the gun
I've done this too, with regular pistol primers. It was always repeated to keep the cases separate after opening flash holes so they don't get a normal load in them. I wonder if this got repeated so often it became fact because the green primed .45 ACP factory loads have large flash holes and the people that make the cases say reloading them with normal primers and normal loads is not a problem.
Rule 303
Agreed. Tons of fun.
BUT
you still need good ventilation. Don't just "do it in the basement". There are lead and mercury in primers and is in the air you'll be breathing.
Lots of fun......fumes are really BAD! Do it outside or with realy GOOD indoor ventillation.
You will need to use "shooting wax" and not just parafin to get performance and get away from brittleness. PM me for formula.....if I can find it! Been a couple years since I made a batch. You can recover and remelt the spent rounds.
I go one step further and actually cast hot melt glue boolits in my 45 molds. Load them just like their lead brothers! If you want more info, PM me. There are many threads on here about it.
banger
I just found this article in American Rifleman online so give credit where it's due...
Wax Bullet Recipe
1 lb. paraffin (available at your local grocery store)
1/4 lb. beeswax (available at your local craft store)
1/8 lb. water pump grease (Lubriplate No. 115 grease works well)
1 flat pan (a cake pan works well)
1 old pot or double-boiler to melt the wax and mix in the grease
Airplanes and guns should always be made out of metal.
Glad you found one.
That's one of MANY different formulas I have seen. Not the one I used to use, but will work much better than straight wax.
banger
Alot of good tips, gonna buy some at first. l want one of those step reamers for ss primers.
Just drill out the flash hole and forget the SS primers. Normal primers have always worked very well for me in all cals.
banger
I painted the case heads (of fired cases) black, resized & deprimed, drilled out the primer pockets. These were with .38 Special brass. Use Magnum primers.
I hear they're pretty effective on mice and other critters.
If you want to "be effective" with small critters, try casting your wax or HMG in your molds and adding a 1/4" slingshot steel ball (walmart) in the nose. Round nose molds work great.
And add about a grain or so of fast powder. The weight in the nose gives better accuracy and force.
Still not quite as loud as slapping 2 big text books together.
banger
Somewhere in my "good stuff" pile, I have a bunch of .38 cal plastic bullets. All you need is some primed .38 spcl cases. The downside, I don't have anything to shoot them out of.
here is some great information for those wanting to use this form of shooting. We use these for fast draw competition.
http://www.cowboyfastdraw.com/secure...ategory_id=167
Attachment 121026
The rules of the range are simple at best, Should you venture in that habitat, Don't cuss a man's dog, be good to the cook, And don't mess with a cowboy's hat. ~ Baxter Black
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |