Tappers for the Master Caster

[HATCH]

I figured I would start a new thread to discuss this since we have been discussing this in another thread.

I have a idea that I am sure that will work but I have to order the parts in.

Basic parts
(1) Air cylinder -

6498K135

Round Body Air Cylinder, Nose-Mount, Spring Return, 5/8" Bore, 1" Stroke

(2) Air Valve - I am gonna just use what I have
(3) Smart relay - Veris same one as I use on all my little projects
(4) limit switch

The object of this discussion is to design and implement a "tapper" that will tap the mold and free any stuck boolits.
This can be seen on this Youtube video - > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0TWNmgEMnM

My plan is to install the limit switch at the bottom of the stroke. When the mold carrier hits the bottom of the stoke it will engage the limit switch which will energize the smart relay.
The smart relay is set to do repeat function at X amount of milliseconds. I say X amount because at this time I don't know what that amount is.
The smart relay will cycle the air valve and "pulse" the air cylinder.
On the video he used two tappers. One for the mold and one for the sprue.
I plan to just use one tapper to start with. The basic design will allow you to do multiple tappers should you want to.
The reason I went with a separate limit switch as I wanted a design that could be used with any automation setup.

I will make a brass piece to fit over the shaft of the cylinder. I chose brass because I wanted it to wear before the carrier did.

Yes I could just edit the PLC program to doing the tapping for me but then it wouldn't be as easy for other people to duplicate.

The relay will do as short as .1 seconds so that is where I will start.

[ReloaderFred]

For my Mark 6 Bullet Master, I use these for tappers: http://www.zoro.com/i/G1990152/

They may be a little long for your use, but they have other pistons, and shipping is free with a $25.00 order.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[HATCH]

How did you handle the tapping?

[Tazza]

That is exactly what i was going to use on mine. I have a pile of little single acting cylinders about that size.

I don't know if just one is enough though. You may need to tap both sides to get reliable dropping.

[HATCH]

If you look at the video he does the sprue and the left side

[Tazza]

I did see the striking of the sprue plate, i just wonder if it is enough contact to shake the mold half its self. I wanted to tap both sides together, but any vibration is better than than none, it only needs a little to get them to fall most of the time

[HATCH]

I plan to polish all my molds and then do the tapper on the left side.
But you know that the right side is normally the one that sticks most of the time.

I figure its better then what we have now, which is nothing.

Going on vacation next week then its full blown production.

[big bore 99]

I must say, pretty ingenius. I spent my whole life as a tool and die maker and have built some automatic machinery. Great job too on the sprue cut off and reset.

[Tazza]

Mine sticks on the right side too, I'm going to give polishing a go then smoke them after and see how it goes.

big bore 99 - It sure did evolve quite well from a hand operated version, to air, then to automatic. I wonder where it will end up and how reliable it can get.

[ReloaderFred]

If the tapper strikes the left carrier from the side, it will knock a stuck bullet out of the right mold half. When I'm casting with my Master Caster (which is rare anymore), I keep a small plastic mallet laying next to the left side of the Master Caster, and when a bullet gets stuck, I just pick up the mallet with my left hand and gently tap the side of the left carrier. It normally only takes one tap to jar it loose. I'm calling them left and right as I look at them while casting.

On the Mark 6 Bullet Master, the tapper strikes the sprue cutter and the right half of the mold as you're looking at it, just as the sprue cutter starts to move and has just cut the sprue. There are also a pair of tappers at the bottom of the carrier wheel that give it another tap when the molds are being held open to knock out any bullet that is still stuck in a mold. When all three tappers are working, it does a pretty good job of emptying the molds and getting them ready for the next pour.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[Tazza]

Thanks for the info. I didn't think that just striking one side would have been enough, but it obviously is. It may be time to setup something as a test to see what works for me, if i can get away with just tapping these two areas or not.

It is very rare for me to get a stuck sprue, but it does happen from time to time, but the lead pour generally melts that away pretty fast.

[ReloaderFred]

When the sprues stick, I know it's time to spray the sprue cutter again. My problem with the Master Caster is some bullets stick worse than others, normally .45 caliber, since a small portion of the bullet is still under the sprue cutter when fully open. A light tap on the left side normally knocks it out.

The Mark 6 is another matter entirely. Without the knockers on that machine, bullets stick all the time. They're air actuated, and if the relay doesn't work right and activate the knockers, just about every bullet sticks in the mold. It seems .38 caliber bullets are worse on that machine.........

Hope this helps.

Fred

[HATCH]

Air cylinder for the tapper will arrive today. I already have the relay and right now I am gonna set it up to do 120vac because I have a extra air valve thats 120v.
This is keeping with the stand alone feature that I am trying for.
I want to make it so anyone can add the tapper to any master caster regardless of the automation design or even if its automated.

[HATCH]

This project is gonna be on hold till mid Oct. Gonna be on vacation. I did get the air cylinder in. Made a bracket. Need to make a piece to fit on the end of the rod

[Tazza]

Enjoy your time off!

When it is up and running, you can then alter the controls to fit any machine as a stand alone unit. The hardest part is to get the tapper(s) in the required area and work out the forces that are needed to get them to release the projectiles.

[HATCH]

I am doing it as a stand alone setup

[jmorris]

I have a new mold that doesn't like to drop and have started digging through my stuff to see what I can make to tap it out. Looks like it will be pneumatic but no electronics.

[Tazza]

I like the idea of a stand alone tapper module, it can fit any machine setup with no additional coding or complications.

Jmorris - can you do like you had for your lead pour? a 555 timer to operate an air solenoid set to say .5 second pulses and a switch to turn it on and off when the mold is int he dumping position.

[jmorris]

That could be done, more work than what I was thinking of.

What I had in mind is just a micro air switch to a spring retract air cylinder and have a comb that runs across it when the mold is down and open (like the detents in an automatic transmission).

[HATCH]

That would work but what modifications to the machine would you have to do.
Right now I have a design that will require NO modifications to the machine.
No additional holes to the frame of the machine.

I am awaiting the fab shop to make up a few pieces that I designed.
It all goes as planned it will be able to be fitted to any Master Caster.