Questions with Silicate of Soda

[Reg]

I understand that years ago this was the chosen material to seal the top wad when loading brass shells and it was quite common, sometimes called "egg keep" because people would dip eggs in it to form a air tight barrier around the shell and prolong the shelf life.
Evidently it isn't a common item any more. Did find a small bottle at the local drug store but they had a price of $18.00 on it so I thought they must have needed it far more than I did.
Somewhere along the line of not paying attention I think I read where there is a new use for the stuff dealing somehow with concrete. If it is being used in construction then surely it should not be such a precious and high priced item.
Anyone know anything about this ??
What are you using to seal the top wad with ?

I tried several model airplane glues with limited success. It just dosn't seem to get a good grip on the brass and the wad will sometimes pop loose in your pocket--- sure makes a mess and the shell is useless.

Any ideas ??

[Cap'n Morgan]

You are probably looking for sodium silicate or "water glass"

http://www.amazon.co.uk/500ml-Water-.../dp/B00BVZ66JC

[oldlincoln]

I think you are talking about water glass. You can make it up from silica gel beads and sodium hydroxide (lye) diluted with water. Roughly, 10ml water, 4g lye and 6g of crushed silica gel beads. Be very careful with the sodium hydroxide, one drop of solution will blind an eye. Google is your friend, look up sodium silicate or water glass.

[RMc]

U.S. source:

https://www.lehmans.com/p-297-water-....aspx?show=all

[wills]

http://www.pqcorp.com/pc/North-Ameri...licate-Liquids

Also see

http://www.skylighter.com/mall/produ...campaign=SOSAL

lots of interesting stuff there.

[waksupi]

Ebay or Amazon. I think our local hardware store carries it as a concrete finish.

[mac60]

I use silicone caulk. Well - you asked.

[Reg]

I use silicone caulk. Well - you asked.

How does it seem to work ? Do the shells stand up to being carried in a pocket ? Did you leave a little extra depth to the top wad to allow for the thickness of the caulk ?

Appreciate the replys coming in.

[mac60]

It works fine for me. I did leave a little room at the mouth of the shell for the caulk. These 20 ga. shells have been loaded for several years and carried squirrel hunting several times. I used an 18 ga. over shot card - so it's a good tight fit to begin with.

Attachment 119875

[Reg]

Well, I tried out what mac60 had to say with using caulk on a box of 50 410 brass shells loaded several years ago and using the glue that I was at the time, the top wad was no longer held in place and shot was running all over the bottom of the box.
Cleaned the mess up, reloaded the shot and dropped in the top wad and did keep it about 1/16" below the top of the shell. Used a clear silicone caulk that we had been using on the house prior to painting. Let sit over night and all I can say is think I have a new way of doing things. Looks like it will hold forever ( 35 years or so thats what it said on the tube !! ) and the appearance is great. If it had a downfall it would be the fact it has to sit over night.
I checked into the concrete sealers and yes we have them but most are around $35.00 or so a tub and not only is the price more than I wanted to put into the project but what ever would I do with a tub full of the stuff.
Most of the other products worked out to around $18.00 a pint more or less.
The tube of silicon caulk was $3.75 for the tube , for 50 shells I didn't even use a good squirt and rather than the remainder going bad in the tube I will just go out and fill a few more cracks in the north siding.
Thanks mac60. Great idea !!!!!!!

[DLCTEX]

I use Dap Tub and Tile caulk in a resealable squeeze tube for $4.95. Some rounds I did 3 years ago are holding well.

[Reg]

I use Dap Tub and Tile caulk in a resealable squeeze tube for $4.95. Some rounds I did 3 years ago are holding well.

Will give it a try. Just proves there is more than one way to skin a cat. We need to keep our minds open and be willing to give something new a try.

