Inline FabricationMidSouth Shooters SupplyRotoMetals2Load Data
Reloading EverythingWidenersLee PrecisionRepackbox
Titan Reloading Snyders Jerky
Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: How long to cool before taking them off?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    MT
    Posts
    479

    How long to cool before taking them off?

    I think I am going to try powder coating with my Harbor Freight gun today. After cooking how long do I let the bullets cool before taking them off of the aluminum foil? Any other last minute helpful hints?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    719
    I always let mine sit long enough that I didn't get burned. Maybe 5 or 10 minutes.

  3. #3
    Vendor Sponsor

    Smoke4320's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Right here ..at least I was a minute ago
    Posts
    5,049
    when they are cool to the touch .. If you try taking them off before they are cooled you will sometimes tear the foil because the flashing wants to stick to the foil.. once cool they generally snap right off
    [SIZE=4][B]Selling Hi Quality Powdercoating Powder

    I carry a Nuke50 because cleaning up the mess is Silly !!

    http://www.bing.com/search?q=nuke50&...7ADE&FORM=QBLH

    I am not crazy my mom had me tested

    Theres a fine line between genius and crazy .. I'm that line
    and depending on the day I might just step over that line !!!

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    10,585
    I drop in H2O, so immediately. AC, just let them set till cool to the touch - they don't dent that way.
    Mine are on a flat plate so they (mostly) drop from gravity. I don't cook on the spray tray, haven't changed the foil in >3 months.
    When I was cooking on the spray tray, I pulled them off as soon as I could as I got much less flash & foil tearing.
    Last edited by popper; 10-19-2014 at 02:27 PM.
    Whatever!

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


    Walter Laich's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Cypress, Republic of Texas
    Posts
    3,495
    Quote Originally Posted by Smoke4320 View Post
    when they are cool to the touch .. If you try taking them off before they are cooled you will sometimes tear the foil because the flashing wants to stick to the foil.. once cool they generally snap right off
    that's the way I do it.
    NRA Life
    USPSA L1314
    SASS Life 48747
    RVN/Cambodia War Games, 2nd Place

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

    Idz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    New Mexico
    Posts
    842
    The powder coat is actually a chemical reaction. The resulting coating won't melt at the cure temperatures. The coating is tough and won't be damaged by handling.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

    mdi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So. Orygun
    Posts
    7,240
    I wait 'till there is no knee-jerk, screaming reaction when I touch the cured bullets...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  8. #8
    Boolit Master Jupiter7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Dyer, TN
    Posts
    1,307
    A minute or 2 tops. I just let them fall off with gravity. I only have one bake tray so I'm ready to get the next one started.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    out of here, wandering somewhere in the SW.
    Posts
    10,163
    Cool to the touch. To speed that up I put the trays in front of my outdoor evap cooler.

    They just almost fall off after that.

    bangerjim

  10. #10
    Boolit Master el34's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    N Texas
    Posts
    1,190
    Does anybody pull/dump them off while still hot but just after the pc has become solid, solely for the purpose of preventing the flange thing?
    "The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule." --H. L. Menchen

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    out of here, wandering somewhere in the SW.
    Posts
    10,163
    I only start to get the "flang thing" on the 3-4th use of the NSAF. I just throw it away and put down a new piece!

    If you remove while still warm/pliable, you may have exposed lead at the bottom where it tears off? Never did it that way. I always wipe (literally) them off the racks when they are cold. As long as there is only an itsy-bitsy-teeny-weenie flange (!) I let the size die take it off. I have not seen any damage in the coating at the base doing that.

    Remember, PC even when cold, is still semi-flexible (that's why it does not shatter in the size die and barrel and hammer test) and will squeeze/flow in around the base if there is a tiny space left exposed where the flange broke off. Don't rely on the squeeze to fill in big divots and mistakes in coatings! PC has a hardness of 24-42 (depending on who you ask) but will still extrude a tiny bit under higher pressure.

    If a 1/16" or larger flange, time for a new piece of NSAF.

    banger

  12. #12
    Boolit Master el34's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    N Texas
    Posts
    1,190
    Thanks Jim. Without the beaglenuts I always get a nasty flange on new foil. NS side up. Always. The nuts help tremendously with new foil but if I use the same foil a second time I'll have some trouble but not if I pour off boolits while the stuff is still hot and a little pliable.

    I have thought maybe I sprayed too much. Then one day Blanco was over and we sprayed some flat black. No flange. Coupled with your continual good results with no-nuts/flat black powder I thought the flange may be a characteristic of the glossies vs the flat powder.
    "The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule." --H. L. Menchen

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    out of here, wandering somewhere in the SW.
    Posts
    10,163
    You got it!!!!!

    Matte black does NOT fill/cover as heavy as the gloss stuff. The matte gives unbelievable surface detail where the glossies just fill over most everything. That is probably why you are seeing the flanges on your slugs. I spray mainly black, but now with the new gun I received, I will be switching colors on a regular basis!

    The glosses normally work very well with DT because they cover everything/mistakes/divots/etc.

    I really like the color and feel of my matte black Ninja boolits!!!!!! Red....not so much....my 45LC's look like little lipstick tubes!!!!!! HA......ha!

    banger

  14. #14
    In Remembrance - Super Moderator & Official Cast Boolits Sketch Artist

    RP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Nahunta NC
    Posts
    3,410
    I like the colors and shiny stuff I got some flat black but I save that for the dull stuff. And I know chrome will not get you home but most like the shine
    Reloading to save money I am sure the saving is going to start soon

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check