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Thread: !!!Read This First - Post Your Questions Here!!!

  1. #61
    Boolit Master slim1836's Avatar
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    I powder coat only for my .45 ACP, .308 Tikka, & 7.62x54R using just clip-on wheel weights. That does not mean that I have given up on lubing, I just delved into another area for a while.

    I get funny looks at the gun range when the range officers inspect my ammo and I have to explain what it is.

    I've had good groups at 50 & 100 yards, meaning kill shots in minute of deer and hogs, but still working on trying to get them better. I do not worry about speed, but more on accuracy. Once I settle on the best accuracy of the powder used, I'll chronograph it for record only. Then I'll probably try a different powder to try to better it.

    It's a labor of love, and I'm loving it.

    Slim
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  2. #62
    Boolit Master


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    I'm getting great results so far with PC. Smoke4320 sells the best powder I've used. I PC for 38/374 44 mag and special and 7.62 54r, 30-30 and 06. Have yet to for 8mmjust cause of cold weather and time. And best results so far has been with .50 cal muzzle loader, two coats of black after a kurl treatment with two cutting files and I've surpassed the accuracy I ever got with sabots or powerbelts

  3. #63
    Boolit Bub

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    Or like an Iron Butterfly-----am I dating myself?

  4. #64
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Smoke4320 View Post
    62chevy
    I feel fairly certain you could get close to the same speed using 2% tin. The copper just helps hold the hollow points together better. They mushroom better and don't shed the nose as easily
    I don't have a Hollow Point mold yet. Read the thread about adding copper but mostly got out of it about rifle bullets. So much to learn and so little time to learn it.
    Lead bullets Matter

    There are three kinds of men: The ones that learn by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence and find out for themselves. - Will Rodgers

  5. #65
    Boolit Master BNE's Avatar
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    I started playing with powder coating because I quickly learned that I hated the mess, time and then the smoke generated with wax based lubes. I ended up hand wiping every buulet after assembly. Just a pain in general.

    Hi-Tek works, but I thought it was a slow process also.

    So far, powder coating has worked great for me. I do not have a lot of trigger time with it, but the process (Esspecially the airsoft BB tumble method.) is much more straight forward. I have tried Smokes Flame Red and Signal Blue and I am amazed at how the colors come out after baking. I thought it was mostly for pistol rounds, but it sounds like many people are using it for rifle rounds also.
    I'm a Happy Clinger.

  6. #66
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    BNE
    I shoot mostly rifles .. very little pistol some 45 subguns.. most of what I shoot will be with a suppressor Full powder and subs ..
    almost everything I shoot now is pc'ed except 223 and 204 ruger (they are just too small for me to deal with)
    This is a pic of a 5 shot group from a Noveski 10.2" 300 Blackout and a YHM suppressor at 200 yds .. Pc'ed Milhec 312-159 HP
    Pretty good if I say so myself
    Click image for larger version. 

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    with a little (sometimes a lot) of load development I can get MOA/near MOA from most all my rifles and Pc'ed bullets
    I carry a Nuke50 because cleaning up the mess is Silly !!

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  7. #67
    Boolit Master vmathias's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smoke4320 View Post
    BNE
    I shoot mostly rifles .. very little pistol some 45 subguns.. most of what I shoot will be with a suppressor Full powder and subs ..
    almost everything I shoot now is pc'ed except 223 and 204 ruger (they are just too small for me to deal with)
    This is a pic of a 5 shot group from a Noveski 10.2" 300 Blackout and a YHM suppressor at 200 yds .. Pc'ed Milhec 312-159 HP
    Pretty good if I say so myself
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	300Blkout-MP312-159-FN-200Yds-1.jpg 
Views:	23 
Size:	80.7 KB 
ID:	132047

    with a little (sometimes a lot) of load development I can get MOA/near MOA from most all my rifles and Pc'ed bullets
    I have never tried Pan Lubing but it looks like a semi timely process. Standard Lubing isnt so bad when you get things set up. Tumble lubing with alox is just messy. I would have to say storage with Lube VS. Powder coating makes the difference. The shake and bake method of Powder coating "from what I have seen" looks pretty easy and relatively quick with no messy lubes to fuss with. Just my opinion...

