high velocity with cast.

[geargnasher]

What you need to do is list things you think matter, then discuss the merits of each. Several things do matter, but which are important.

I suspect you're in a better position to start such a list than most of us, give it a go?

Gear

[Love Life]

No need to make a list. I'm seeing techniques listed here and in the other threads that I really thought were common knowledge in precision shooting and load development.

Start with a "standard" and then change one variable at a time and prove what is worthwhile and what isn't.

Also, don't neglect trigger time and control.

I'm hitting 2,400 FPS in the 308 just fine with cast using the same techniques I've always used. I just let the targets tell me what needed tweaking at times.

We can cover barrel harmonics and the "nodes". I suggest a 300 yd ladder test (not load ladder) followed by a 400 yd ladder test...or you can do an OCW test...or you can chrono and play with numbers...or any number of things.

You can outside neck turn which is something I do find beneficial but not the end all be all.

You can uniform primer pockets, work flash holes, anneal, weigh empty cases and then weigh plugged/filled cases. Pick your poison.

You can play with primers...after playing with powder charges...after playing with seating depth...after weight sorting and ogive sorting...or any combo you choose.

Every little bit...every little bit.

I said months ago that shooting cast is not rocket science. I was right. If I can do it, then anybody can...on their own for the most part.

The minutia is important, but don't get lost in it. Also, my cast boolits like to jump. Imagine that.

Oh, and the tips I gleaned from Mr. Gibson and Cbrick on making the best boolits I can was one of the most important factors.

[Doc Highwall]

Here is a good article on barrel vibrations, it is from the RSI web page and their pressure trace tracks the optimum barrel exit.
http://www.the-long-family.com/OBT_paper.htm

[dtknowles]

Here is a good article on barrel vibrations, it is from the RSI web page and their pressure trace tracks the optimum barrel exit.
http://www.the-long-family.com/OBT_paper.htm

Just what I needed another theory;

Tim

[Love Life]

The easiest way to prove a theory to yourself is to test it.

[dtknowles]

The easiest way to prove a theory to yourself is to test it.

I have not the tools. I have a chronograph, a fairly accurate rifle and a 100 yard range. I have a hard enough time telling if my groups change size because of ammo changes, the wind or my shooting technique.

Tim

[Love Life]

That's a bummer.

[cbrick]

I have not the tools. I have a chronograph, a fairly accurate rifle and a 100 yard range. I have a hard enough time telling if my groups change size because of ammo changes, the wind or my shooting technique. Tim

Yep, that's a problem for me also. I've got the chrono, a rifle (while not a bench gun) that I would like to see what I could do with it but I have access to a 100 yard range. Sure will put a crimp on the long range testing but I'll do what I can at 100.

Rick

[RED333]

Yep, that's a problem for me also. I've got the chrono, a rifle (while not a bench gun) that I would like to see what I could do with it but I have access to a 100 yard range. Sure will put a crimp on the long range testing but I'll do what I can at 100.

Rick

This is me, but I do not have the chronograph just yet.
Besides, all we have is time, right?
Time to go back and read and reread, pick out the good parts and hope we dont miss the good parts.
Guys, thanks for the info and kick in the pants.LOL

[btroj]

I can shoot to 300 any day I want, to 600 as long as no matches are going on.

All that and I only care to shoot to 100. No real reason, I just don't have an interest.

[Love Life]

If you decide to sell your rifle, I'd like to make an offer on it.

[btroj]

Why would I sell the rifle? It shoots well at 100 yards, exactly what I wanted it for. Longer distances were never on my radar.

[geargnasher]

The easiest way to prove a theory to yourself is to test it.

That's true. Since the topic of theory has come up, something else I thought I'd throw out there is what I don't discuss. If I'm not talking about it, I either don't know about it, or have determined it's irrelevant for my purposes. Understanding a little bit about barrel harmonics and what to look for on your targets to see if it's affecting groups IS very important when you start splitting hairs. That's why I brought it up. Not too many people realize the importance of the travelling wave. You can actually see it happening with variances in the antimony wash just inside the muzzle. Ever get that wash and notice bare metal from the crown back inside for 1/4 to 3/4"? I have. I also noticed that the next half-grain step of powder increase brought it to the crown and the groups shrunk way down. Hmm. Another half-grain, no good, notice the wash way back inside the muzzle. Next range outing, duplicate the good load and it still works. Do things like that a few times and you start to realize that SOME of this armchair jawjacking about theory this or theory that might actually be useful in practice.
A lot of it is just entertainment, though. Must separate the wheat from the chaff for oneself.

