Broke my press

[WyrTwister]

I made a press handle from a tire tool . The steel was plenty strong enough .

God bless
Wyr

[Pressman]

1/2 inch thread handles are prone to break at the shoulder. Lyman Spartan presses are breaking now. A friend has all the work he wants making replacements for Lyman.
RCBS had the same problem with the JR2 press. Upsizing the thread to 9/16 solved the problem and created the JR3.
Ken

[OnceFired]

I finally got my replacement handle & grip yesterday. Out the door with shipping was $27.

The old handle only had about 1/2" to 3/4" of threading where the handle mated with the press. The replacement is about 1.5" worth. Threading it all the way on arranges the handle so it's not just putting the tip into the press. I'm thinking it *must* be stronger that way, since less force can be applied based on the different fulcrum point.

As for the existing broken handle, I had to extricate the sheared piece out of the receiving threads on the press. What a pain that was! No luck using multiple different types of pliers, likely because of the way it sheared there wasn't much surface area to grab. I ended up having to drill all the way through the thing, and even then the pliers didn't help a bit at that point. I had to drive a punch into the newly drilled hole, then tap on the punch with my rubber mallet a bunch to get it to start rotating out of its home. I guess when it sheared off, it jammed in the threading pretty good. The threads didn't seem damaged though, and the new one spiralled right in there like a champ.

I have everything assembled again. Now I have to adjust it all. Between the broken press and the fact that I just built the new bench, I'm certain it's all out of whack.

OF

[mdi]

Me & Bubba were thinkin' 'bout a new handle...

Get a 1/2 bolt from the hardware store. Get a length of 1/2 pipe. Cut the head off the bolt. Slip the bolt into the pipe. If ya kin weld, weld it in place. Screw yer new handle into the press and fix up sum ammo. It'll work temporarily at least...

[country gent]

We used to remove broken threads several ways at work. Vise grips or pliers if you could get a bite on them. But buggering up the stub and not getting it meant more work getting back to a usable surface. The most used was a prick punch and hammer. make a punch mark on the edge and tap in it angled to rotate bolt out, sometimes working back and fort is nesecary to free up the bolt, with a little practice this meathod works very well and quickly. Drill stub out, this was done undersize and ussyally with a left hand drill ( alot of times the drill would grab and the thread back out. If not then hole was drilled and a easy out used to turn out the thread stub. Some welders could weld a pin to the broken bolt and then turn it out also. For very touchy we hand allen electrodes made for edm and would burn a allen socket into the broken bolt and turn out with allen wrench. On the 1/2" stub you had if at surface or slightly above a cuttoff wheel in a dremel tool cuts a nice slot for a flat svrew driver also.

[troyboy]

Ya or the old stand by of drilling an appropriate sized hole followed by an easy out.

[Pinsnscrews]

I a case like this, I would buy the handle (yes, the OP did this, just saying what I would do) to support small business. If Titan or Lee offered a shorter arm and knob for the roller handle on the turret press, I would order the item from them. not becauee I don't have time, but because it helps small business.

[s1120]

As was said the best way to get stubs like that out are a lefthand drill bit. if you don't have any, buy them. They are awesome!!!

[JSnover]

I a case like this, I would buy the handle (yes, the OP did this, just saying what I would do) to support small business. If Titan or Lee offered a shorter arm and knob for the roller handle on the turret press, I would order the item from them. not becauee I don't have time, but because it helps small business.

Same here. The manufacturer needs to eat, just like I do. If a new part can't be had or I can't part with $27 then I'm off to the scrap bin to make one.

[Three44s]

Left hand drills are great when they work ....... but not always.

Easy outs around here are called hard outs .......

If you are lucky, and have a bit of stub on a larger size broken threaded shank sticking above grade, you are better off not wasting your time chewing it off with vise grips and instead welding an appropriate sized nut to the broken stud and turning it out that way.

Now, for the nasty ones:

If you have a open back to your piece: Take and drill it through and through. Get your easy out and drive it in. Tap it side to side (gently as they are hard and will snap off it you get too rough) and remove it ........ drive it in and tap it out again a second time to make sure you have GOOD serrations for your broken thread extractor to grab into.

What you are doing is creating the corresponding teeth for the easy out to bite into after you conduct the next steps.

For the next thing you will need is a oxy/acy. torch. Use an appropriate sized heating tip that you can heat up the broken stud by way of the hole you drilled clear through. Have water handy.

Heat the broken stud to as hot as you can get it ..... up to yellow if possible. Do this two or three times and each time you get things hot ......... douse it with water. Re-heat and then water it down.

What you are doing is expanding the broken stud into the base metal it's stuck in and then hitting it with water to shrink it more than it would by just air cooling.

Besides, you don't want to expand your base metal ...... just the broken stud with the hole you drilled in it. It will expand to the center and as it shrinks, it will back away from the threaded area where it's stuck. Such treatment also raises cob with the rust that's locking your piece in.

The reason it is better to set your serrations into the broken and hollowed out broken stud is because as you water quench the stud you are making it harder than hadies and if you wait to set your extractor after you've over hardened the piece you are trying to remove, you'll likely not get a "bite" with it. It will be nearly as hard as a file and the extractor will just skate over it and not dig in.

There are two oils I really like for tough jobs such as the above:

Kroil

or a high sulphur thread cutting oil

Either one will "run towards heat" like nothing I have ever seen.

Don't waste your time with SiliKroil ...... it runs away from heat.

You likely want to heat you base piece some now to expand it away from the broken stud ... so it's important to have an oil that is not afraid of heat.

Hope you never get into such a nasty situation.

And sometimes the above is still not enough ..... believe it or not.

There, we use the proverbial "gas wrench". After establishing a hole clear through, we use the torch carefully and actually blow the broken piece out and away from the threads. The base material does not heat up to cutting temp at precisely the same time the broken stud does. It takes a steady hand and a good eye and reflexes but it does work.

You may wonder what the $%@#% sort of stuff would be this much "fun"? Well, the toughest stuff like this is usually found on Bulldozer undercarriages when the large cap screws that hold the track rollers on the track frame break off when you are replacing or rebuilding track rollers.

Nice, big, dirty, rusty stuff.

Rewarding though!

Best regards

Three 44s

[s1120]

Ive been in that boat three44's!! decades of working on old cars, and tractors will do that. Ive resorted to playing dentist with a carbide burr to grind out bolts before... never fun!!!

[country gent]

We had several tricks with left hand drills that helped also. One was to dull its cutting edges down so it cut hard and gripped on the lands more. This you feed hard and the increased cutting pressure did make a diffrence. The other in soft materials was A higher lead angle feed hard so it would grab while cutting. emeber to hold on and be ready when the drill grabs and the bolt breaks loose it backing out right now. Ever see a lathe carrige move when threading? You need to keep the pressure on and drill straiht and true when it walks out.