MidSouth Shooters SupplyTitan ReloadingRotoMetals2Snyders Jerky
Reloading EverythingInline FabricationLoad DataRepackbox
Wideners Lee Precision
Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Something floating to top at high temp

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Laramie, WY
    Posts
    589

    Something floating to top at high temp

    I was creating an alloy with COWW and some other stuff that I knew included linotype. When the mix went past about 740 degrees F according to my lead thermometer, a silverish material started floating to the top and refused to be fluxed back in. (I was using wood shavings.)

    I'm *assuming* it was tin (possibly antimony?), but was unaware that it would separate out at a particular temperature.

    Thank you for any pointers or information.

    Richard

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    6,314
    Flux the melt again and the tin will mix back into the alloy
    Regards
    John

  3. #3
    Banned

    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    soda springs Id.
    Posts
    28,088
    tin turns the top of the alloy gold at about 750-f.
    antimony can come out of your alloy and form a lumpy surface, you need to turn the heat up a little higher and flux this back in.
    the tin usually responds better to a oxygen free barrier on the surface

  4. #4
    Moderator
    RogerDat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Michigan Lansing Area
    Posts
    5,754
    Is tin on the surface one of those situations where wax works better than wood chips or sawdust?

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Laramie, WY
    Posts
    589
    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    tin turns the top of the alloy gold at about 750-f.
    antimony can come out of your alloy and form a lumpy surface, you need to turn the heat up a little higher and flux this back in.
    the tin usually responds better to a oxygen free barrier on the surface
    The surface is lumpy, so I'm thinking it may be antimony.

    The temperature did hit about 840. Fluxing with the wood shavings didn't work. Perhaps beeswax might work better?

    Thank you,
    Richard

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    out of here, wandering somewhere in the SW.
    Posts
    10,163
    I always use beeswax in my casting pot. It has a much higher flash point than cheap old candle wax and smells great! I have always found chunks of burned sawdust in my pot when using dust and quit doing that after trying it a few times. Dust is great for your initial melt...flux 3X....and pour your ingots.

    Beeswax, for me, is almost like magic.........the scummy, lumpy, chunky Sn/Sb that can form on the surface goes back into the soup with just a little pea-sized piece of the wax and some stirring! Pure magic! Keep your temp down and that will minimize the oxidization.

    banger

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Canukistan near Detroit
    Posts
    250
    Fluxing should only be done at the right temperature. Not too cold, not too hot. I'll put carbon in before it starts to melt, just to limit oxygen exposure. But the stirring in flux and pouring through your floating flux should be done 700-750F.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check