How I cast bullets

[doccash]

Howdy All, I was wondering if it is an acceptable practice to leave the unpoured metal in the Pro Melt furnace to cool and harden? I always use 20:1 metal for my casting. Also, why do you think that my bottom spout drips sometimes between pours. Is this normal or does something need fixing/cleaning? Thanks, Dr.C

[waksupi]

Howdy All, I was wondering if it is an acceptable practice to leave the unpoured metal in the Pro Melt furnace to cool and harden? I always use 20:1 metal for my casting. Also, why do you think that my bottom spout drips sometimes between pours. Is this normal or does something need fixing/cleaning? Thanks, Dr.C

Hi Doc. I like leaving some lead in my pots, as they melt quicker on next start up, than if they were completely empty.
Dripping pots are more or less, a fact of life. Some clip a pair of vise grips to the top of the spiquot, to add more weight. You can also drain the pot, disassemble, and spin the cut off in the drip hole, with some valve grinding compound, to mate the surfaces better. It could also be something as simple as a bit of dirt, that didn't get fluxed out of the alloy.

[doccash]

Waksupi: Maybe I'll learn to post correctly and thank you for the information. Dr.C

[Papa smurf]

Good informaion, I been using a wet wash cloth for many years . Just set the mold blocks on it for a second or two,with a boolet inside. Also I never use a stick to cut the spru , I have a welders glove on my right hand that I grasp the mold blocks with and thumb open the spru plate. I then pinch the bottem of mold blocks and open the mold with my left hand,takes a little practice. I Feel a mould is a finer thing and should not be hit with a hard wood stick. I have a Lyman #358429 I been using since the early 1960's Besides once you get the hang ove it you can cast much faster.

[Thor Bloodax]

Papa Smurf, you must have hands like the Terminator. I am a big guy but I do not think I could ever thumb off the sprue on a 4 cav mould, maybe not even a single cavity. Can you crush a black walnut in your fist! Or a brick? What a man!

[garandsrus]

Thor,

I use my gloved hand to cut the sprue all the time too.... I cut the sprue right after the final cavity changes color, or hardens, which is within 10 seconds of pouring the final cavity. It takes almost no effort even with a 4 cavity mold. If it is taking effort, you need to cut the sprue sooner or get the mold hotter.

I do preheat my molds on a hot plate which makes a huge difference in how the mold starts out the casting session.

I also return the sprue to the pot right after being cut.

John

[Papa smurf]

Thanks garandsrus---- every now and then someone agrees with old Pap smurf.

[Thor Bloodax]

Hey Papa Smurf, I was not doubting you. I was admiring your physical accomplishments. I just never did the thumbing off technique. I usually have let the spur harden and then whack it off. On my rig, if I try cutting too soon before hardnening, the lead smears. I'll see what I can do to improve this.

[afish4570]

When my wife sees me casting, she always moans boolits again. I try to convince her that looking at table piled with a batch of water coolered 457122 boolits is like motherhood or fatherhood and must be done to be really appreciated. She just shakes her head thinking I am nuts.....could be slightly...afish4570

[DJWright]

Hi guys, just curious as to how many moulds you fellers find casting with at one time to be optimum. I use 6-7 at one time. dependingon if I'm using 2 or 4 gang moulds.

[Taylor]

Water Displacement-40th try!

[BigBore56]

WD-40 is a "water displacer", and worked great in the old days to dry out a distributor cap when you drove thru a water hole.

Now, we have lots of better lublricants, petrolium based and synthetic. They all do a great job...I would only use WD-40 to flush out the tumblers in padlocks!

[Reddot]

Don't use WD-40 for padlocks, eventually it will gum up the works.

[Bert2368]

Have any of you tried Boeshield?

http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm

I use it on cast iron wood working tools, where it does what the manufacturer says... I've not tried to REMOVE it, however. So I have no idea yet if it would be a good choice for Iron mould blocks, or if it stays on too well.

A big + on WD-40, it woks better as a lubricant remover than as a long term lubricant. I've frequently used it as a cleaner when re-building trailer hubs somewhere without a parts washer available. For outdoor locks, Triflow is the thing.

http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Sup...r_aerosol.html

It actually does what WD-40 claims to do. When I put a new magazine lock out in the field, first thing I do is litterally fill it with triflow.

[Maven]

Bert, I've tried Bo-shield on the moving parts (chain, derailleurs) of my road bike, but it won't get a serious test/work out until the weather gets warmer and all the fine sand & gravel is swept from the area roads. Btw, L.L. Bean also sells it.

[Jaybird62]

I'm in agreement with the WD40 problems. Cleaned, dried and put in a air-tight environment will help prevent rust.

[slickrock]

use FLUID FILM to store your molds and you'll never have a problem, also use it on your guns, boots, door hinges, snowshovels, you name it.

best stuff ever made.

[testhop]

slickrock
i agreeon the fluid flim.
the navy uses it on ships. so you know it must be good.

[stephen perry]

Your's is a brilliant explanation of Casting. Most of the responders aren't appreciating what you write or don't know how to write themselves so the WD 40 spin-off.

I for one appreciate well thought out writing and for the new guy save this one dude because it don't get much better than what BHP wrote.

Stephen Perry
Angeles BR

[Russ in WY]

Fluid Film Goooood stuff. Have seen the ole salt water ocean side test results & it beat all comers Hands Down. Good on all metal surfaces that you want to protect.
My 2¢ Russ.

I was under the impression that it was Fish Oil in WD40. Some folks say they actually use it on Arthritic Joints to there fishing gear...