I have no idea what it would take on a mastercaster, never seen one other than photos and videos.
I have no idea what it would take on a mastercaster, never seen one other than photos and videos.
This is the "long cut" of what I am going to try.
The brass "nockers" are held to the steel with counter sink allen head bolts, the bar stock will pivot in the center(ish). The scalloped "actuator" clamps to the drive arm I built. So when it is camming over center it, hitting the micro valve, gives it 4 quick taps with the mold down and open.
The cylinder is spring return, thus the single airline.
I think it can all sit behind the casting machine, so except for the part that hits the valve, it could just be mounted to a plate that sits under the casting machine itself. I think I am going to try it under the bullet/sprue bin first as that would be the quickest for a test run.
I like the concept, only needing one cylinder but strikes both sides of the mold. It will be interesting to see how it works when setup.
How does it do 4 strikes with the micro valve? I understand that you can use a switch so that the ram hits a set point the switch will stop the air moving and the ram will open and repeat. How do you initiate this? another switch to provide air to this circuit?
The micro valve extends the cylinder when depressed and it retracts it when at rest.
The part at the upper right of the valve in the photo above fits on the arm that runs my mold back and forth. Each "bump" will cause a tap, each valley will relax the cylinder.
Something like this, mounted.
Last edited by jmorris; 10-01-2014 at 11:18 PM.
My machine runs slower than the air powered ones do. You can see the dwell time of the crank when the mold is open and down in this video.
Yours does move nice and slow, but smooth. No need to pause like the air powered versions.
It does sit down for more than long enough for tappers to do their job. I'm keen to see how it performs when mounted.
Unfortunately his design is unique to his unit as its not a master caster.
I don't see how the comb could be applied to the original master caster operation as the mold is still in motion until the bottom of the stroke.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
Got a call from the shop that the parts I requested to be made are finished.
When I get back will figure out final mounting . touchscreen will be here by then as well
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
What relay are you using? I don't think I have seen one that uses a touch screen.
Touchscreen is for the master caster PLC control. I do have access to smart relays that have displays but they are expensive and for most people unobtainable.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
Oh, what one did you get? I went with the Cmore micro, not as nice as some of them but the price was right.
I got the same one off eBay for $150 shipped
Its the cheapest touchscreen that I have found out there that will directly interface with the clickpc.
Even has drivers to access the points.
Suppose to be easy to setup too.
Last edited by HATCH; 10-04-2014 at 07:56 PM.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
I am no PLC guy by any means but it took me longer to program the display than it did to program my PLC (learning both by trial and error).
Now setting up #2, 3-however many is where it is super easy, just wish I knew more than I do. Would likely find a lot more uses for them and they are getting really cheap these days.
Well, The kiddo went with Mom this morning so I threw the stuff together and tacked it to the machine for a test. It works but not really what I had in my mind.
Sitting there watching it, I came to realize that an electronic version would be easy to implement with my cool down timer switch. Looking forward to what you come up with Hatch.
Edit, I generally don't throw the bullets and sprues on the floor but wanted to show how it worked and where it was mounted.
Nice job Jmorris, i was wondering how you were going to mount the arms, i didn't think if mounting them that way, i thought you were going to go around the back or something.
I like the rack you used to activate the tappers, so very simple, i was trying to work out how you were going to get it to pulsate, now i can see how.
Around the back would be how I would mount them if I keep it, just so I can slide it back on the cart when not in use, under was just quicker.
My first rack had an extra tooth and the speed between on/off was too fast for cylinder reset so I had to go from 4 taps to 3.
Not really sure why I don't like it but at least it was free and saved me a few beers. Maybe they will give me another idea this evening (but I bet I will wait to see what Hatch comes up with before I get back to that machine).
I thought the way he was talking about doing it was to only tap one side of the mold (sprue side). He was going to use a smart relay so you can get it to cycle on and off to give it the tapping action. I believe the easiest way to control its on and off action was with a limit switch so it knew when the arm was down.
Your way hits both mold halves, which is ideal, hopefully hitting one side alone will be enough. I hoped to setup two cylinders to strike the mold, just not 100% sure on how i will mount them yet.
Lets hope the beers give you the required inspiration
I have a switch already mounted that triggers when the mold is down and open, that is where it stops for a cool down pause.
I might have an extra timer circut somewhere but I know I have a few turn signal flashers that would give multiple taps (just not very easy to adjust). The only solenoids I have that would give much of a tap would be starter solenoids though.
I like the flasher unit idea, the heavier the load, the faster it should flash (if not the electronic type).
I was thinking a starter solenoid to work as a tapper a while ago, but i thought they may have been a little too powerful and cause damage.
If you use a flasher unit, you could use an air solenoid if you had one at hand switched by the flasher unit.
Maybe a viewing underneath and up would showcase better. Looked like the tap prompted release of the boolit as opposed to it releasing later, but hard to tell. All out of scrap parts...another wow
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