[mac60]

Well, I tried out what mac60 had to say with using caulk on a box of 50 410 brass shells loaded several years ago and using the glue that I was at the time, the top wad was no longer held in place and shot was running all over the bottom of the box.
Cleaned the mess up, reloaded the shot and dropped in the top wad and did keep it about 1/16" below the top of the shell. Used a clear silicone caulk that we had been using on the house prior to painting. Let sit over night and all I can say is think I have a new way of doing things. Looks like it will hold forever ( 35 years or so thats what it said on the tube !! ) and the appearance is great. If it had a downfall it would be the fact it has to sit over night.
I checked into the concrete sealers and yes we have them but most are around $35.00 or so a tub and not only is the price more than I wanted to put into the project but what ever would I do with a tub full of the stuff.
Most of the other products worked out to around $18.00 a pint more or less.
The tube of silicon caulk was $3.75 for the tube , for 50 shells I didn't even use a good squirt and rather than the remainder going bad in the tube I will just go out and fill a few more cracks in the north siding.
Thanks mac60. Great idea !!!!!!!

You're welcome. It wasn't my idea though. I picked it up from a youtube video. I'm glad it worked out for you.

[Reg]

Life is full of learning experiences.
Don't ask, it was a stupid thing for sure but I managed to crack the outside mirror on the RH side of my old fishing car. Some time back I noticed in the glass shop at the local lumber yard the fellow working in there that day had cut a replacement mirror for a outside mirror on someone else s car. I wandered in and asked if the could cut a replacement for mine. In no time at all they had one cut. It's simply amazing what one can do with glass if you only know how. Kind of like flying the space shuttle.
Anyway I asked OK, now how do I put it in. No problem was the answer, just clean out all the old glass and adhesive residue and glue in the new with silicon caulk !!
It seems in many trades that silicon caulk is actually treated as an adhesive.
Amazing stuff.

[woody1]

FWIW, I use fingernail polish to seal the top wads for my 410. Can color code loads too. Regards, Woody

[derbyduck]

Hi guys over this side of the pond we still use big guns for wildfowling and most reloaders use brass cases made to fit their guns ,I use reworked 30mm orlikan rounds for my 2bore and built the barrel of my 4bore round the 1inch brass very pistol signaling rounds that still seem to be plentyfull at arms fairs and the odd ones pop up at boot sales, most guys use silicone chalking to seal their carts leave a 16th to an 8th below the rim and the over shot card and leave to cure ,a guy told me that he used a hot glue gun but I aint found the need to ,
I hope this is of help to you guys and I wish you straight powder,DD

[beagle]

I used the sodium silicate (water glass) some years ago to seal 12 gauge loads using 11 gauge over shot wads. I marked the shot size and then applied the water glass. As I recall, it set up over night and made a good, waterproof seal. I had no problems with it breaking loose or leaking shot after being carried in a hunting coat for a while.

The drawback as I recall was that it was slightly corrosive around the area where it contacted the brass. Not to the point of making it unsuitable if the brass cases were cleaned properly and promptly but they did turn green in this area if left unattended for a while./beagle

[skeettx]

Elmer's School Glue
Stays soft does well under recoil

Mike

[smoked turkey]

Almost two years ago I wanted to reload some 16 ga brass shotshells and seal the over shot wad with waterglass just as was done decades ago. I settled on a product from the local auto parts store called Seal-Up. It is used to repair engine blocks, radiators, heater cores, and the like. They had it in two sizes and I purchased the 22.8 ounce size. I should have purchased the small size as it is a several life times supply for me at least. It is also listed as liquid glass metallic. It is sodium silicate with small metal particles suspended in the liquid glass. Setting on the shelf you will see the metallic particles settled to the bottom of the plastic jar. I screened mine through a paint cone filter in order to get the liquid glass by itself. I did this twice and ended up with what appears just the liquid glass. I put some in a small squeeze bottle that dispenses the liquid one drop at a time. It works great. The ones I have are still in very good shape.

[Abert Rim]

I have also gotten decent results with Duco Cement.