RepackboxRotoMetals2Reloading EverythingLee Precision
Inline FabricationWidenersLoad DataTitan Reloading
Snyders Jerky MidSouth Shooters Supply
Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Identifying Beeswax

  1. #1
    In Remembrance / Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Northeastern Pennsylvania
    Posts
    77

    Identifying Beeswax

    I have a 2 pound block of a light yellow wax I picked up at a garage sale. It is still in the plastic wrapper, sealed. How can I find out if it is beeswax or just common regular wax, like paraffin, etc ? It is a lot of wax, and has lots of uses if it is the real stuff.

    Is there any other wax that is commonly sold as pale yellow, transparent-wrapped wax ???

    Is candle wax sold like this already colored ?

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Down East
    Posts
    104
    If it smells like honey, it ain't paraffin.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Cmm_3940's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Central Ohio
    Posts
    766
    I have several 1 pound bricks of beeswax in plastic wrap on a shelf in my reloading room. It smells like honey whenever I walk by.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    1,379
    If it looks like this, it's probably not bees wax.

    Attachment 114737

  5. #5
    Boolit Master fryboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    3 1/2 miles out past the stix on the 9.9
    Posts
    2,774
    hmmm interesting question , beeswax may not always smell like honey ,depends upon how much it's been refined , it does have a "tackier" feel than paraffin ( eg; unless a special blend of paraffin it has more "grab" )
    color doesnt really help either as paraffin can easily be dyed and beeswax can be bleached ( by chemical process or natural means )
    at room temp beeswax is usually more pliable than paraffin
    paraffin also has more soot than beeswax ( eg; beeswax burns cleaner )

    now for a monkey wrench ....( or few ) various vegetable waxes are yellow tinted/tinged , and while most usually have lower melt temps modifiers can change many "normal" characteristics of any wax
    soy wax is a possibility, and it seems to more common lately ,best i can state is it has a silkier feel than either of the above
    there's also palm wax
    and carnuba but by it's self it's perhaps the brittlest of the bunch

    not much help i know ermm i mean clear as mud huh ? :P
    Je suis Charlie

    " To sit in judgment of those things which you perceive to be wrong or imperfect is to be one more person who is part of judgment, evil or imperfection."
    Wayne Dyer
    if it was easy would it be as worthy ? or as long of lasting impression ? the hardest of lessons are the best of teachers [shrugz]
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLzFhOslZPM

  6. #6
    Boolit Master


    randyrat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    North West Wisconsin
    Posts
    2,651
    Beeswax engulfs other waxes and oils so it is tough to tell if it is pure. Mix it 50/50 with ,for sure, beeswax and use it as though it is real. Just make sure it has no chemical odors if you use it for cosmetics.
    Melt a little sliver of it and smell. Chemical odors will come out when it is warm if it is contaminated.

    Bee good

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    6,314
    Beeswax has a relatively low melting point range of 62 to 64 °C (144 to 147 °F). If beeswax is heated above 85 °C (185 °F) discoloration occurs. The flash point of beeswax is 204.4 °C (400 °F).[9] Density at 15 °C is 958 to 970 kg/m³.
    Natural beeswax:[10] "When cold it is brittle; at ordinary temperatures it is tenacious; its fracture is dry and granular. The sp. gr. at 15°[C] is from 0.958 to 0.975, that of melted wax at 98° – 99° compared with water at 15.5° is 0.822. It softens when held in the hand, and melts at 62° – 66°; it solidifies at 60.5° – 63°[C]."
    Regards
    John

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check