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Thread: Starting over..... From scratch.

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    triggerhappy243's Avatar
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    Starting over..... From scratch.

    I have to start my thread over because some of the input I have recieved was not fully understood. TOOLS, Type of mould, Type of lead and content of ad/mix alloys. Posted are a few of my measuring instruments. one is my Dial caliper. which does measure I.D. also is one of my mics.

    I did some comparative reading on this site as well as one other site with regard to cylinder bore dimensions as well as barrel bore dimensions of my revolver. I now know what these are supposed to be........... and they are not what they are supposed to be.

    So the current alloy I am using to cast is Straight COWW. Someone here stated that COWW tin and antimony content is not consistent. the mould is a lyman 429421. 4 cavity. I do know the mould casts too small and I know that each of the cavities are not cut exactly the same as the others. I tried lapping to enlarge and it only opened up the base driving band. this is not helping me.

    So I know I need to somehow increase the cast bullet diameter by .002 (2 thousandths of an inch) in order for the bullets to get sized and lubed in the sizer die I currently have.(.431) Looking into another mould. I dont believe lyman can or will fix this mould so each cavity is identical and large enough in diameter.... Nor do I think Lyman will cut a new mould just for me the diameter I need.

    I have thought of taking all my bullets cast so far, along with the ingots I used and remelting in a larger pot, add some more ingots to have a larger batch to combine, and have some samples made to analyze what the tin and antimony content is. Then add whatever quantity of tin and or antimony to make it right. I will add more Q and A as I get feedback that will help me to the next step.
    Last edited by triggerhappy243; 09-14-2014 at 09:46 PM. Reason: typo

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Yodogsandman's Avatar
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    Confusing. You're using a 429421 mold for a .44 caliber and are using a .451" sizing die that's used for a .45 caliber?

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    OOOOOOOOOOOOps, I will fix that thanks.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    post has been corrected.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Perhaps you might just get an order for some 2-6-92 and do some trial casting with that alloy. It would be casting about as large a useable pistol alloy as reasonable. If that does not get what you need, then you will know you need to get a different mold. At least then you will know exactly what your alloy is, and you will not have a pile of yet unknown alloy and no idea what needs to be done with it.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    true. but I have close to 1000 pounds of this stuff. currently I melt about 50 to 60 pounds per batch. this is how much my melting pot will safely hold. I ladle pour. I am guessing you mean 2%tin-6%antimony and 92% lead?

  7. #7
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    Let's not make this too complicated...it ain't rocket science.

    If you indeed have all of these problems with this mold...do yourself a favor and get another mold. It is not necessary to get all fancy with alloy in order to get good bullets from common COWW...it has been done forever. I have been casting for years and have never used any alloy other than COWW...ALL of my boolits shoot just fine and do not lead. I air cool, size and tumble lube all reg bullets, no TL bullets...and shoot them with no problems in 4 44 specials, 3 44mags, 2 45colts, 3 357mags and a 44mag Marlin 1894. You only need a mold that is true to spec and that is all.

    Once in a blue moon you will run across a gun that wants to lead despite anything you try, but that is a real exception...and I have never had one like that.
    Last edited by shoot-n-lead; 09-15-2014 at 07:46 AM.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master
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    My thoughts lean toward Shoot-N-Lead's advisement. I am loath to trust Lyman or RCBS moulds off the shelf these days if larger-than-nominal dimensions are expected. The 44 caliber as "interpreted" by SAAMI allows for a throat diameter of up to .433" to be within spec, and I count myself very fortunate in that my 44 Magnum firearms are all serviced properly by bullets sized true at .429"-.431". If I run on to a wide-bodied firearm, one of the semi-custom mould makers will be called upon to produce a tool to properly service that firearms' dimensional quirks. The cost isn't much more than that charged by the mega-makers, and you get exactly what you want.
    I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master Cadillo's Avatar
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    A lot of folks are happy casting with straight clip on wheel weights. I'm happy for them, but I could never make that work for me. If you can find yourself some monotype, I once bought some here on the forum, try adding some to your pot a little at the time casting as you go. Take your time and allow a few bullets to cool, and then mic them to see where you are at. Extra antimony reduces shrinkage while cooling, thus yields slightly larger bullets. You may have to do this a few times to get some extra girth on your bullets, but I have to tell you that you might not get to .431. All of my .44's, except for one, have throats that work good with bullets at .430 or .429. My flat top Bisley requires .431.

    You need antimony, and a little extra tin will make things easier too.
    Last edited by Cadillo; 09-16-2014 at 12:41 AM.
    There is some ammo and more ammo. There is never enough ammo!

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    I have "Beagled" many moulds to successfully gets them to drop larger boolits. Please read the article here:
    http://www.castpics.net/subsite2/MoldMods/BDE.pdf

    Hope this helps!

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  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master
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    The "Beagleing" suggestion is one that works. I 've tried it and had good results opening a mold a couple thousandths. More than that causes finning and you have to be a little more picky as to consistently positioning the mold the same distance from the spout for best results, but it is much cheaper than a new mold.
    _________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master Just Duke's Avatar
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    Order an NOE mould in the correct diameter. Any other problems you might have, feel free to give me a jingle. I'm always around.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check