Preparing the Master Caster for Automation

[chloe123]

Guys,

In the spirit of honesty, about 24 hours ago, I learned the functions, and purchased, a tap and die set for purpose of (an initial step) of retrofitting my master caster to accommodate a system alla Wyman Winn, Hatch and others.


I have tapped a piece of aluminum as a proof of concept if you will. Seemed like a good idea to practice on a softer metal before risking mangling the Magma


The question: what size tap should be purchased for the 5/16-24 bolts? I struggled at finding this size through 3 local hardware stores. The thread per inch '24' seemed to not match what I was finding

I figured, alternatively, I could choose a different bolt size or thread style that could be screwed into the lead pour base plate of the Magma, instead of what was detailed, but wanted to get opinions first before speculating on different sizes

From Wyman Winn's Master Caster Automation parts listing:
1 – 91251A370, 5/16-24 x 3” SHCS, $7.02 (for mounting 1/2” stroke cylinder to lead valve)


Thank you.

[HATCH]

http://www.grainger.com/product/WEST...eel-Tap-45M982

its fine thread. What you are finding in the local hardware stores are most likely 18 pitch thread

You want fine thread because the bracket you are threading isn't real thick and you want the most threads possible.

[chloe123]

That's right '18' is what I found. Fwiw, I saw the terms 'coarse' and 'fine' but wasn't clear on why it wasn't universal.

the expl'n of fine threads occupying more space and providing a better purchase makes sense--thanks. Ill find one and order it online.

By the way, Hatch, per a previous discussion, I'm gonna take a trip to Magma to drop off the master caster for a PID install

Once heated, the master caster's manual dial was accurate with respect to the reading of a Lyman thermometer, but knowing ideal temperature, esp, when changing to different molds, will be helpful. ...I had one mold that dropped <ugly> boolits unless the pot was set at about 800

thank you

http://www.grainger.com/product/WEST...eel-Tap-45M982

its fine thread. What you are finding in the local hardware stores are most likely 18 pitch thread

You want fine thread because the bracket you are threading isn't real thick and you want the most threads possible.

[chloe123]

I swung by a ACE Hardware and ended up finding the correct tap.

I did a crappy job but hope it'll serve . I felt like the smallish T handle didn't do a lot if favors when it came to keeping the bit straight. Based on the circumstances, I ran it through twice. I dunno if that is bad practice but will test the threads with a 5/16 mañana.

[HATCH]

The second time you run it thru shouldn't cut new threads but basically clean up what you cut. At this point the tap should thread into the hole like a bolt would do.
Having the threads crooked on this application shouldn't be too much of a problem.

[chloe123]

I found some materials locally. Note, the aluminum bar with the 1/2" hole rest on 2 cylindrical aluminum, not brass, posts. Bolts are also not the socket head detailed in the original Wyman post.

The Wyman W parts listing will be followed; working with aluminum as opposed to brass was just easier and good practice

[HATCH]

Did you drill a hole in the lead pour bar for the clevis to attach?

[chloe123]

...mass trepidation over somehow ruining the Magma. The tap(s) on the lead pour plate was shoddy--just at a slight pitch-- but when screwing in the 2 bolts didn't seem to present an issue, though adding a little undue resistance

Since I haven't ordered from McMaster yet, I tried to limit myself to simpler tasks I could test.

Tonight, I'll review the W. Winn main Master Caster Automation thread, no. 18 post, I believe, for the specific drill location of the 2 shoulder bolts near the rear of the housing.

The disassemble of the lead pour bar was easy. I suppose I should just look up the clevis 'pin' diameter size, set it in the vise, and drill it

I also need to review the Magma parts diagram to determine how the mold carrier shaft/assemblage is installed in the the housing.

[HATCH]

I didn't remove the mold carrier shaft. I did have the pot removed because I installed the pid controller at the same time.

[Tazza]

You are doing pretty well for someone that not so long ago didn't know what a tap and die set was used for.

Keep the progress and pictures coming.

[jmorris]

I felt like the smallish T handle didn't do a lot if favors when it came to keeping the bit straight.

If I have to tap by hand I use a homade tapping guide block, you can buy them too.

http://www.flexbar.com/shop/pc/PRECI...aTm7Aodrw4ASgI

I always use a machine to tap when I can. Far fewer broken taps and much faster.

[HATCH]

Your just showing off now.....

[Tazza]

I second Hatch's remark there.

That is one of the fanciest machines i have seen in some time.

