The New Lee REAL Bullet Thread

[dualsport]

Here's my idea-you guys tell me everything you know re. the use of the Lee REAL Bullets. I have several molds covering the common calibers. Recently got the .45 to try out Ed Harris' idea of shooting the REAL in a Ruger Old Army. I'd like to find a load that works in an in-line 1/28" .50 with a REAL. And if Suzy Lee is watching, I want a .32 and maybe a .40 REAL, and hey, a .36? Tried these? Hunted, matches, plinkin', you name it. If it was a REAL I would like to hear about it. Thanks.

[mooman76]

I have a .54 T/C with a 1/20 twist and the Lee so far shoots good at 25y but I have not yet tried it out farther than that and I only used a light charge. I suspect it will still be good out to 50y or further with light charges but will also try heavier charges to see what it can do. Another company also makes REALs in smaller calibers I believe Mountain moulds if I remember correct. I have also used REALs in the .50 and shot reasonably well with a 1/48 twist but another one CVA .50 with 1/48 twist shot very well. My CVA .45 Kentucky w/ 1-66 twist shot the smaller 200gr ok but would get a flier one out of 3 shots like it was on the edge of stability. I never got my .50 CVA inline 1/28 to shoot them better than just ok but I never tried a over powder wad like some recommend.

[rsrocket1]

Gun: CVA Optima Pro (old style hex breech plug, unmodified, but with a thin washer in the primer hole to eliminate gap between primer and firing pin plate)

Mold: Lee 250g 50 cal REAL dual cavity. Scrubbed clean with Dawn dishwasher detergent and hot water, smoked (now I know I don't need to do this) and all soot wiped away in cavity with Q-Tip.

Metal: Dead soft lead (can make an impression in the bullets with my thumbnail) cast at 750F from Lee 4-20 bottom pour pot. With the hotter than normal temperature, the lead fills out the mold nicely with nice sharp edges and no wrinkles.
Attachment 118267

Lubed with 2:1 Beeswax/Vaseline. Consistency of Chapstick but does not melt off even in 110F weather.

Attachment 118269

Charge 45-90g (by volume) Alliant BlackMZ. Not the best powder around, but 1/2 the cost of what I've found to be the best (Blackhorn 209).

Overpowder card made from cardboard cereal box and punched with sharpened 1/2" steel pipe.


After the powder and card are loaded, push down real hard with the ramrod.

Although Lee claims you can push the REAL's down with just a ramrod, I used a homemade short started and mallet to start the bullet in the rifle, then the ramrod to push it the rest of the way down and be sure you seat the bullet firmly against the card/powder.



Results at 50 yards.



Right now I am plinking with 45g (volume) of BlackMZ. It is about as accurate as the 70g load, but costs less per shot.

There are 2 tricks to getting consistent shots with this very coarse, irregular powder.

1. Loosely pour the powder into the measure and level off the top without shaking or letting the powder settle.
2. Clean between each shot. Both sides of a dry cotton patch (cut up T-shirt) is sufficient. The powder leaves white "crusties" in the breech region which will make seating of subsequent shots inconsistent.

Attachment 118277

A clean up of the barrel consists of a patch soaked in CLP followed by a couple of dry patches. No leading and no build up even after 20+ shot sessions. Be sure to clean the breechplug too.

Hope this helps.

[dualsport]

That's exactly what I was fishing for! Thanks.

[dlbarr]

I Have a GM replacement barrel with a fast twist (1:28) for my TC in .50 cal. I have never gotten good performance from the Lee REAL bullet. This barrel shoots Barnes TMZ copper bullets extremely well, it's a real tack-driver with those. But not the Lee REAL bullet. Just my experience, YMMV....

[triggerhappy243]

my experience with any "ALL LEAD CONICAL" has been it needs a tight fit but room to obturate. too much lube is bad... like sliding on ice. and a twist no faster than 1-32"

[tomme boy]

One thing with the REAL's is they do not like to be pushed too hard. There is just not enough bearing surface to grab the rifling. They also like a over powder wad of some sort. I really like to use a hard felt wad that has had T/C bore butter melted into it.

Here is where I get my felt. http://www.durofelt.com/products.html

I can't remember which one I ordered but call them and ask. They get orders for this all the time and they will be able to help you out. The punch I got off of EBAY.

[dualsport]

Thanks again! In the way of more background info concerning my project; I got a CVA Kodiak Magnum .50 for $100. Then a friend gave me his 12 ga. reloading stuff, including 1,000 shotgun primers. I hardly ever reload shotshells except for fun specialty type stuff. Over the years I accumulated a good stash of lead and powder, so... I'm thinking if I make this work I'm in for a lot of real cheap shooting. I'm not an in-line guy but curiosity got the better of me. My real favorite is an old CVA Mountain Rifle .50 that is actually match grade accurate with round balls. So, again, thanks for sharing your info. I think just for the heck of it I'll try a round ball in the Kodiak.

[mooman76]

I have an old CVA mountain rifle too. They are the best CVA ever put out and one of the best production rifles you can get also.

[Newtire]

Gun: CVA Optima Pro (old style hex breech plug, unmodified, but with a thin washer in the primer hole to eliminate gap between primer and firing pin plate)

Mold: Lee 250g 50 cal REAL dual cavity. Scrubbed clean with Dawn dishwasher detergent and hot water, smoked (now I know I don't need to do this) and all soot wiped away in cavity with Q-Tip.

Metal: Dead soft lead (can make an impression in the bullets with my thumbnail) cast at 750F from Lee 4-20 bottom pour pot. With the hotter than normal temperature, the lead fills out the mold nicely with nice sharp edges and no wrinkles.
Attachment 118267

Lubed with 2:1 Beeswax/Vaseline. Consistency of Chapstick but does not melt off even in 110F weather.

Attachment 118269

Charge 45-90g (by volume) Alliant BlackMZ. Not the best powder around, but 1/2 the cost of what I've found to be the best (Blackhorn 209).

Overpowder card made from cardboard cereal box and punched with sharpened 1/2" steel pipe.


After the powder and card are loaded, push down real hard with the ramrod.

Although Lee claims you can push the REAL's down with just a ramrod, I used a homemade short started and mallet to start the bullet in the rifle, then the ramrod to push it the rest of the way down and be sure you seat the bullet firmly against the card/powder.



Results at 50 yards.



Right now I am plinking with 45g (volume) of BlackMZ. It is about as accurate as the 70g load, but costs less per shot.

There are 2 tricks to getting consistent shots with this very coarse, irregular powder.

1. Loosely pour the powder into the measure and level off the top without shaking or letting the powder settle.
2. Clean between each shot. Both sides of a dry cotton patch (cut up T-shirt) is sufficient. The powder leaves white "crusties" in the breech region which will make seating of subsequent shots inconsistent.

Attachment 118277

A clean up of the barrel consists of a patch soaked in CLP followed by a couple of dry patches. No leading and no build up even after 20+ shot sessions. Be sure to clean the breechplug too.

Hope this helps.

Hi RS, I'm wondering if it's your lube giving you those crusties? As long as I used beeswax/olive oil I was golden but the use of my version of the tried & true Felix lube left one melluva hess. With 777, I got the crud no matter what I used.