Bill did you make the set trigger group on the 85 from scratch or a cast kit? I am mostly curious about the original design having a hole through the set trigger spring for the tang screw? LB
From Scratch, I was lucky to get a set of prints from ruddy prusik of the Single Shot Rifle Exchange. The butt plate and finger lever are castings, they are just to much machining, they came from Tools International, of Texas, but I think Bud has passed and they are out of business. There is a tang screw hole in the trigger spring but it is in the thick base, do you need spec for that part? Bill T
Would like to have the specs on that spring if not too much trouble. When you have time would also like to have your process for anneal and re temper spring material correctly. THANKS LB
If you are interested in building a highwall then this set of drawings is a VERY good investment, I have a friend building one from these (off and on build that's lately been more off than on however) and I was quite impressed with them. They are very crisply printed and detailed right down to screws, pins and springs and they have full dimensions and details of the single trigger, single set trigger and double set triggers. In fact just going over that print with him I can't see a thing that's been omitted, there is one plans set that floated around a while back that supposedly had several errors such as the pin/screw hole locations in the receiver, particularly the sear pin location which has reportedly been as much as .050" off but that error does not exist on these. When I learned of it I called him to check this and everything was spot on!
For thirty bucks this is well worth the cost,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Winchester-1...item2597c37d53
Hope these help, I included a drawing of the Fix brothers idea of a high wall, easier build because the hammer pivots in the frame. I use oil hardening material for springs, just polish well, heat to a red heat till it starts to sparkle, quench immediately in oil, cool, polish and reheat with a softer flame until you obtain a bluish purple color then allow to cool slowly. do a test piece until you have it right, there is no getting lucky. place your finished test piece in a vise and tap it with a mallet, you will know when you have arrived. Anytime I can help, don't hesitate. Bill T
Thank you both. LB
I have been going to ebay and copying pictures of the various action parts.
Drawings are nice and I've been using them for some time.
However sometimes a good clear picture or pictures of different perspective is very useful.
Am using a CNC software tool for my drawings which allows me to visualize components together.
Only problem I have is staying on task. Actually trying to work too many tasks may be more accurate!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |