Thanks for the help. Think i finish off that mix today, something to do
Thanks for the help. Think i finish off that mix today, something to do
I think I have read where the cupping helps to seal the hot gasses and prevent leading.
Are my kids/grandkids more important than "o"'s kids, to me they are,darn tooting they are!!! They deserve the same armed protection afforded "o"'s kids.
I have been hoodwinked but not by"o"
In God we trust,in "o" never trust
Support those that support the Constitution and the 2nd Amendant
When you read the fine print you get an education
when you ignore the fine print you get experience
how much harder is a cast bullet dropped in water from the mold than one allowed to cool naturely ,I don't have or have use of the testing equipment needed , I am currently making 429421 keith style pills out of straight ww the bullets come out of the mold at 257 gn thx in advance
Last edited by 2manyguns; 10-27-2015 at 11:19 AM.
From my understanding they are not any harder. The wq boolits just reach the hardness level when you quench them as opposed to air cooled that harden over time.
thx for the reply do you have a way to determine the brunell hardness without the test equipment, possably by the weight of the bullet comeing out of the mold ????
Try this thread and although it will never replace a hardness tester it will help. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...s-with-pencils
Lead bullets Matter
There are three kinds of men: The ones that learn by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence and find out for themselves. - Will Rodgers
I wanted to kill a few primers so filled the case (45-70) with WD-40 and let them sit overnight. I tested one out in a vise, hitting the primer with a center punch, and darned if they all fired like that. These were CCI standard lrp's. Boy, they sure do make them good.
Yeah, they're tougher than we think. Short of smashing or burning I don't know of a reliable method. Maybe you could melt the priming compound out with a solvent.
Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.
Conventional wisdom says no oil on the primers. I would have thought WD-40 would be certain primer death.
Primers are better than we may expect.
Hitting them with a center punch seems like a bad idea to me.
Let me recommend you put them in your gun and fire them.....dale
Was wearing safety glasses.
Why dont you just de prime them? I have done it several times without any going off you just go slow.
Put the primer on an anvil and hit it with a hammer. Doesn't take much of a hammer swing either.
You know, I've been hand loading and shooting for 20 years, and I just found my first dead primer last month.
Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.
A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the People to keep and bear arms *shall not be infringed*.
"The greatest danger to American freedom is a government that ignores the Constitution."
- Thomas Jefferson
"While the people have property, arms in their hands, and only a spark of noble spirit, the most corrupt Congress must be mad to form any project of tyranny."
- Rev. Nicholas Collin, Fayetteville Gazette (N.C.), October 12, 1789
When I was a LEO firearms instructor I recall reading of a incident where a police officer would use WD-40 to spray his revolver about once a month to protect it from rust. Only problem he left the 38 special shells in the revolver cylinder when spraying the gun. Later, after doing this 2-3 times, he got into a gun fight and had all six shells fail to fire. The WD-40 had creep between the primer and primer pocket wall and contaminated the primers when the shells were examined by lab personnel.
Understood... I'm just relaying what I've done and that it has never caused me a problem. Since the anvil was fairly low, the worst that could have probably happened would have been a piece of the primer shrapnel to have hit the legs of my jeans. The hammer face would have prevented the shrapnel from traveling upwards towards my face. The potential blast area would be limited by the face of the anvil and the face of the hammer. I dispose of primers that I have either mangled in the press or had to remove for whatever reason that way.
Water is the"best" primer killer, some years ago I had 100 primed brass stored in garage that was prone to mild flooding the box of brass was on a shelf
at head hight so not in the flood water I loaded ten rounds to check the load none of them fired running the remaining cases through the rifle none of the rest of the primers fired, since then I have used water to deactivate primers with about 98% success the odd one will still fire after a couple of days in water after a week has been 100% successful,
Robert.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |