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Thread: Wanta start this project(45colt)-wax

  1. #1
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    Question Wanta start this project(45colt)-wax

    I wanta start this project next with quick draw 45 colt: Does anyone make there on primer hole in brass for shotshell primer or do you just buy em? The wax bullets are cheap enough.


  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    It looks like there're drilled and counter bored so the primer sits flush. 50 would last a long time. For that money I'd buy them.
    http://www.cowboyfastdraw.com/secure...oduct_id=29802

  3. #3
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    Years ago I did something similar, drilled the flash hole slightly bigger and marked about a dozen 44 mag cases. Prime and push them through a block of canning wax. Can't imagine they would be that much different from this and a whole lot cheaper.

  4. #4
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    I wonder if I should add those to what I do, they wont be nickel though...
    Click to see what I'm doing and have available, this takes you to the VS (Vendor Sponsor) section of the site. Currently..25Rem,30Rem, 32Rem, 35Rem, 257Roberts, 358Win, 338Fed, 357 Herrett, 30 Herrett, 401 Winchester, 300Sav, 221 Fireball, 260Rem, 222Rem, 250 Savage, 8mm Mauser (AKA 8x57), 25-20WCF

    Annealing Services

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/foru...php?117-Grumpa






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    Why 209 primers? I was under the impression the 209's are basically large pistol primers with a self contained anvil. I guess 209s were more available the last couple years versus LPP, but I was curious for the reasoning with this.

    EDIT: After some further reading it seems it is mostly for ease of loading/reloading the brass, rather than the power of the primer for propulsion.
    Last edited by Geppetto; 10-31-2014 at 02:00 PM.

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    I use mag primers or standard primers. Drill out the flash hole to ~1/8". Paint the ends red so I know they are NOT standard cases. Load up with shooting wax blend or HMG boolits I cast and shoot away.

    I use 209's for shot shells.

    I also sometimes add about 1gn or so of fast pistol powder to give them a bit more power and accuracy. Still about as loud as slamming two big text books together.

    Watch the dangerous fumes if shooting inside!

    banger

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bangerjim View Post
    I use mag primers or standard primers. Drill out the flash hole to ~1/8". Paint the ends red so I know they are NOT standard cases. Load up with shooting wax blend or HMG boolits I cast and shoot away.

    banger
    HMG? Wassat?

  8. #8
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    HMG = hot melt glue

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    Quote Originally Posted by bangerjim View Post
    HMG = hot melt glue
    ah, thanks! The only HMG i could think of was "Heavy Machine Gun", and that didn't seem to fit.

  10. #10
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    Remember.....all things are not gun-related!!!!!

    If you are lucky, the sticks of HMG you get will fit tightly in a 45 case and you can just trim them off! HMG stiicks vary in diameter and if I remember, the ones HF sells are the right size, but you know how thier sourcing can run wild! Other brands may fit, but I have some from HD & Lowes that do not go in.

    banger

  11. #11
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    I have used (many years ago) paraffin wax bullets. Take a .38 special case, drill the flash hole to 1/8" size, melt wax in a cake pan to about the depth of a 148 gr. wadcutter bullet stood on its nose, let it cool to harden, insert a magnum pistol primer into the case, push the case mouth to the bottom of the pan. You now have a loaded 38 special case. I have shot these loads up to 25 feet but never farther. Bill Jordan use to use this load in stage shooting for audiences at something like 12 to 15 feet. Shooting aspirins, no less. I imagine the larger cases would work also although I never tried anything larger than .38 special. my experience anyway, james

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy 2AMMD's Avatar
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    Look for the thread "casting hot glue bullets" on this site. It's easy, cheap, and fun.
    2AMMD

  13. #13
    Boolit Master BNE's Avatar
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    Why do you need to drill out the primer hole?
    I have made a few of these and just used a regularly primed case. Seemed to work just fine, but I was just playing, I did not check for accuracy or real distance.
    I'm a Happy Clinger.

  14. #14
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    Nothing to do with accuracy. There is hardly any accuracy anyway with wax or HMG!!!!!!!

    Believe it or not, with only the primer and no powder, many times the pressures will back out the primer! Somewhere sometime someone on here explained exactly why that happens. OK if you are not using a revolver.

    The ones I did NOT drill out, all the shells stuck in the cylinder and I had a horrible time geting them out and getting it to rotate.

    Drilling them out solves the problem for me and many others it seems. If you are not using a revolver, do not worry about it. It does not make any difference to my carbine rifles....obviously.

    banger

  15. #15
    Boolit Master BNE's Avatar
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    OK, that makes sense.... I did have the primer back out and it was hard to open the cylinder.
    I'm a Happy Clinger.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by TNsailorman View Post
    I have used (many years ago) paraffin wax bullets. Take a .38 special case, drill the flash hole to 1/8" size, melt wax in a cake pan to about the depth of a 148 gr. wadcutter bullet stood on its nose, let it cool to harden, insert a magnum pistol primer into the case, push the case mouth to the bottom of the pan. You now have a loaded 38 special case. I have shot these loads up to 25 feet but never farther. Bill Jordan use to use this load in stage shooting for audiences at something like 12 to 15 feet. Shooting aspirins, no less. I imagine the larger cases would work also although I never tried anything larger than .38 special. my experience anyway, james
    I have a Potter tool that was designed to do the same thing! It was made in the 50-60s. Potter described its use for indoor practice, such as in the winter months. I should post a few pictures of it.
    Jon

  17. #17
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    I didn't drill the flash hole and my model 85 would jam right up. I gave up after that. The 209 brass did it even worse.Upon firing the primer pushes itself out against the firing pin then the powder burns pushing the brass back over the primer. Without the powder the primer sticks out

  18. #18
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    Anyone that has primed brass knows some brass primes easy, some primes harder. Just in the tollerances of the pockets by the maker.

    What I did - - - when priming brass, I marked the end of ones that went in nice and snug with a green Sharpie so I could remember which ones were "tighties" after being fired normally. Those I segregated and drilled out for wax and HMG loading. I have about 40 of them in 45LC and 38 SPL each. All other cals are used in semi's and no worry about the cylinder getting jammed by the backed-out primer. ( And, no....they do not cycle, so do not even ask!) So no dirlling required.

    Not a one has ever backed out!

    banger

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check