Montana's argument against comes from FWP for big game hunting. They fear not hearing a shot reduces their ability to enforce.
Montana's argument against comes from FWP for big game hunting. They fear not hearing a shot reduces their ability to enforce.
[The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze
Someone needs to stand up to these goons and their outdated thinking. I'd like to see them supply some data showing how many poachers they have caught in the last FIFTY years that have used a suppressor of any type. Then have them show the data for how many hunters have been stalked or charged by grizzlies who have learned to seek out the source of a gunshot for an easy meal.
I'll be a nice to you as you'll let me be, or as mean as you make me be.
Polite society started dying the day it was no longer necessary for rude men to physically defend themselves from the consquences of their actions or words.
The realnlow cost no noise no nonsense game getter I've ever used is a crossbow! From hogs to deer to feral cats. Is getting food without letting anyone know your even there its great and nfa/fed tax or stamp no name on a list. Sorry if ya just meant firearms but I dealt with the same issue you are asking about and have had amazing success! Still love my stick bows and compounds but the flat bow is much easier to master and as accurate as any center fire with in its range, which on mine is 70 yards that's as far as I can keep all bolts on a 4 inch plate. Used ones are relatively cheap just ask to.fire it first and look over it good. Shot a woodchuck with mime out the back door in the garden once, wife and daughter were in the living room 15 feet away and and they only looked back cause they heard a thwack. Any game out to 70 yards and no noise says winner winner venision dinner.
je suis charlie
It is better to live one day as a LION than a dozen days as a Sheep.
Thomas Jefferson Quotations:
"The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government."
I realize that. Just giving out facts. 3 months ago might be considered "frequent." 3 years is enough time to change the map. Still a handy resource though.
I was surprised to see just how many states did allow hunting with suppressors. I would have thought it was considerably fewer. Quite an eye opener.
Boone and Crockett Club member
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Pope & Young Club member
Are the large bore air rifles legal in Cali. I have done no research on them, but they just might be the ticket in overly urban areas.
getting off the silencer thing for a second.
how would a radically back bore long barrel 22lr or such sound compared to normal.
always wanted to try something like that as those muzzle assessories are ill eagle over the pond here and mucho big trouble.
the 300blackout is quiet, it hits hard, is accurate and is like a dream come true for us boolit casters. I don't think there is any other way to go outside of a rimfire. of course I do hear those 38 caliber airguns are getting pretty powerful.
http://www.airgundepot.com/benjamin-rogue-bpe3571.html
but for 1500 bucks, I would rather just go suppressed
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBAF...ion_2087162169
I duno, second though, this thing is pretty hardcore
Last edited by skizzums; 10-22-2014 at 01:14 AM.
So.. While silencers are cool and all....
They do add another level of expense and regulation to the issue... I am not really convinced that they are necessary for quiet hunting.... They also raise concerns when they are seen by neighbors...
So... Google up the old Gun-mag articles by Harvey Donaldson... He was a back-east hunter and was a huge proponent of compact and quiet rifles for hunting in populated places.... For him - a 10-acre woodlot next to town was "Big" and shots were typically well inside of 50 yards.... He and P.O. Ackley went round and round and round - and eventually Ackley with his bigger, hotter magnums won out - and now everybody thinks a 30-06 is just too small to hunt squirrels in the back yard....
As you say - when you are hunting around houses - not bothering folks or shaking windows is a real big plus... The limited distance for the shot travelling is another....
Gun wise - I would start with whatever you already have.... 30-30, 7.62x39, pistol carbine, etc....
Go for under 1,000 fps
Go for heavy bullets rather than light....
small charges of pistol or fast shotgun powder...
You likely need to drill out the flash holes for proper ignition...
Another thing that helps is a *Very* compact single shot rifle that's easily concealed.... Nothing creeps out neighbors like somebody roaming around with a gun.... but something "Antique" looking doesn't have the same effect... like say an ancient looking lever action or something that looks like an ancient single barrel shotgun.... Iron sights also tone down the "Look" of the gun... and generally - you don't need a scope inside of 50 yards...
Once you get them down below 800 fps - they just go *pop* when the gun goes off... It sounds like a kid's pop-cork gun and it doesn't arouse suspicions....
But... those heavy bullets still penetrate just fine, especially up close....
Thanks
Pat, look over here http://www.leverguns.com
Finished my form 1 paperwork, and efiled last week. Well, so far my wait has been more than 9 hours....
I just recently finished a form 1 suppressor, applied mid-august and got approved mid-september, total time was about 30 days.
