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Thread: rust removal

  1. 10-20-2014, 11:46 AM #1
    bigarm
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    rust removal

    After I used my Hardline molds the first time, I put some Bullplate on them as it was handy on the bench at the time. I was told not to use it in that way and to remove it with acetone, which I did. I then scrubbed with Dawn and let dry. I didn't bother with them for a few days. Yesterday when I was moving them to use the bench they were on I noticed some rust on them. It was only in the grooves where the handles go and in the set screw holes. I put some oil on them yesterday and left them on the bench. I haven't checked today, but if it is still there, what is the best way to easily remove it? I don't think it is a big problem because it isn't in the inside of the mold, but would like to take care of it.
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  2. 10-20-2014, 01:42 PM #2
    Ben
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    Some 0000 steel wool wrapped around a Q Tip and dipped in your oil and a good scrubbing in the rusted areas should remove the rust after your previous treatment with oil.
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  3. 10-21-2014, 04:47 AM #3
    dromia
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    Rub with a pencil and wipe of with a rubber.


    For fine firearms and shooting requisites visit my Web Site by clicking the link below:

    Pukka Bundhooks
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  4. 10-22-2014, 07:00 AM #4
    bobthenailer
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    Evaporust.
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  5. 10-22-2014, 10:07 AM #5
    Hardline
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    WD-40 and green scotch brite pads is what we use. The other ideas along with 0000 steel wool should work too. If you use steel wool, stay away from the cavities with it because steel wool can round the edges. The Hensley & Gibbs mold manual is available in this thread: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...d-Users-Manual I would highly recommend reading it as there is a lot of good casting and mold maintenance information.
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  6. 10-22-2014, 11:24 AM #6
    bigarm
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardline View Post
    WD-40 and green scotch brite pads is what we use. The other ideas along with 0000 steel wool should work too. If you use steel wool, stay away from the cavities with it because steel wool can round the edges. The Hensley & Gibbs mold manual is available in this thread: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...d-Users-Manual I would highly recommend reading it as there is a lot of good casting and mold maintenance information.
    No rust in the cavities, just the outside where the handles attach. Thought they would dry on their own, guess I should have heated them to dry them. I will check out the link. Thanks. Has the new mold been tested yet?
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  7. 10-23-2014, 10:10 AM #7
    Hardline
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    Yes. It's sitting on the shipping table ready to go out today.
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  8. 10-23-2014, 11:27 AM #8
    bigarm
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    Nice!
    I posted a picture of my powder coated 40's from your mold in the coatings subforum. I think they look pretty good.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check