HATCH
Changing the power changed the problem. So that would really point to a PS problem.
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Changing the power changed the problem. So that would really point to a PS problem.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
It does seem to look like it, but i have tried two different main power supplies then another dedicated 9v one for the arduino. Chances of all three being bad is rather remote. With me disconnecting the lead pour solenoid seemed to stop all the other glitches. As it was the only thing that is different between my setup to Kayak1's.
Time will tell, i just need to see what i have in my junk pile to fiddle with.
Use a relay between the solenoid and the arduino.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
That is how it is wired now actually.
The digital pin from the arduino goes to a MOSFET that switches the 24v to power the relay. As i am powering a mains device, i couldn't switch it with a MOSFET, it needed a relay.
Now, the MOSFET is actually glued to the side of the relay with it's legs connecting to the coil of the relay. I wouldn't have thought it would cause issues being so close, but who knows? On a PCB they would be equally close.
You know all the man hours you sunk into this and the cost of the arduino, you could of bought a plc
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
Sadly, yes i do..... It was fun working with something new, yet frustrating with the issues i have encountered. I'll hopefully know better for next time.
I think what you have will work. We just have to work the bugs out.
Easy way to fix it is to duplicate a known working system. So lose the electric lead pour and go pneumatic.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
That was my other option, i have some small cylinders that i think will have the power to operate the lead pour.
I don't want to be beaten by an electric solenoid, but it it comes to it, i will admit to defeat and go with an air cylinder.
I am not going to admit defeat but I am trying to rule out any other issues.
It always sucks when you have two problems and you may solve one by switching power supplies but the other is still there so it makes you think the problem isn't fixed but in reality it is fixed but you had two problems.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
That is true, chasing your tail is the worst part. I will get it sorted out one way or the other. I just wish i understood why it is doing what it is doing with the solenoid, if it made sense, i could work out how to remedy it.
Next on the to do list is a bullet collator. An excuse to use my indexing head for the mill, saldy it is still in the box 6 months after i bought it on sale.
After yet another test on the weekend, the electric solenoid has been removed. I removed the wiring from the control box and hooked the solenoid up to a switched power board, this way i could control it from there. I started the machine and dropped lead with the switch, it did a few cycles then stopped yet again. So that's the final straw, the solenoid is destined for the scrap bin. I don't know why it's doing what it is doing, but i'm not playing any more to try and get it to work with the setup.
My dad is off today to see a mate of his that has quite a selection of air cylinders, hopefully he can get hold of one for me that will do the trick. I have a few small ones, but they are far too long and i risk damaging them if they get knocked.
Air ram was hooked up today with a clamp to hold it in place till i mount it correctly. It ran for 466 cycles without any issues.
Hopefully this is the last issue i will have with it *crosses fingers*
Did you put a diode across the relay coil?
I did, but it still didn't behave. It ran fine with the relay running without the solenoid connected. It was very odd but it works now. It will remain a mystery it seems.
Hopefully that will solve your problems and you will be good to go.
I am looking at maybe adding a display to my master caster and making it so I can control all settings from the display.
If it works then I will put lead pour on it as well.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
I'm hoping so too (:
How will you go about adding a display? Will the click plc interface with it? Interesting idea though.
Very good thread.
My MC is hydraulic driven and controlled with timers, a bit more than y'all are considering. My cylinder is a push / pull design which I prefer over the "spring return" you are running since I feel I have more control over the movement. The hydraulic pump is a bit loud so I have considered converting it to a pneumatic / PLC set up such as y'all have but after reading this thread may settle in the middle by keeping my system as it is now but substitute air for the hydraulics. The only other thing I will add will be an inline moisture separator / oiler which will dry the air before adding oil for the cylinder.
Another note on the same subject: Has anyone found a part number for the mold "thumpers" the commercial machines use?
"The only way to deal with an unfree world is to become so absolutely free that your very existence is an act of rebellion."
- Albert Camus -
I think they are called vibrators. I have been looking over the listings for them to try and find something to use.
As far as the push/pull setup I like it more because the sprue gets closed 100% all the time.
Only problem with your setup is that the machine doesn't know where the mold is at any given point. It assumes based on time that the mold is at the top (or bottom) but has no clue. I would try and figure out how to add a limit switch to the top position and then set it to run one cycle.
Right now the Wyman/hatch design is set for one cycle based on the limit switch.
The limit switch closes then the timers start. After it runs the cycle it stops until the limit switch is closed again. So of a boolit is stuck in the mold and causes it to be stuck at the bottom it doesn't keep running.
And as far as adding a PLC, it would be easy to add it to your design even with hydraulics and electronic lead pour control
Last edited by HATCH; 09-23-2014 at 07:24 PM.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
I liked the hydraulic double acting cylinder design, but i was too concerned with making mine run that way. With hydraulics, you stand far more chances of damage if something was to hang up. Most of the pumps generate around 2,000 PSI of pressure, but you can install a relief to drop that down. Hoh did you manage the heat the pump generated, did it need an oil cooler?
Hydraulics are far smoother than air, as it is not compressible. You the tight point where you cut the sprue, it is nice and smooth.
I'm with Hatch on that fact it could be run off a PLC. The simplicity of timers is great though, a lot fewer points that it can fail. The limit switches are really good as it will not move further without it knowing where the mold is.
I have some small air cylinders that i was planning on using as a mold tapper, i just don't know if that will ever be done as most of the projectiles fall out as it is now. The control box was made to have this as a possible future addition (spare digital output).
A flow regulator device on a double acting cylinder won't soften the action while ensuring mold closure is complete?
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