[jmorris]

It was agood deal. I have bought the tapping heads for as little as $9 off eBay. They are well worth the money if you do much tapping. I have them with MT tapers that match other drill presses as well.

[Tazza]

I will need to keep an eye out. They would be awesome for production runs. Most of my tapping work tends to favor hard to reach places....

[jmorris]

I will need to keep an eye out. They would be awesome for production runs. Most of my tapping work tends to favor hard to reach places....

I understand, chasing threads is not that big of a deal because you have a place to start. However, creating them is a lot better, by hand, with a block like I posted above. You can make it or but it but they help.

[chloe123]

Huh, what was $36?! Amazing value and obviously in the right hands.

The tool pictured, to center and steady hand-tapping, looks effective. Not sure if it gets somehow sandwiched between a vise and the object but I'll look into it.

[chloe123]

Tazza, is that snafu you ran into on your M.C. resolved?

[Tazza]

I believe the block sits on the object you wish to tap. It keeps it square to the job. Using clamps would help hold it In place.

As for my issue, I hope to get to play with a snubber circut on the relay contacts tomorrow after a trip to the range. I have two solid state relays coming too just in case the snubber doesn't work. At least I know what is causing the isse,I just need to find a fix for it.

Do keep us up to date on your progress

[chloe123]

Earmarking for future update(Magma Digital Temp Controller thread will be updated shortly)

Retired fabricator sold me this steel cart for $35. It's short but sturdy. Felt the top was generous for one MC, maybe even two, if the sides could be utilized


Figured I'd clear a hole on the ~ 1/8" steel top for the dropping bullets. Hole saw is requiring more muscle from the drill.


Or, a second Ryobi to back up the gurgling pioneer.
A rare circumstance where you own 2 cheap tools, and together, the task is completed



The 2 3/8" worked okay for my standards



I need to consider how to remove the narrow strip of steel for the sprues. Not sure if I should use a smaller hole saw and simply drill one-by-one across the width of the machine

9/23

1 1/4" hole saw used under the sprue drop section of the MC. Drilled three times across the length

...I didn't test it yet, and I think a jig saw should have been used, but the area is mostly clear

(Not pictured)

9/24 McMaster Delivery

If you didn't know, my handle is the feline


9/25: though I ordered the brass spacers W Winn detailed, you'll see the original aluminum cylindrical spacers below.


9/26: Substituted a thinner piece of aluminum below to allow some flexibility, while allowing the McMaster supplied air cylinder nut, to be tightened on the shaft on the underside of the aluminum plate. It appears this nut decreased potential flex. With the thinner plate, the 3" bolts better align with the crooked taps in the lead pour plate. I tested the cylinder config with 75lbs pressure. Lead pour lever depressed the same extent with pressure as hand would ...

(The aluminum post length was increased by .5" to account for the difference in aluminum bar width)

9/27:
I wasn't able to find location instructions for drilling the arm of the mold carrier for the yolk. Based on circum.,I expanded 2 pictures from W Winn Photobucket catalog for approximation.


....The rear cylinder has been fully mounted; however there was tension while the mold was in the top position. As it's spring-return, that's a problem. I dont think it is due to misalignment of the 2 pivot screws. I'm pretty sure it involved the 5/8" bar. I was able to remove it, substitute a shorter piece that didn't span the length of the machine, and get it to easily slam down with connected air. No undue tension. I need to resolve this issue and connect drill/trim/connect the return spring

Per "Prof", brass spacers I'm place of aluminum(they have since been filed to match)
Attachment 117707

10/19:

I'm just about a week away from getting final parts for complete assemble . Hatch designed and created the brains to control the Wyman pneumatic apparatus that I installed.

During the process I was concerned about a complete return of the mold carrier. There was just a lot of talk about a substitution of a dual acting main cylinder as opposed to single acting. I wasn't clear if the issue was simply the strength of the return spring, or if it was related to lead dropping, over time, onto the yoke that's attached to the mold carrier. I also wasn't sure if the mold shield that WW fabricated, was used to protect the spring (to assist the return of the mold carrier) that was placed underneath it, and/or if lead was eventually dripping from the orifice plate onto the pin of the yoke, essentially restricting the needed rotation. I thought about moving these parts off center.



Regarding the spring, I tested it by adding a air line to the mold carrier air cylinder, from ~65 to about 90psi. The added strength of the spring did not seem to reduce the downward force of the mold carrier, and the return felt quick and complete.

Regarding moving the mold carrier attachment off center, it appears to be outside the range of dripping lead. Things need to get up and runnin', to figure out what works and what doesn't...