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Thread: Help, half a brass case is stuck in my 1911 10mm chamber

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Help, half a brass case is stuck in my 1911 10mm chamber

    I have half a case that was ejected from my Razorback's chamber, and the front half is stuck in the chamber of the barrel. How would I get it out? Best thing I can come up with is knocking a wooden dowel down the barrel and hope the fibers grab it.

    Any other suggestions?

    And what would cause it to happen?

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    You can certainly try the dowel.

    Do you have any cerrosafe?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDYx5-1AZdk

    If you don't have any, you can just try slugging the bore, if the other simpler ideas in the video don't work. With a thin-wall pistol case, there may not be anything to snag on though.

    Why did it happen? Dunno.

    Was it a reload? How many times reloaded? Was it ever shot in a poorly-supported chamber? Properly reloaded? Any other signs that it was an exceptionally hot load?

    It may be a simple case of brass being used beyond its functional lifespan. Can't say though. Any pics?

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    This was a reload, and perhaps the brass was old. Not sure. I'll get the barrel, and try to get a pic. Good idea on slugging the barrel.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
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    Any reason not to use lead instead of cerrosafe? I have lead.

  5. #5
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    For pity sakes, just stick a 20ga. shotgun bore brush in there on a rod and haul it out!
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  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    Cerrosafe has a much lower melting point.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy Johnny_V's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chutestrate View Post
    This was a reload, and perhaps the brass was old. Not sure. I'll get the barrel, and try to get a pic. Good idea on slugging the barrel.
    Buying reloads these days can be iffy, especially if the reloads were fired from a Glock or other firearm with a non-supported chamber. Running Glock once fired cases through a "bulge buster" gets rid of the telltale bulge caused from the non-supported chamber, but at the same time weakens the case where the bulge was. Best to fire your own reloads, provided they didn't come from a firearm with a non-supported chamber.

    Hope this helps......
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  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thank you everyone. Something will work I'm sure. I don't have a 20 ga, but a .45 cal might do the job.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Disassemble the barrel.

    find a tall skinny bottle and fill with hoppes
    Drop the barrel in and cap the bottle.

    Leave for a week or two while the Hoppe's slowly dissolves the case.
    EDG

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
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    .

    Buy or make, & keep, a $4 spring hook tool - which can be inserted from the rear of the chamber to catch on the forward edge of the separated case's neck & pulled out.

    http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...130SX-/22-1225




    .

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
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    Hey, I have one of those. Don't know why but I do. Thanks!!!

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    drive a lead .38-40 bullet into the case from the chamber end. make shore it upsets in the brass. then a rod from the muzzle to push it all out.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master

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    What's always worked for me when a case gets stuck in a sizing die is to put it in the deep freeze a couple hours. The brass shrinks more than the steel and the case usually pops right out.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master




    bruce drake's Avatar
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    A 50 caliber brass brush pushed from the end of the barrel towards the chamber. It should push that brass case neck right out. Save the 20ga bore brush for the 50 caliber cases
    I Cast my Boolits, Therefore I am Happy.
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  15. #15
    Boolit Master

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    IDZ has nailed it. Cheeep way to go. Put barrel in back of freezer for a day. Use large cleaning brush. Should pop right out.

  16. #16
    Boolit Bub

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    Use a rat tailed file of the right diameter to reach into the brass, rotate the file to take a bite, and pull. Fast and easy.

  17. #17
    Boolit Mold
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    I've had good success by using a 45 cal bore brush from the muzzle. If not successful pull the bore brush about half way back into the case and push the case out of the chamber. Bristles bend slightly and dig into brass case when you reverse motion.
    Also works on bottle necked cases. On bolt action rifles insert bore brush into case and remove.
    Pumps and lever action insert cleaning rod from muzzle bore brush into ejection port, thread unto cleaning rod pull into case and push out of chamber.

  18. #18
    Boolit Bub Possumcop's Avatar
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    Inserting an oversize brass brush from the rear and then jerking it out quickly usually works for me.

    If that doesn't work, the Cerrosafe will. I'd avoid using lead though, Cerrosafe melts at @185 degrees, considerably cooler than boiling water. Molten lead is likely to be over 500 degrees and you stand a much greater chance of burning yourself or discoloring your barrel. I doubt it'd be hot enough to mess up the temper, but why risk it?

    Cerrosafe is reusable indefinitely as long as you don't get it too hot and I guarantee that you'll find plenty of other uses for it.
    7.62 NATO, It's kinda like 5.56 NATO, but for men...

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy rr2241tx's Avatar
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    I had a case separation in a 40-65 and discovered that a 9mm Luger case on the end of my patch jag was just the right size to knock the separated piece back out.
    rr2241tx
    Timin' has a lot to do with the outcome of a rain dance.

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy
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    The freezer trick and a dental picked worked. Thank you for the advice everyone.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check