PID question

[Jim_P]

I just got one off eBay for cheap with a 25A Fotek SSR (made in Taiwan - well, not Chinese Mainland I guess). The PID itself is a Sestos. Has both relay and SSR output, came with a K Thermocoupler and the SSR for $38.00 shipped. Got here in less than 10 days (with tracking and the USPS had it in NY for the last 3). It's burning in on the bench, but the temp is 100% accurate, programming was a bit of a pain in the thumb holding the button for so long. Nice mounting (behind the panel) holder. Easy to read - albeit "Chinegrish" - instructions. SSR output is stable to .025 volts (12.6756 - 12.9682 VDC, yes I have instruments that measure that precise).

The K coupler is threaded for permanent mount and has a 1 meter (3') metal braid shielded cable. It's going to get married to my Lee pot here very soon.

Sellers name is gooasis. I've bought a lot of things out of Hong Kong via eBay and never gotten burned. Infact some of them are more reliable and responsive than US sellers. I've actually gotten pictures of items from sellers before they shipped - one even called and left a message with the tracking number! I've bought expensive stereo equipment from there. Don't dismiss them just because they are in China. I've been ripped off by more Americans than Chinese! Just because the seller is in the US does not mean it's easier or safer than another country.

[3jimbo3]

Be wary of the 25A SSRs on E-bay that come from China. I have had at least 4 of them that either did not work out of the box or failed in a short. Go with the 40A, I have had no problems with them and have several PIDs in use for about 1 year.

Ok thank you for that info.

[el34]

el34,
Yes, you are correct. A 40a SSR is not going to be drawing more current to run a Lee pot or a small appliance. However, I was reminding the OP that without the proper internal wiring, he could not just hook up a device drawing 35a and expect to be good to go. Most would probably have the unit hooked up to a 15a breaker, in which case, if the breaker does it's job correctly, it should trip before the internal wiring could fry. If hooked to a 50a breaker, on the other hand, if the wiring inside the unit cannot handle 35a, watch out.

OB

Copy that!
No doubt my comment was something you already knew. I've run across folks that quite innocently haven't had a reason or opportunity to pick up various particulars about electronic/electric subjects and without invitation I jump in with the goal of squishing a potential misconception. Can't remember that far back but there might have been a time when I could have thought a 40 amp anything would pump 40 amps, whatever the heck an amp is.

[3jimbo3]

I went ahead and bought a 40 amp ssr to use in my pid. I'm ready to start construction on it now that all the parts are here. Another question I have is, can I use #12 thnn household wire for the electrical connections? Or do I need to buy specific wire for this project?

[kencha]

No specific wire needed EXCEPT for the thermocouple, if that's what you're using.

12ga THHN would be fine, if not overkill, for most of the connections.

Thermocouple wiring can be an issue, but most TCs come with long enough leads that it probably won't be a concern.

[bangerjim]

Your house is wired with 12 gauge wire. That 40A SSR is just an overkill but will handle up to 40A, which you will NEVER use.

Remember: I=E/R

At 120 vac:
700W is approx 7A
1500W is approx 15A
4500W is approx 45A!!!!!!

What would ever be controlling that draws 45A!?!?!?!?!?!


Use standard stranded 12g wire. Use a 12g line cord also. That way you will stay in the realm of 20A......your household standard outlet breaker for most houses.


You need K t/c extension wire for that part of the system if the wire that comes attached to the t/c is not long enough for you. Standard Cu wire will create inaccuracies (non-isothermic junctions). And you do not need anymore of those with that cheap equipment.

banger

[Cmm_3940]

Insulated 12g copper wire, any sort will do, is adequate overkill so as to never worry about overload of the wiring on the power supply side of the relay (the 15A outlet will melt first ). Stranded will be easier to work with than solid, but romex is OK if that's what you have. Just think standard household outlet wire. On the PID side of the relay, much smaller wire can be used, as there is very little current draw. The thinner wire will be needed to fit under the terminal screws of the PID. I chopped the wiring harness off an old burt-out PC power supply and used that for the PID side of mine.

[3jimbo3]

Alright, I have all my parts in now and I'm starting construction on my pid this afternoon. After I go visit mamaw of course, so you guys hang out a while tonight just in case i need help wiring this thing.

[Walter Laich]

here is a webpage I wrote up about mine
used the Auber box on their site but it's expensive and small inside
I had to put the SSR on the outside, back of the box
.
http://home.comcast.net/~walterlaich/pid.htm

[3jimbo3]

here is a webpage I wrote up about mine
used the Auber box on their site but it's expensive and small inside
I had to put the SSR on the outside, back of the box
.
http://home.comcast.net/~walterlaich/pid.htm

That's a really nice setup you have there. I have mine almost finished, after el34 held my hand thru the wiring process, he was very helpful with this by the way. The only thing left to do on it is to add a plug for the thermocouple and a grommet for the power cord. I have plugged it in and switched it on and everything seems to be working fine. As soon as it's finished I will post some pics.

Thanks everyone for help and opinions, that's what makes it so great here. Everyone is very helpful!

[el34]

Sounds great jimbo!! Way to go!

[3jimbo3]

Ok, I got everything connected and fired up my new pid. It all works except the readout for the actual temp. It just reads (-000). The set temp readout is set for 705 degrees and the pot seems to be cycling on and off. Any ideas?

[3jimbo3]

OK sorry guys, I jumped the gun a little bit there. I reversed the TC connections on the back of the pid and it works just fine. I think it's reading on Celsius instead of Fahrenheit, but that can be changed. As soon as I figure out how to do that.

[el34]

Cool! Do you have the instructions for setting degF?

[3jimbo3]

Cool! Do you have the instructions for setting degF?

I don't think I do. I have the ones you sent me, but I haven't had a chance to look at them real good yet.

[3jimbo3]

Ok, my PID is now working! Thanks to you guys, especially el34 for talking me thru the wiring and setup. It's pretty amazing how these things work and how much better the end product is just by adding one to your casting setup. It should be a law that if you cast you have to have one of these. I just got mine trained tonight and I'm looking forward to using this for a long time. It's sort of like cruise control for your pot. I'm going to build another one for my sizer in the near future.

[Beagle333]

It really changes the game, doesn't it!? You should hook one up to a lubesizer heater too. No more heating it up til it leaks and letting it cool back down til it won't fill the grooves.... it's smooth sailing for the whole time.

[el34]

ok, my pid is now working!

hey!!! Where"s the pics???

[3jimbo3]

I'm working on it, got the pic on the computer, now just having problems getting them uploaded to the forum. I will get them as soon as I can.

[echo154]

RAT$#*t…..the mypin I received is a TA4 RNR….I take it from the above posting that I can't use it with an 25a SSR? Kinda PMO as I ordered it as a package with a 25 a SSR and sink!