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Thread: Please check my Rex C100 PID wiring

  1. #21
    Boolit Master 44magLeo's Avatar
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    Ok, I got my C100 wired up. Hooked up a ohm meter to the AC side to tell if the PID activates the SSR. It does.
    When it first powers up the display shows 888 on both lines. It then changes to C04 on the top line, then changes to 999 on the top line and the K symbol on the second line.
    I got instructions online from FM Franklin PTY.
    When you push the set button it lets you set the temp. If you hold the set button it brings up a list of things. Some of the things on the list don't show up on my display. Some things on my display are not on the list.
    On the list it shows the factory presets for the items on the list. Some of my values don't match the presets.
    My unit lists these things,
    AL1..at..50
    ATU..at..0
    P.. at..20, instructions call for 30
    I..at..130,instructions call for 240
    D..at..20, calls for 60
    Ar..at..0 calls for 100
    T ..at..40
    LCK..at..o, calls for 0100
    The ones on my unit that are not in the instructions are,
    SoH.. at 999..
    SC..at..1
    oH..at..2
    Does the 999 at start up and on the list as SoH mean it can be set to 999 degrees? It only reads degrees Celsius.
    Also what are SC and oH?
    It doesn't seem to want to turn on the AT, perhaps it needs the draw of a heating element before it will turn on. The ohm meter won't draw much current.
    Just used it to tell if the PID would control the SSR, it does. With the TC in a cup of warm water and setting the temp to just above and below the water temp turned the SSR on/off. Just below turns the SSR on, just above turns it off.
    If anyone can tell what some of this means, thank you.
    I'll go read the link on PID's and how they work as well.
    Leo

  2. #22
    Boolit Master

    Mike W1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 44magLeo View Post
    Ok, I got my C100 wired up. Hooked up a ohm meter to the AC side to tell if the PID activates the SSR. It does.
    When it first powers up the display shows 888 on both lines. It then changes to C04 on the top line, then changes to 999 on the top line and the K symbol on the second line.
    I got instructions online from FM Franklin PTY.
    When you push the set button it lets you set the temp. If you hold the set button it brings up a list of things. Some of the things on the list don't show up on my display. Some things on my display are not on the list.
    On the list it shows the factory presets for the items on the list. Some of my values don't match the presets.
    My unit lists these things,
    AL1..at..50
    ATU..at..0
    P.. at..20, instructions call for 30
    I..at..130,instructions call for 240
    D..at..20, calls for 60
    Ar..at..0 calls for 100
    T ..at..40
    LCK..at..o, calls for 0100
    The ones on my unit that are not in the instructions are,
    SoH.. at 999..
    SC..at..1
    oH..at..2
    Does the 999 at start up and on the list as SoH mean it can be set to 999 degrees? It only reads degrees Celsius.
    Also what are SC and oH?
    It doesn't seem to want to turn on the AT, perhaps it needs the draw of a heating element before it will turn on. The ohm meter won't draw much current.
    Just used it to tell if the PID would control the SSR, it does. With the TC in a cup of warm water and setting the temp to just above and below the water temp turned the SSR on/off. Just below turns the SSR on, just above turns it off.
    If anyone can tell what some of this means, thank you.
    I'll go read the link on PID's and how they work as well.
    Leo
    I have 2 of those units (same numbers) and without going out and pulling the covers I only think mine were made in China but not sure of that. I'm going to PM you a text file of the settings of one of mine which might give you an idea or two. P, I, & D are set by the Autotune function. Get that ATU up on the parameter sequence and change it to "1" and then hit the SET button. When it's in autotune the AT indicator will flash till it's done. You'd probably want a load on it like your pot or a hotplate like you are thinking.

    You have to access the 2nd set of parameters to ensure that your unit is set for a K type TC. They usually are ....but. That is where you get those various SL* parameters.

    I've acquired a number of REX manuals and there's a little variation in them. On my sheet OH is 2 and SC is 0.

    I have a feeling that those numbers and symbols you see on startup may be different on different C100's. If things don't work for you I'll record mine and see. Even the lock codes vary a bit from manual to manual.

    Set your parameters to what the sheet says if your's differs from it and give it a try. You'll know more after you play with it a bit.
    Mike

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    One is by the sword. The other is by debt.
    John Adams 1826

  3. #23
    Boolit Master

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    Checked both REX's startup sequences
    Power ON
    InP shows in PV screen first
    C K shows in SV screen

    then goes to 400 in PV screen
    and 0 in SV screen

    then goes to basically room temp in PV
    and the set value in SV screen

    If the TC isn't hooked up it flashes FOUR
    Zeros in the PV screen
    Mike

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    There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
    One is by the sword. The other is by debt.
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  4. #24
    Boolit Master

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    Played with my unit today and came up with a few observations. The 400 in the opening sequence of mine means you cannot input a Set Value of more than 400 C, it won't allow you to. If for some reason you wanted that to be a higher value you can change it in the SLH parameter which is what I'd call the 3rd set. In the 1st set adjust LCK to 1000. Then when you hold SET & Shift key till CoD =1000 (0 on mine) appears you can arrow through the settings with the SET key. The 400 figure on mine wasn't too visible till I shifted to it and it could then be changed. .Didn't get the impression this changed anything on the PV, and suspect PV would have read a higher temperature if it detected it. Being 400 (752F) is higher than I'd ever set it I didn't check that part out. Changing SLH though does allow a higher input SV.

    Also noted my units do not have the capability of setting the decimal places and confirmed that changing SL2 to a 1 will not make mine read in Fahrenheit. It's just not possible to do on mine, a FK02V-AN unit. A googled search also indicated that V is SSR output whereas a M would indicate relay output.
    Mike

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    There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
    One is by the sword. The other is by debt.
    John Adams 1826

  5. #25
    Boolit Master 44magLeo's Avatar
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    Ok, got my PID built, in an old cash box. Hooked it up to the pot. Used the bent wire trick to hold the TC. Holds tip of probe up off the bottom of pot and out from edge about 1/2 inch.
    At first it would over shoot the set temp by a lot. Went over 400 *C, mine reads in *C not *F. No problem. as 370 *C is 698 *F.
    I went into the settings and could only Change a few things. It is a cheap Chinese made unit. I could change the Ar setting, with it set to 5 it doesn't over shoot but once it reaches about 300*C it slows the heating, it starts to cycle the pot on/off.
    Once I got to the SL settings it listed SL1, SL2, SL# and SL4, SL 4 is the only one that I could change, either 0 or 1.
    MikeW1, one of what you sent was the same as I had. The others were different. Thanks for that. A lot of reading. It did help me better understand some of the things about PID's. I learned enough that the next one won't be so cheap.
    I think my PID being a cheap unit is the reason I can't change the settings. It came in a kit for $12.99, with the PID, SSR and one of the very short TC's, I bought a longer TC, about 4 inches long, one as shown in other threads, has the coil spring strain relief. $2.48, And a heat sink, $1.98. Total $17.45, these all had free shipping. The heat sink came quickly, less than two weeks, The TC came about a week later, the PID took the longest. over 4 weeks.
    Next time I get one I will spend a bit more and get one quicker.
    The rest of the stuff I used to build with is stuff I had.
    Next time I will try to find one that gets here quicker, even if I spend more for it. For now I'm pleased with how it operates. even the slow heat up isn't a problem, I set the PID up so I could just plug the pot into it. I can plug the pot straight into the wall, get it hot then hook in the PID.
    I don't cast fast but the better temp control will help get more good bullets with less rejects.
    Thanks for the help.
    Leo

  6. #26
    Boolit Master

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    Really the only thing you probably had to change out of the box is the set temperature and let it autotune. Autotune will set the Ar according the my sheet. I'd put it back to 25 were it me and check it later on. Generally the only values it changes are the P, I & D.

    Far as more expensive units, I have an Auber SYL-2352 and HAD a Mypin TA4-SNR. I really disliked that particular unit and got another REX. In all reality it controls things about as well as the Auber at 1/4 the cost.

    Far as heat up time I wouldn't see how that would be a problem. Both my Lee 10# units get to full heat in right at 20 minutes whether they're hooked to the pot direct or through the PID.
    Mike

    Benefactor Member NRA
    Life Member Iowa Firearms Coalition
    US Army Vet

    There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
    One is by the sword. The other is by debt.
    John Adams 1826

  7. #27
    Super Moderator & Official Cast Boolits Sketch Artist


    RP's Avatar
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    Man I been reading on PIDs for days now and after talking on the phone with a member that has built a few I ordered my parts man I hope all goes well. I am so glad we have so many members that are willing to help out others figure out how to get theirs going odds are I will be asking a lot of ? and sweating the build until its up and running. Wife been laughing at me since I been thinking of building one since 2014 with notes research and shopping. I just hate to buy something just to put on the shelf.
    Reloading to save money I am sure the saving is going to start soon

  8. #28
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    Don't sweat it, they're really not that hard to build and get going (just sounds like it is!).

  9. #29
    Cast Boolits Owner


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    There should be no worries RP. I built one some time back and I am not an electrician. There is lots of good folks here that will help you troubleshoot it once it is assembled if you can take a good picture of it to post.
    "Things always get better once thought, time, and money are applied in the correct amounts at the correct time"
    - No_1 -

    "The only way to deal with an unfree world is to become so absolutely free that your very existence is an act of rebellion."
    - Albert Camus -

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check