Gear

[Love Life]

Barrel harmonics are not a new phenomenon.

[45 2.1]

I suspect you're in a better position to start such a list than most of us, give it a go? Gear

No need to make a list. I'm seeing techniques listed here and in the other threads that I really thought were common knowledge in precision shooting and load development.

I've taught several people to do much better than they were doing. The problem is most all people consider different things important..........whether they are or not. All of them had several things wrong with what they did... and they weren't the same things each time either. What you need to learn is the basics of HOW things work and WHY they work. Without that you're going to be a parts changer mechanic reloader.

One thing you need to know is this......... You can get normal, well put together production rifles to shoot under 1.5 MOA at 2,400 fps without the benchrest techniques. Basically we are talking about calibers 24 thru 338 here (22 calibers are a separate topic) that have the potential to reach that 2,400 fps or more. Whatever your barrel length, remember at these parameters you get about 35 fps increase for each inch of barrel increase or decrease. Someone shooting a 16 inch barrel at 2,300 fps would get about 2,650 fps shooting out of a 26 inch barrel with the SAME load. Factor that into what you're hearing when you read posts here. You will have to work for it and it won't be easy, but you can do it. This is with molds and the normal things you can get now. All you need to do is separate the BS from what does matter. A list will help determine that for a lot of people here.

[tomme boy]

Could you !please! there I said it! put a list together? There has been a lot of info together in this thread. It would help if you put together what has worked for you.

[45 2.1]

Could you !please! there I said it! put a list together? There has been a lot of info together in this thread. It would help if you put together what has worked for you.

That would leave a lot of people with questions... why this or that wasn't said or talked about. I've done this before and got VERY LITTLE response with a short cut to the point post very few people learned anything from. This way we talk about what you guys think is important and either: discuss or expand it, negate it or place the topic where it belongs in the scheme of things (basically tell how much it matters where).

[ShooterAZ]

Here's my short list. For M700 stock 24" bbl, 10 twist, 30-06.

1) Powder selection. In my Lyman cast boolit manuals I see very little or no use of typical "medium slow" rifle powders listed. I'm referring to Varget, 4064, 4895 and the like. I do see a lot of 5744 and SR4759 data. I have been able to achieve 2000+/- with these "cast boolit" powders with decent accuracy. Will I need to delve into the more typical "jacketed" rifle powders to get to get higher velocity with cast?

2) Mold choices for high velocity. What do you consider to be among the top three mold choices for high velocity in 30 cal?

3) Rifle/Barrels. I see many users rechambering to custom barrels with 1/12 or 1/14 twist. How important is it to get to high(er) velocity?
Of course I do understand it will depend on what type of usage one wants. My usage is casual target shooting...but with a high degree of accuracy with velocity beyond 2000fps.

[runfiverun]

AZ.
I use slow for caliber powders, they fill the case and I'm looking for a slow launch backed up by gas volume to keep things moving.
I also try to get them to come up to pressure after the boolit is firmly in the barrel.

2. my favorite right now is the accurate 30-165A it has enough slopes and angles to it to match my rifles throat pretty darn well, it is supported and centered, but has a slight amount of run-up to the barrel to help it self center when it gets there.

3. your chamber has to be cut on the centerline of the barrels bore and that bore needs to be concentric and straight..
the custom rifle thing is more to get that, than to gain an advantage in twist rate.
in my case I went with a good barrel and no fancy tricks to the rest of the rifle, it has a good straight hole in it and is what I had on hand.
the trigger is as issued my the fuhrer, lightly stoned to clean it up and take out stage one.
the stock is either an old fajen or a bishop from some time in the past [50's?]
will it shoot any better or faster than my 30" barreled AR-30 in 308?
surely faster [maybe] it does have more case capacity to work with, but the shorter barrel will slow things down some.



throughout all this we haven't even mentioned the plastic state of alloy's or us even coming close to exceeding our alloy's strengths.
that's something anyone reading this thread should ponder over for a little while.

[ShooterAZ]

Thanks guys. popper, I have been playing with the BO also...1/7 BFI upper. I am getting 1900fps+ with cast in that one with superb accuracy. Apparently I must be doing a good job of making my boolits.