Automated Master Caster and Star run report

[wymanwinn]

just wanted to report that my Hatch/Wyman Automated Master Caster and Star are running beautifully...

on Saturday (8/23) i turned on the MC to warm up.....while it was warming i changed my Dillon 550 to load 9mm.....

when the MC was ready to go, i hit the switches and started pumping out 9mm-125gr RNL bullets at a rate of 750/hr for two hours, only needing to keep the lead lever up while i loaded 1000+ rounds of 9mm.....

after the 2 hour reloading and casting session i then proceeded to lube/size the 1500+ 9mm bullets in slightly less than 1 hour...

BOTH machines ran flawlessly thanks to Hatch's electronics set-up....

so, in three hours i reloaded 1000+ rounds of 9mm-125gr RNL, cast, lubed and sized 1500+ 9mm bullets.....

great way to spend a Saturday morning....

wyman

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Sounds to me like you need to upgrade your progressive to a 650, maybe even a 1050 so you can keep up with the production of the Master Caster.

[dragon813gt]

Now you need to set up a real assembly line. You will need some conveyors and collators for it all. Just imagine going from the master caster to the star to the Dillon w/out having to do a thing except keep the lead pot full.

[HATCH]

Thats the reason I automated the star and the master caster.
Its all about TIME.

Some people have tons of time so that can spend hours casting, sizing and reloading.

I am gonna take a 1/2 day off from work today and clean up the shop.
During that time I will run the MC doing 158 grain 38s. Its really nice to be able to do two things at once.

And Wyman, the credit goes to you. Without the air conversion I would not of been able to automate them.

On another note, I am messing around with using 3 "smart" relays to automate the Master caster.
The relays cost $70 each. You would still need the 2 air switches. So that would be about $300 still just on automation but its easier to setup and adjust. And no computer needed to program.

Limit switch sends power to Relay 1 (on delay) and to Relay 2 (one shot).
Once the timer on relay 1 runs out it will make the contact sending the signal to relay 3 (delay on break)

Relay 1 is set to be "on delay". This would be the cool down timer. This relay runs at the same time as Relay 2.
Relay 2 is the lead pour timer. Its a one shot meaning when its activated it will close for a preset amount of time. This relay can be adjusted down to the 1/10th of a second.
Relay 3 is the movement control. Its what moves the mold to the bottom and can be adjusted to allow the mold to cool. Its set to delay on break meaning that its always powered up and it uses a control signal to start it. Once it gets a signal it will keep the contact closed regardless of if the signal is still present.

All the relays are adjustable down to the 1/10th of a second.

[chloe123]

Have you ever considered building a set of instructions for either your lead pour automation, or full automation? Your conceptual descriptions are vivid and clear, and in past threads, have taken the time to reference exact parts. But unless the "how" is detailed, or the person is a savant, the transformation will stall. I look in awe at all the pictures of an increased efficiency system, and read the posts, but still can't come up with a workable game plan to automate.

[sdharley]

Hi Hatch. Where can I buy the relays? I will have time to work on mine this fall. Are you using 12 or 110 volt?

[HATCH]

I will work on getting something written up with pictures

Sdharley,
Right now I need to prove that it (three relays) will work.
If I can get it working then I will work you a great deal on the setup as the relays I am using are free samples.

[sdharley]

Thanks a lot Hatch. Appreciate all the work you and others have done. I have the Wymin air power now and that is a great improvement over manually pulling the handle. Haven't automated the lead pour yet as I was wanting to go full auto

[HATCH]

Hey Wyman, remember my beta setup video I did to test the star automation out with?? - > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6Vhw67Rx3A

Well, got a new video -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90loSqcmneQ

Proof of concept- Master Caster automation using 3 relays. It is setup for 120vac. Still would need a single limit switch and two 120v air switches.
Part # on the relays is Veris VTD2P-F50 - My cost is $70 each. Yes its the same relay I used for the Star Automation but used 3 instead of 2
Air switch - Automation Direct - AVP-31C1-120a - $18 each
Limit switch is from a old float switch.

