Another reason for it not cycling fast enough could be the air hose length. If it's too long, it could be the lag of the air coming in and then exiting the line. The longer it is, the longer it will take.
The breather hole in the cylinder could possibly be drilled out to allow it to retract faster?
I am not a machinist so I just bought a brass ball that would thread on the shaft.
With more mass you will be slower in retracting as it takes more time to get the increased mass moving.
I think a combination of more mass and a stronger return spring would let it pulse at 1/10th a sec.
I can shorten the airline and basically put the valve almost on the cylinder and try it. But I don't think it will matter much.
The slow down is the cylinder has a very small opening and it can't be enlarged because of the threads. Its what happens when you go with small cylinders.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
If you want to try different ones I could whip you up a set, I still have some brass stock I made mine from.I am not a machinist so I just bought a brass ball that would thread on the shaft.
With more mass you will be slower in retracting as it takes more time to get the increased mass moving.
If your cylinder actuates another arm in the middle with a pivot at the bottom and tapper at the top. You will have twice the velocity and half the stroke on the cylinder at the tapper vs it being on the cylinder itself. The closer you move the cylinder towards the pivot the shorter it will need to move to make the tapper travel the same distance, thus faster your cycle could be.
You loose power as you do that but power is not really all that important in the end it is inertia we are counting on.
Watch this video again and notice the gap between the tappers on either side, then look at how far the cylinder strokes to close both gaps. Moving less and slower than the tappers themselves.
Moved the air valve to within 1/2 inch of cylinder.
Running at 1/10th of a second
http://youtu.be/O1qQGH1zQ1Q
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
Hatch,
Great improvement by moving the air valve closer.
Do you mind me asking which air valve you are running? Are you happy with them?
-Steve
-Wildcat
For the mount..
I will get a thicker metal piece.
Have it attach to the bolt and stud on the side. Then have it wrap around the front and attach to the bolt on the front.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
Sorry I didn't see this earlier...Originally Posted by WildcatBrass
We use MAC brand at work so that's what I used.
I have used cheap ($20) ones from eBay on other projects and those work just as well.
The air valve for the tapper is 120v because I am trying to make it stand alone for those who want that feature.
When I switch it to the PLC which will be sometime soon (maybe tomorrow night or Monday) it will be switched to 24vdc as that is what the PLC provides.
My original automated MC used MAC brand and I haven't had a issue.
I am trying a different brand on my new setup to try them out.
Not sure how the new ones will work as they have smaller 10/32 ports which would mean less air flow. It may not matter because I use 1/4 inch od air tubing for my setup.
New setup uses five air valves.
(1) lead pour
(2) air control - kills air flow to movement valves
(3) down stroke
(4) up stroke
(5) tapper
The air control valve allows manual operation of the master caster when the panel is in stop mode. When the master caster is in run mode is allows air to go to the movement valves.
I am using two valves on movement because its what I have on hand. You could use a single four way five port setup (think that is the one)
But I wanted total control over the movement cylinder and with two independent valves I can do that.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
It will be interesting to see how well that makes the stuck projectiles fall. I was going to try and get mine to tap the mold half to make it jiggle back and forth. I figured striking the arm where yours is directed you are fighting against the angle plates that open the mold halves. I still see movement, hopefully enough vibration to get the stuck projectiles to fall. If it works, that is where i'll aim for too. For the way i was thinking, my concern was potential wear as the mold hits the end of it's so called stroke as it pivots on the split pin.
Then again, i could use a lower pressure to limit the force being applied to it.
Look at this video
http://youtu.be/B0TWNmgEMnM
The German guy taps the same spot and also taps the sprue plate.
In would be afraid that tapping the sprue plate would wear something. Either elongate the hole in the sprue where the bolt goes thru or wear out the bolt itself.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
I do see where he is striking the arm, it surprises me that it gives enough vibration, but obviously does.
Sadly, another weekend down and i have not had time to play with my MC. So many things to do, not enough hours in the day.
Didn't get anything done on the MC today. Had other projects to deal with.
I know how I am gonna do the mount for the tapper on the side.
Just need to do some other stuff.l this weekend
Last edited by HATCH; 11-09-2014 at 08:36 PM.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
I have X-mas holidays coming up in a few weeks, hopefully i will get some time to myself to play with my MC too. Not loving how much life is getting in the way of my projects though.....
Looking forward to seeing how you mount the tapper for the right mold half, i'm still between tapping the bottom side of the mold or the sprue plate. I'm with you thinking tapping the plate may not be the best idea as it may cause wear. The only way is to give it a go really and see how violent both options are.
Your cylinder looks larger than the ones i have. Hopefully mine will still have enough power to do the job....
I think tapping the sprue plate may be OK. Messed around earlier. No way to do the right side unless I loose the handle.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
I'd think it was ok too, as it is just creating vibration, not any real movement or enough force to bend anything. The only possible issue is small flakes of lead being caught behind the sprue when it bounces. It moves a little allowing a little lead in, but the chances of this being the cause of the leading is very remote. It is mostly due to cutting the sprue when the lead is a little too soft.
I'm lucky enough to not have a handle attached, but that still does not cater for everyone, unless you can get underneath it to hit the mold, but then you have bench mounting issues....
I found something that might help with the tappers
http://www.clippard.com/cms/wiki/qui...er-application
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
I originally thought of tapping the bottom side of the mold carriers below the pivot. A tap there would likely be the best spot to free bullets as you would be pulling the mold off the bullet, vs just rattling them like what happens tapping at the mold itself.
I never knew they made valves like that, it's pretty fancy. I see a few on Ebay, but they seem a little big....
When I switch to a double acting cylinder for movement I am gonna use those valves on it. That will allow me to drop the air control valve that allows manual operation.
Basiclly I think all my cylinders will have them installed.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
The only issue i see is if you want to slow your cylinders down, it may mess with the flow restrictors.
Mine have not yet arrived, but i hope to slow mine down so essentially they run like a hydrualic cylinder does, slow and smooth. My thinking was that the pressure on each side of the piston would help with this. If you have a valve like that, the pressure difference on each side of the piston would be quite different.
With that said, i have no idea how it will run in a real world test, it may work perfectly and allow the machine to run with the handle effortlessly like you wanted it to. Will they allow air being drawn in and pushed out? they have one way valves in there, wonder if that will be an issue or not.
*pulls up a chair* Looking forward to seeing how it goes.
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