  8. #68
    Boolit Master Jupiter7's Avatar
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    Another convert here. Ive run soft alloy PC'd up to 1800fps with 1MOA accuracy. Last alloy I used was 10lbs range scrap with 2 lino spacers and water dropped from PC oven. No fliers and consistently prints 5 shot 1" groups with weight sorting. I still use gas checks on high pressure rifle boolits. I've also had great success with every pistol round from mild to wild without gas checks. Can shoot PC'd lead in my little g29 at full house in factory barrel without a bit of leading.

  9. #69
    Boolit Master vmathias's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jupiter7 View Post
    Another convert here. Ive run soft alloy PC'd up to 1800fps with 1MOA accuracy. Last alloy I used was 10lbs range scrap with 2 lino spacers and water dropped from PC oven. No fliers and consistently prints 5 shot 1" groups with weight sorting. I still use gas checks on high pressure rifle boolits. I've also had great success with every pistol round from mild to wild without gas checks. Can shoot PC'd lead in my little g29 at full house in factory barrel without a bit of leading.
    Thanks for the info on the pistol Success with PC. I was wondering how they would perform without GC's.

  10. #70
    Boolit Master
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    I powder coat for rifle and have found I can use more powder in the load than before. I do not think you could put powder coat over the lube if that is the question. I think you mean one process over the other and I think pc is better. there is less mess when loading, no build up in the seating die. The bullets just seem nicer.
    jim

  11. #71
    Boolit Master


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    When I first started casting I had been on here for a couple of months prior. I currently cast for pistols and rifles. All my rifle bullets are GC'ed and I have never lubed a bullet. Not one. I started PC'ing immediately and have never used anything else. I do not push my cast rifle bullets over 2200 as of yet and still use jacketed bullets for long range and high velocity rifles like my 240 Weatherby or 338 Lapua. Everything else gets a beautiful coat of Smokes powder. For the range and speed I use them for I can not imagine using any other method.
    'The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge.
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  12. #72
    Boolit Master vmathias's Avatar
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    http://youtu.be/GEtwXmSVKjk

    Here's a short vid.

  13. #73
    Boolit Mold
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    Nickel Plated Brass

    Anyone got advice on reloading nickle plated brass (45c). I am at best a novice re loader. My straight brass reloads function just fine. I get excessive lead shavings with the nickel coated brass on bullet seating. Have cleaned reset my dies. The case mouth flares seem inconsistent. Any pointers on how to proceed would be greatly appreciated.

    If this is in the wrong forum please advise.

  14. #74
    Boolit Master
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    My experience has been the nickel plating is usually pretty thin and they reload just fine. Never took any extra steps or precaution. Boy do some of them look really shiny though

  15. #75
    Boolit Master knifemaker's Avatar
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    If it is shaving lead, you are not flaring the case mouth enough. Add more flare until the shaving stops. Just do not flare more then needed to seat the bullet without shaving lead. Also you should set your seating die to where it will just remove the flare when the bullet is seated and do the case mouth crimping in a later separate operation.

  16. #76
    Boolit Master
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    Check with your calipers that all of the cases are the same length, variations here will result in different amounts of belling.

  17. #77
    Boolit Mold triggeric's Avatar
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    Question Prodigal Gun

    Just getting back into reloading after a layoff of 40 years. I have read extensively from manuals,forums and blogs trying to get myself re-educated on powders,bullets and equipment changes. At this point I have an alloy question I haven't been able to answer just from reading. I have some lead with a bhn of 8.5-9.0. I also have some pure tin and some roto metal 30% alloy. I am trying to figure out how much of the alloy and tin to add to my soft alloy to get it to around 16bhn. I was hoping that someone might have an idea of what my soft lead has in it to bring it from 5bhn to 8.5-9.0. Pure tin? Tin and antimony? Any ideas on the subject would be appreciated and might save me a lot of experimental pours. Thanks in advance for any responses.

  18. #78
    Boolit Master
    JSnover's Avatar
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    Tin doesn't do much for hardness unless you add way too much. Adding a bit of antimony should work, or you could water quench, maybe both.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  19. #79
    Boolit Master
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    There was a great thread on this topic in the 'Lead and lead alloys' section regarding binary vs. tertiary alloys (2 elements vs. 3 elements).
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  20. #80
    Boolit Mold triggeric's Avatar
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    Hi JS...Actually what I was trying to figure out is what was added to my soft alloy to raise it from 5.0 bhn to 8.5-9.0. My source for the soft alloy just called it bullet lead and didn't specify what was added to the lead and I have no way to contact the source. Your reference to the alloy link is appreciated and I am going to check it out now,thanks

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check