Trying 20 to 1 lead pewter for the first time. Rounds sure are shinier than soft lead. but the spruce just falls apart when i cut and drop it. is that an issue? maybe I am simply casting too hot?
thanks
Trying 20 to 1 lead pewter for the first time. Rounds sure are shinier than soft lead. but the spruce just falls apart when i cut and drop it. is that an issue? maybe I am simply casting too hot?
thanks
Spruce is a tree, the extra lead on top of the mold is sprue.
maybe thats why search didnt help
Doing a search on "spruce" brought up 668 hits, including your post. This site has an excellant search engine for topics.
I don't type on any forums with my phone because the auto correct "helps" me with my spelling. It don't believe that "sprue" is a word and tries to correct to spruce. There are more than a few other words that get the same treatment.
On the shattering sprues, I am thinking maybe they might still be a little bit too hot. I know that when using 20/1 lead/tin, if I cut early and the sprue drops, it will break up into a crystaline kind of mess. If I let the sprue "flash over" (harden, and then change from shiny silver to a more dull silver), then I count 3-4 seconds, the sprues are alright.
Last edited by Southern Son; 09-16-2014 at 10:50 AM. Reason: MY spelling, not the computers, this time.....
WHEN IN DOUBT, USE MORE CLOUT!
Can't cut soft lead, it breaks. let it harden more and give the sprue plate little taps to cut, not a big whack. Little holes at the cut do no harm anyway.
If a sprue shatters for me, I consider it due not letting it cool enough before cutting. I have never know a truly cold sprue to shatter when cutting.
Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.
I would worry more about the front and sides and fill-out of the boolit than the keister. As long as you have a good square base, don't concern yourself with the sprue cut-off area. Like 44man said above, a little roughness or dimple hurts nothing. I get them too.
Just lube/coat 'em and shoot 'em! Even at those darned spruce trees...............HA...ha!
banger
Bill Gates may not believe "sprue" is a word, but he lives in a fantasy world.
Sprue Definition
dictionary.search.yahoo.com
n. noun
- The hole through which molten material is channeled into a mold.
- The waste material filling or protruding from this hole after hardening.
- The usually plastic rod or framework that secures molded objects, such as model parts or game pieces, before their first use.
So dropping sprue while its soft is a non issue, good to know
I'd wait for the sprue to slightly sink after flashing over before cutting it. It's the reservoir for the mold so you don't get inclusions or pockets.
I do wait for it that long. shrinks a little, then turns color and solidifies. then i cut. and it shatters. the bullet looks good, although doesnt seem as hard as my quenched bullets with soft lead. not that it means anything in the barrel i don't think
Very odd it shatters after the sprue solidifies. Way too much antimony, perhaps?
Scrap range lead, 5% pewter (which is 97 tin 3 antimony)
I've had that happen with straight COWW boolits and it seems I am too hot.
I turn down the pot a touch and slow down casting just a touch more before I cut the sprue.
It works every time.
If they start coming out too shiny and the sprue is hard to cut, I turn it up a touch and cast a little faster til it evens out again.
I would rather have a few pits at the cut then a lump if I need to apply GC's. If too soft you can get a lump and build up of lead on the mold top and bottom of the plate. To cut dead soft with a glove will increase that problem.
Take a wood match, light it and blow the flame out right quick. Use the match head to rub off any lead. I suppose a charred Popsicle stick would work too.
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“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
Part of this is also the geometry and timing of the sprue cutter itself. The sprye plates cavity is angled so when you cut the srue it is picking up on the sprue while cutting and slighlty before ( miliseconds) This can cause sprue to fracture and it then breaks apart when dropping onto a hard surface. This is to help hold the bullet against the plate when cutting takes place. When plate is loose it pushes down and you get the stem left if to much clearence.
You should cut the sprue with little taps at a downward direction. Keep the plate tight on the mold top. Any lead build up can gall the mold top so let it harden enough.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |