Shooting Chrony F1

[oldred]

I have decided to buy a chronograph but know very little about them, for the limited need I have for a chronograph I am looking at the basic models (think cheap!) and would like some owner/user input about these, especially the Shooting Chrony F1?

My needs are simple and I really won't be using this thing a lot but I would like something that is accurate and reasonably reliable, are these decent for the price and what advantages would I get by spending another $50 or so? I think that 99% of what I will use it for is 45 caliber ammo in 45/70 and 45/90 with maybe an occasional arrow or two for an archer buddy of mine, it will be used exclusively for outdoor light shooting conditions if that makes any difference. I am leaning to this F1 model but before I buy I wanted to ask if there would be a compelling reason(s) to buy an upgraded model or maybe a different brand?

[rnelson11]

Get the master model with the external display/control so that when you hit it you will only have to buy the sensors. Believe it or not I hit mine last week with a 50 Beowulf and after I glued the sensor housings back together and got the metal housing straightened out it actually still works. Had I bought the basic model with the display built in it would have been toast.

[LtFrankDrebbin]

I've got the chrony F1, does the job just fine. Mine gets used for .177 air rifle, .22 rim-fire and .25 center-fire.
It can get a little finicky even in day light. If the morning sun is casting from the side it will upset the readings. Easily overcome by using the diffusers and casting shade to that side with a box or something.

[Bohica793]

I have an F1 and use it for everything from 9mm up to 45/70. It just works. I will get the computer interface cable for it someday as I am just a geek like that. What LtFrankDrebbin stated regarding light is true but I get around it by draping a piece of cloth on top of the diffusers so that the sensors are shaded.

[sdcitizen]

I have had an F1 for almost 10 years, survived one shot with a 45 so far and still working. It reads pretty close to a pact that a friend has. The only complaint I have is if it has an error, you have to walk to it and re-set it.

[gajeff]

As RNelson said, go with the master with the remote display. After several hundred rounds through it I finally hit it. 45LC. Bent it all back and it still works. I called Chrony and they sent me a new unit for cheap money.

[triggerhappy243]

I use an F1. and I have never had any issues with its performance. got it back in 1998 from bass pro. It truly is all you need in a chronograph. the shade prop rods are 2 piece and if you keep your bullet path to go 6-8 inches above the pick up sensors, and directly over the center of both sensors, you will never hit it. I keep mine set up 12 feet away from the muzzle and NO CLOSER. if you are going to use this for muzzleloaders, buy the protector shield for the lcd display screen. weigh down your tripod with a sandbag weighing 4-5 pounds to better stabilize the whole setup.

[oldred]

Ok thanks, I will get that thing headed this way today.


Now about the shooting part, I have heard of people building shielding around these things and since I am a retired mechanic/machinist with a welder/torch/saw and all kinds of metal handy I thought maybe I would cook up some kind of protection for this thing, is it worth the effort or a silly idea?

[DeanWinchester]

I recently picked up a magnetospeed chronograph. It's a little pricey but its leaps abd bounds ahead of traditional shoot through style chronographs. Unless you set it up wrong and don't use the provided alignment gauge, it's almost impossible to shoot the thing AND it works in any light conditions.

[Tar Heel]

I have been using a red F1 for about 25 years with no problems. When you can't for the life of you get it to work, you have too much light at the incorrect angle on it. Works best on overcast days or with low sun angles. It's been a champ and was even shot once and survived. A squib load hit it low. The load did not light off for some reason other than missing powder.

Regarding shielding, I have never hit the chrony through poor aim. If you take your time and do not flinch, you will be fine. If you can't aim beyond 10 feet, I question why you are shooting firearms anyway. Those who make armor shielding should sell their guns or learn sight alignment & sight picture. Yea I said it.

[triggerhappy243]

I looked back at what you plan on shooting across it. I know for a fact that if you set this up per my advice, you should have no trouble getting all your shots across it without destroying it. My only concern would be the muzzle blast knocking the sky screens off. I made replacement screens out of white plexi-glass. they are 1 piece and just bow on to the wire rods. sunlight needs to be overhead if you have clear skies, if the sunlight comes from the side, that is a problem.

[oldred]

I probably was just daydreaming about building the shield, I just see all these incidents of the darn things getting shot but then there are others that have shot through them for years without damaging one. Besides for no more than this one costs it wouldn't be a major disaster if I do shoot it, if it happens I will fess up and we can get a good laugh out of it!

Thanks guys for the replies, I have it on the way and now all I have to do is wait on the big brown Christmas sleigh!

[35 shooter]

The f1 is the only chrono i've used...had it for years. I feel even better about mine after reading the feedback here.

[John Boy]

At 10 feet, no shield is needed unless you are a poor aim. Do recommend a paper shield in front of the chronograph when shooting black powder reloads where the smoke distorts the readings

[triggerhappy243]

the shield I refer to will protect the lcd screen from particles coming out with the muzzle blast. NO, it is not a bullet proof screen. It is a shooting chrony option they sell.

[lefty o]

for a shield, just tape a piece of plexiglass over the display, it will protect and you can still read the display. we do that when chronoing shotguns to protect from stray pellets. no, plexiglass wont help if you shoot it with your rifle!!! the plain old F1 works fine.

[454PB]

I've owned several chronographs over the last 40 years and never damaged any of them. I presently own a Chrony F1 Master with the remote readout and a Competition Electronics that has the readout on the front. I added a piece of plexiglass to the front of the CE to protect it from boolit lube, I just glued it in place with silicone caulking. Though I've never had it happen, there is a possibility that a gas check might hit the readout, the plexiglass is heavy enough to fend it off.

My suggestion is to place the screens at least 15 feet from the muzzle. My .338 WM, .300 WM., and my 454 Casulls all produce enough muzzle blast to give false readings.

[triggerhappy243]

454, I meant to point that out as well, the bigger the gun, the more muzzle blast. Excellent point.

[triggerhappy243]

I should point out that ONLY LEXAN is impact proof from hard objects like lead fouling and sabot wads. this might make a neat experiment... just how much could a 1/4 inch thick piece of lexan take without penetration.

[Bullwolf]

The F1 Shooting Chrony will occasionally act up in direct sunlight, indirect or angled sunlight, and sometimes in the shade as well.

I got sick of the lighting hassle, and just bought a couple of battery operated magnetic LED lights from Amazon.





I mount the lights on the screens pointing down at the sensors, and now the chronograph always reads. (no more freaking errors) I no longer have to rely on the perfect amount, angle, or quantity of sunlight to read my velocities.




As an added bonus - The lights even fit inside the F1 Shooting Chrony when it's folded up, making them easy to store (and more difficult to leave at home) as well.




- Bullwolf