Here are pics of my quiet hunter, shown next to my Rem 700 with a standard length barrel (22"), they are the same length with the suppressor attached. The pump gun is currently a 35 Remington, soon to be a 358 Win, but I'm using it for heavy subsonic loads with the suppressor, 255gr @ 1000 fps, which I hope to try on deer this season. The suppressor has a quick-detach system, using an interrupted thread on the muzzle brakes and flash hiders I've made for several of my rifles, so it locks on with 1/6th turn, and only takes a second to attach or remove.
I made a D-reamer in the shape of the bullet I wanted, and reamed out an old Lee mold. Came out at 270gr solid, but the hollow point brings it back down to 255gr. Expansion is impressive, and the sound of impact on meat or water jugs is the loudest part of the shot. I'm loading this over a light charge of Bullseye; also doing the same with a couple 9mm/357 molds in 105gr and 158gr. Regardless if you're using a suppressor or not, the fast powders like Bullseye are the way to go for a quiet subsonic load.
(this pic shows my 255gr boolit in 38 Spl and 35 Whelen brass, but I'm mainly loading it in 35 Rem.)
VERY Cool. Would you mind sharing some more specifics about the can you built? I'm wanting to build a couple of my own. Once I find a design I think I can replicate with my meager machine skills I will submit a form 1. I looked at the designs using freeze plugs for baffles and chainlink fence posts for a body, but I imagine they would be HEAVY.
I'll be a nice to you as you'll let me be, or as mean as you make me be.
Polite society started dying the day it was no longer necessary for rude men to physically defend themselves from the consquences of their actions or words.
All the more reason to do a SBR. I was looking at the Apogee products stainless tube with threads on the inside, but as you mention it is heavy. Another company will have steel end caps available in a week or so allowing use in full power rifles. You can use aluminum tubes, and end-caps to save weight, but I would not use them for anything more than subsonic, or pistols. There has been aluminum used in full power loads before, but I would not want to risk the thing turning into a grenade. Everything you need can be purchased on ebay now with the approval of solvent traps by the BATF. Sounds strange to me because I was always under the impression that if you had the parts laying around it was constructive intent. Things must have changed somewhere, but I will stick with what I remember the law being. I will be doing a 30 cal can, and using it on my 300 Blackout pistol. Don't quite know the direction I am going with the build yet so I just put it in as 7.62mm, and 12" long. I know for a fact it will not be longer than that when done, and I can make it shorter than what is listed, but not longer.
Give us some detail on your can Yondering! I like the attachment point end cap. That boolit would work great in the 358 MGP. I have been tinkering with the idea of getting that barrel and die combo, and going to a 35 cal. They are getting 358 Win performance out of a 16" barrel with that thing, and it is darn accurate too. It will need a can as well.
Last edited by xacex; 10-23-2014 at 01:17 PM.
My can is a mix of aluminum and stainless, 9"x1.5", and the baffle stack consists mostly of clipped cones. I made it with a series of short spacers between baffles, so I can re-arrange them (no extra parts) and play with baffle spacing. I was surprised at the differences in performance with different baffle spacing; one way was very quiet for all but the first shot, with lots of first round pop, another way was more high pitched with no first round pop. I've settled on a moderately sized blast chamber and progressive baffle spacing (baffles closer together at the exit) for a setup that's as quiet as I can get it without any significant first round pop.
So far I've been using it on subsonic 357 rifle, 35 Whelen, 35 Remington, and 300 Blackout, and supersonic 300 Blackout. I also intend to make or buy a booster to use it on my 9mm Glock, and will use it on my 9mm Storm carbine when I get around to machining the new barrel (bought one cheap with 4-5 bullets stuck in the barrel).
I was pleasantly surprised how quiet it is on full power 300 Blackout from the 9" barrel on my AR15; it's louder than a 22 rifle, but quieter than a 22 pistol, and comfortable for me to shoot without hearing protection. That's with 110gr bullets @ 2150 fps.
Here's a pic of machining the flash hider for my 300 Blk that this can attaches to, the tool in the pic was used to cut the interruptions in the 7/8-28 tpi thread.
Same interrupted thread concept on my Browning Buckmark barrel. It's fairly easy to do, but each barrel must be clocked to the device that threads on, so they mate together properly:
The most advanced part of building a suppressor is threading; if you can single-point thread on a lathe, you can build everything else easily. If you can't thread on a lathe, you can still build a welded suppressor, which can be stronger anyway if done right.
I wouldn't use freeze plugs myself; if you have lathe access, simple cones are relatively easy to make, and work well.
If you use a bow no one will hear.
If you think your a hammer everything looks like a nail.
Awesome pics! Can we see pics of your baffles and the spacers, and how they are arranged? Thanks.
I'll be a nice to you as you'll let me be, or as mean as you make me be.
Polite society started dying the day it was no longer necessary for rude men to physically defend themselves from the consquences of their actions or words.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |