Lee vs Lyman molds

[Pigboat]

I originally posted this in the wrong area (reloading equip) and couldn't figure out how to delete it.

Up until now, the only molds I have used are the Lee aluminum molds. I recently purchased a Lyman mold and would like to ask what differences I might expect when I start using it.

[RobS]

It's an iron mold first off so it will hold heat better meaning you will likely need to lower your pot temp or cast slower. If you are using a current production Lyman mold then you are more than likely going to have to cast with tin in your alloy, hold your tongue just right and cast at a consistent temp to get the darn mold to drop boolits at the intended diameter. I've wrote off new production Lyman molds when I purchased 4 of them and they all cast undersized. Two were 30 caliber rifle molds and the other two were 45 caliber pistol molds. I seldom use tin in my alloy's due to the expense so Lyman molds just don't do it for me. However I did have a late production 452374 RN 45 auto mold that dropped at .454 with wheel weight alloy and I also have an old Lyman 45 caliber devastator mold that drops at .453 with 60/40 straight lead to WW alloy. If it's an old production mold it's likely going to be a good mold. Now a days I would invest my dime on a custom mold if you are looking for a 4 cavity or stick with a Lee mold.

[DrCaveman]

Main difference is that it takes a LOT more to heat it up.

My lee molds work fine just setting them on the edge of the pot while alloy melts, then dip the corner in the melt for 20-40 seconds, and, bam, they are up to temp

My lyman mold requires a hot plate...set pretty high...for most of the duration of the pot warm up. And i change how the mold is sitting on my burner, so that the sprue plate gets some heat too. So, it's like 20 minutes for me on hot plate. I judge it by spitting at it...when it sizzles REAL good and REAL quick, it is about hot enough

Surely others do it better, but this works for me and my 4 iron molds, two of which are lyman

Oh, that's right, i sold one because it dropped too small for my taste

Im with RobS, spend the extra $20 and get a custom. Lately i try to use Lee molds to test boolit shapes, nose profiles, bearing lengths, powder suitability in cartridges. Then pick a good custom mold based on your experience, and that becomes the moneymaker. Or if you screw up and pick the wrong custom mold, you will likely be able to get (most of) your money back from another member here

[Echd]

In my limited and anecdotal experience I often find that my iron molds drop "perfect" boolits very easily and rarely does a boolit stick- however, I find them getting too hot too quickly to be a downside, because I cast fast.

I also find mine to be very receptive to "pressure casting", and tend to get good boolits quickly.

My favorite iron mold is a lyman 429421 I got here for a song. The boolits it casts are fantastic and accurate and I think you will enjoy yours. When storing it for extended periods, bear in mind that it is iron, and will rust, a concern your aluminum molds have not had to deal with. I also store mine with a boolit in the cavity, but that may be just an old wive's tale...

[TXGunNut]

Some of my favorite moulds are Lyman but they are very different from Lee moulds. They seem to appreciate a slower pace and a couple even prefer ladle-pouring instead of a bottom-pour pot. My latest is a 375449 and it does very well in my 375 Winchester. Another favorite is the 452424 that I use on occasion to cast tributes to Uncle Elmer. If it had 4 cavities instead of 2 I'd enjoy it even more.

[462]

Other than the standard cleaning, I've found that my iron moulds -- Ideal, Lyman, and RCBS -- have never required all the end-user quality control measures and finessing that is typical of Lee moulds.

" I also store mine with a boolit in the cavity, but that may be just an old wive's tale..."

My theory is, because the mould halves don't close air tight (vent lines, etc.) and the alloy contracting when cooled, outside air will enter the mould.