So total in parts to automate a pneumatic controlled Master Caster would be about $250 not including a enclosure.
Keep in mind this is using a expensive smart relay.
I am sure someone can use cheaper relays that cost $20 each.

[sdharley]

Great work Hatch that is the simple system I was looking for

[wymanwinn]

Hey Wyman, remember my beta setup video I did to test the star automation out with?? - > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6Vhw67Rx3A

Well, got a new video -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90loSqcmneQ

Proof of concept- Master Caster automation using 3 relays. It is setup for 120vac. Still would need a single limit switch and two 120v air switches.
Part # on the relays is Veris VTD2P-F50 - My cost is $70 each. Yes its the same relay I used for the Star Automation but used 3 instead of 2
Air switch - Automation Direct - AVP-31C1-120a - $18 each
Limit switch is from a old float switch.

So total in parts to automate a pneumatic controlled Master Caster would be about $250 not including a enclosure.
Keep in mind this is using a expensive smart relay.
I am sure someone can use cheaper relays that cost $20 each.

VERY nice setup Hatch......very clean and easier to program each step like the star....))))

wyman

[HATCH]

Its a down and dirty way to it. You do not have double tap and it would take another relay if you wanted a delay before it poured lead.
Right now the relay set up dumps lead when you turn it on or when the limit switch is closed.
I haven't hooked it up on a live MC yet but I will in the next couple weeks.
And no I am not switching my setup over to relays

[wymanwinn]

Its a down and dirty way to it. You do not have double tap and it would take another relay if you wanted a delay before it poured lead.
Right now the relay set up dumps lead when you turn it on or when the limit switch is closed.
I haven't hooked it up on a live MC yet but I will in the next couple weeks.
And no I am not switching my setup over to relays

good deal....i am VERY pleased with OUR current setup.....

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

You guys are making some pretty cool stuff there.

[bbqncigars]

Nice setup using old school hardwire programming. I would personally use a PLC from our 'scrap' pile at work, but the vast majority of people out there have no access to such hardware freebies or have the software to program them. A touch screen programmable caster does have a certain allure.

[HATCH]

Initially I chose parts that anyone could buy so anyone could duplicate it. I am happy with it

[jmorris]

Nice setup using old school hardwire programming. I would personally use a PLC from our 'scrap' pile at work, but the vast majority of people out there have no access to such hardware freebies or have the software to program them. A touch screen programmable caster does have a certain allure.

I agree with both. Having people give you free stuff that makes things easy is cool as is building things from "junk" that you already have is cool too.

In the end, all that matters is that it works.

I have made latching relays out of normal DPST relays before, not as easy as just buying one but "cool" to do it if that is all you have.

[Tazza]

That is very cool.

I'm still having issues with mine, yet i have going on 30,000 cast in auto mode. It just has glitches that make it stop mid way through a casting session. Using relays makes it more "basic" and hopefully less likely to have issues, like Jmorris has setup.

[HATCH]

I'm still having issues with mine, yet i have going on 30,000 cast in auto mode. It just has glitches that make it stop mid way through a casting session.

What is your setup?
Is it the Wyman-Hatch setup??

The only issue I run into now is that sometimes the sprue doesn't close all the way requiring the operator to just push the handle to close it.

I am thinking or changing the air cylinder to a non-spring and power open and power close.

This would require some extra programming and a additional air valve.
Basically you wouldn't change your current air setup. You would wire the additional air valve to a open output.
The programming change would run the air valve for one second or until the limit switch closed.
I would use a flow regulator between the air supply and the new valve.

[Tazza]

Hatch - I am using an Arduino to power mine, the same as Kayak1 is using on his setup. I have my air solenoid like Wyman has, but mine had a shorter stroke but larger cylinder, so it sits a little lower to get the full stroke of the mold arm. The lead pour is done with an electric solenoid.

It has limit switches top and bottom so the computer knows where it is.

It cycles well, but some times it does a lead pour and just stops, like the program has crashed. The code is the same as Kayak1 uses without issues, i have even used another board, same issue. I just need to find more time to tinker and see if i can get to the bottom of it.

http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/a...610_153352.jpg

There are more pictures of the progress it has had, plus a few videos.